Track only build - F-Body Road Racing and Autocross Forums

Gents,
So I started a HDPE / Track only / Maybe CMC Build. I’ve been searching on the forums and read multiple build threads and took some notes.

I know it’s probably cheaper to buy a car already done but I do not want the upfront cost and I enjoy going out to my garage and having a beer and tinkering on one of my car.

What I’m starting with is a 1995 LT1 M6 Hard top. It’s a little beat up but it has sub frame connecters, Tubular K-Member, Tubular A-arms, 12 bolt and old Bilstiens and lowering springs, “old needs replaced” ls1 front brakes. I was told the motor has head and cam but needs a lot of work. Has new clutch. Has Canton Oil pan. Be cool radiator. EGR Delete.

My end goal is have a track only car that has all the weight reduction possible without a cage. I would like to build everything under the CMC rules just in case I want to move to the next level later down the road. If that’s the case I’ll then add a cage and other miscellaneous parts to make the car more competitive. First and foremost I want a safe car. I would like to leave the side crash bars for now.

So the car is in a few different stages right now.
Interior is gutted. Most of the brackets are gone, the HVAC is gone, dash and wiring harness is out of the car. Motor and associated front chassis and suspension is out of the car.

I will be building a new wiring harness. (Questions to follow) I’ll post my diagram when I make it to get suggestions.

I’m rebuilding an old LT1 I already owned to put into the car along with a stock K- member and A-arms. I have the block stripped and honed ready for me to put back together in the next few weeks. Rebuilding because I always wanted to rebuild a motor myself. FYI New bearing, rings, pistons and gaskets are already bought. I will be rebuilding my own heads also.

I’ve been compounding a list of items for the car. I won’t be doing all of them right off the bat but as the year goes on I’ll do little things here and there.
front Shocks and Springs
Rear Shocks and springs
Sway bars
front brakes
Rear Brakes
Seats
Belts
dyno tune
Paint car
hood pins
deck pins
Cage
accusump
Heater block off plate
fire system
spherical bearings for front LCA Global west
tow hooks
oil cooler
radiator closeouts
Power steering reservoir
Power steering cooler
catch can
rear-end seals and bearings
steering wheel disconnect
steering wheel
solid motor mounts Moroso MOR-62635
Trans mount Prothane PTP-7-1604-BL
fire suit
Gloves
Shoes
Wheels
Tires
Muffler
Window nets
rollcage padding
Headlight turn signals block off
Brake ducts
interior paint
Line lock
Brake Bias valve
Chin deflector
ARP wheel studs
Transponder
ignition control module
oil filter module Canton 22-570:
Spoiler
Cut off Switch
Battery Box
Battery Relocation Kit
Fuse box
Wiring

Questions
What do you guys recommend to take out of the engine bay while the motor is out?

Steering wheel and quick disconnect. What are you guys using? The part numbers I have found on here so far have been discontinued. I do not want to weld on my column if I don’t have to. I just question the material integrity after I put that much heat on it.

I’m trying to compound a list of electrical accessories that I may need to run. Brake lights, PCM, Gauges, Wipers, Defrost blower of some sort, fans, Line lock, Camera, Datalogger, Transponder, Fuel pump and injectors. Am I missing anything?

What fuse block are do you guys recommend? I thought about reusing the stock ones but I think it will look hillbilly.

What must have am I missing off the list? Also what would you do first to achieve my goal and make a fun HDPE car? (That would get me on the track the soonest.) I know the mechanical. But things I may have missed.

HDPE question. I could contact the great lakes region first but I figured since I’m asking. I know I’ll need an instructor riding with me for HDPE 1. I read somewhere that the safety equipment has to be the same driver and passenger. So should I leave the stock seats and belts for now until I can level up and lose the instructor?

I been thinking about putting C5 brakes on it with Willwood calipers. Ya or nah? This won’t be done at this time.

If I keep stock LS1 front brakes what pads do you recommend? (Track only)

What stock camshaft are you guys running? The only one I seem to find is sealed power # CS1660

If any of you want to add part numbers into the above list that you found works well please feel free.

I am on a budget so I I’m trying to maintain about 2500 to get me on the track initially for this season. Then another 10K next winter if I choose to go to the next level.

While I know 2500 probably will be short.

It won't allow me to upload pics from Photo bucket??

