[SuperCricket]

This is likely a giant shot in the dark, but I thought I would try telling my problems here. I've posted at every other LS1 message board, including LS1tech.com which I was sure would help me out, but to no avail.

The LS1 was running great in the 94 Camaro, until randomly, one day these problems occured.

Symptoms:
- Car will barely start, most of the time afterfires and shoots flames out the exhaust, but wont start up. Sometimes it will not start after 10 minutes of trying, sometimes it will fire right up.

- Tachometer doesn't work (it used to). When you turn they key on, the tach will move up a milimeter from the bottom and sit the entire time.

- *FIXED* Speedometer thinks you are moving. When I let the clutch out after starting the engine, with the tranny in neutral, the speedo goes up to 10 mph. If you rev the engine, it goes up thinking you are moving.

Things we've tried/checked:
- Ground wires on each side of the dash, and by the drivers seat are all good
- Main engine ground strap good
- Smaller 2 grounds on each side of the engine bay are good
- Every fuse inside engine bay and inside cab are good
- Unplugged and plugged back in all transmission wiring connectors
- Unplugged and plugged back in the 3 front and rear ABS sensors
- Unplugged and plugged back in ABS module connector
- Installed new crank position sensor
- Installed new cam position sensor
- Gone through every connector in the entire harness of the car

On LS1tech and everywhere else I received lame responses like (you've got your speedo plugged into your tach!) I don't know anyone else who has transplanted an entire drivetrain into another car and used the stock wiring harness. Seems like most transplants end up with a Painless harness or something else.

At any rate, the blasted car is ready to run... if it would just run. Everything else on the car is ready to let it move and drive!

/Cries for help

[SuperCricket]

Glenn I understand what you are saying, and I wondered about that a long time ago when we originally wired the pump that way. I believe the PCM signals the fuel pump when you first turn the key in order to prime the lines and build up pressure before you try to start the engine. I've had it hooked up this way for about a year now when it was all in the SS and it worked great. I just make sure not to leave the fuel pump running constant while the engine is not running. Also in theory the intank fuel regulator should keep the pressure at the norm no matter how long the fuel pump is running without the engine going... in theory.

Ojust, just about everything that has been mentioned so far has been done before I posted here. The only thing I didn't do was verify the grounds on the back of the drivers side cylinder head, but I checked those yesterday and they looked good.

Before I posted this thread we started from scratch, not one sensor was hooked up to the engine really. This meant no O2, no MAF, no idle air temp sensor, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, fans, coolant temp sensor, etc. The engine exhibited the same characterisics as I am stating now. We hooked things up one by one to see if its behavior changed, but nothing made a difference.

The only sensors I could think of that might control ignition and timing were the crank and cam sensors. Those were replaced one at a time as well. First we replaced the crank sensor above the starter, and it still had hell starting up. After that we did the cam sensor and it had no effect as well.

Also the battery was unplugged during both sensor changes to make sure the computer reset.

We did hook the vacuum gauge up after the cam sensor change to make sure the intake manifold seated properly and we didn't have a leak. It pulled the norm, so that looked ok.

Maybe I should have gone through every single thing I have tried in my original post, but I have the tendency to create large novels. On most other message boards if I go past a paragraph or two I get posts saying "that was too long, didn't want to read" etc.

At any rate, I am working on getting an OBD-II scanner over to the house to see if we can read what codes it has thrown. If my friend can't swing borrowing it, then I might just have to get it onto a trailer and take it to Autozone. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Again to summarize what I did today:
*Started vehicle without MAF and with, no difference in starting or running behavior

*Replaced O2 sensors with spare set. Removed wiring loom and checked original splices, they all looked great. This also had no effect.

I'm just really confused about the no tach issue. Like I originally said, the tachometer needle moves up about 1 milimeter when you first turn the key, and it holds there the entire time.

Anyway, Ojust I fully understand where you are coming from. I am a computer/network technician, and I definately know that while replacing parts all day long until it works may solve the problem, it's hardly the best way to do it. In the case of the car, I suppose diagnosing its woes requires getting a code scanner on it. I'm trying as best I can.

Thanks for all the help!