Claytor View Member Profile	Feb 24 2017, 01:38 AM Post #1
newbie Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 19-May 16 Member No.: 223,914	Gents, So I started a HDPE / Track only / Maybe CMC Build. I’ve been searching on the forums and read multiple build threads and took some notes. I know it’s probably cheaper to buy a car already done but I do not want the upfront cost and I enjoy going out to my garage and having a beer and tinkering on one of my car. What I’m starting with is a 1995 LT1 M6 Hard top. It’s a little beat up but it has sub frame connecters, Tubular K-Member, Tubular A-arms, 12 bolt and old Bilstiens and lowering springs, “old needs replaced” ls1 front brakes. I was told the motor has head and cam but needs a lot of work. Has new clutch. Has Canton Oil pan. Be cool radiator. EGR Delete. My end goal is have a track only car that has all the weight reduction possible without a cage. I would like to build everything under the CMC rules just in case I want to move to the next level later down the road. If that’s the case I’ll then add a cage and other miscellaneous parts to make the car more competitive. First and foremost I want a safe car. I would like to leave the side crash bars for now. So the car is in a few different stages right now. Interior is gutted. Most of the brackets are gone, the HVAC is gone, dash and wiring harness is out of the car. Motor and associated front chassis and suspension is out of the car. I will be building a new wiring harness. (Questions to follow) I’ll post my diagram when I make it to get suggestions. I’m rebuilding an old LT1 I already owned to put into the car along with a stock K- member and A-arms. I have the block stripped and honed ready for me to put back together in the next few weeks. Rebuilding because I always wanted to rebuild a motor myself. FYI New bearing, rings, pistons and gaskets are already bought. I will be rebuilding my own heads also. I’ve been compounding a list of items for the car. I won’t be doing all of them right off the bat but as the year goes on I’ll do little things here and there. front Shocks and Springs Rear Shocks and springs Sway bars front brakes Rear Brakes Seats Belts dyno tune Paint car hood pins deck pins Cage accusump Heater block off plate fire system spherical bearings for front LCA Global west tow hooks oil cooler radiator closeouts Power steering reservoir Power steering cooler catch can rear-end seals and bearings steering wheel disconnect steering wheel solid motor mounts Moroso MOR-62635 Trans mount Prothane PTP-7-1604-BL fire suit Gloves Shoes Wheels Tires Muffler Window nets rollcage padding Headlight turn signals block off Brake ducts interior paint Line lock Brake Bias valve Chin deflector ARP wheel studs Transponder ignition control module oil filter module Canton 22-570: Spoiler Cut off Switch Battery Box Battery Relocation Kit Fuse box Wiring Questions What do you guys recommend to take out of the engine bay while the motor is out? Steering wheel and quick disconnect. What are you guys using? The part numbers I have found on here so far have been discontinued. I do not want to weld on my column if I don’t have to. I just question the material integrity after I put that much heat on it. I’m trying to compound a list of electrical accessories that I may need to run. Brake lights, PCM, Gauges, Wipers, Defrost blower of some sort, fans, Line lock, Camera, Datalogger, Transponder, Fuel pump and injectors. Am I missing anything? What fuse block are do you guys recommend? I thought about reusing the stock ones but I think it will look hillbilly. What must have am I missing off the list? Also what would you do first to achieve my goal and make a fun HDPE car? (That would get me on the track the soonest.) I know the mechanical. But things I may have missed. HDPE question. I could contact the great lakes region first but I figured since I’m asking. I know I’ll need an instructor riding with me for HDPE 1. I read somewhere that the safety equipment has to be the same driver and passenger. So should I leave the stock seats and belts for now until I can level up and lose the instructor? I been thinking about putting C5 brakes on it with Willwood calipers. Ya or nah? This won’t be done at this time. If I keep stock LS1 front brakes what pads do you recommend? (Track only) What stock camshaft are you guys running? The only one I seem to find is sealed power # CS1660 If any of you want to add part numbers into the above list that you found works well please feel free. I am on a budget so I I’m trying to maintain about 2500 to get me on the track initially for this season. Then another 10K next winter if I choose to go to the next level. While I know 2500 probably will be short. It won't allow me to upload pics from Photo bucket??

Claytor View Member Profile	Feb 24 2017, 02:14 PM Post #2
newbie Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 19-May 16 Member No.: 223,914	Thank you both for your reply's. The reason why I gutted it and making it a track only car is that I already have another built LT1 camaro that I drive to get ice cream and I typically autocross it once or twice a month. I want a car that I do not care about that I can put on the trailer rag on it and if it gets a little beat up that's okay. I'm far past not keeping the HVAC and stuff in the car. I'll post my wiring diagram this evening and reply back to all of your key points. Thank you for taking the time to help me out. See if this link works: http://s346.photobucket.com/user/cfitzpa17...rt=3&page=1

trackbird View Member Profile	Feb 24 2017, 02:36 PM Post #3
FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196	QUOTE (Claytor @ Feb 24 2017, 09:14 AM) I'm far past not keeping the HVAC and stuff in the car. I'll post my wiring diagram this evening and reply back to all of your key points. Thank you for taking the time to help me out. I guess that ship has sailed. lol. Just be careful with the harness. I started trimming out stuff I didn't need in my 3rd gen and I found out there were some common grounds and such that I may have cut. So, I pulled the entire harness out of the car and bought a Techrods wiring harness and wired the engine and put new Autometer gauges in it. Then I had no headlights, wipers, etc. Now, the car was completely gutted and had no HVAC anyway, but I considered keeping lights for a while longer. Just in case it went to the store and it got dark, etc. I still say that $10k (or $12.5k) will buy you a decent track car. They pop up for sale randomly, but they are out there. Sell this one off in pieces and you may up that figure a bit. It's sooooo much cheaper to start with a "finished" car. It really is. However, if you're determined to do this the hard way (my way?).... I'd fabricate a block off panel for the HVAC stuff for the firewall and seal it up and rivet it in place. Get the engine sorted out, basic suspension freshening (anything that's bad, bushings, etc) and basic suspension tuning. Or, put good shocks and a front sway bar on it and drive it. Add a new PHB to that list and you should be ready to go once the brakes are done. I've spent far too much time working on cars that I should have been driving. So, lets get it back together so you can drive it. Spend the money on seat time and keeping the car reliable.