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LS1 Inside! / Toolbox / Mechanical Engineer ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 5-February 04 From: NJ Member No.: 179 ![]() |
I read somewhere that the Hawker battery can't handle too much heat? Has anybody had problems with battery temperatures when road racing or open tracking? Taking another 17 lbs off the front in addition to the glass hood, gutting, etc would be nice.
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 ![]() |
QUOTE (slowTA @ Oct 1 2005, 17:17) I finally got my Odyssey battery in and it takes longer to start than I would like. It's only been in for the day with 4 starts under it's belt. 2 of the starts were just to see if it would start with no running time to let it charge any. The motor has a history of not wanting to start when hot, but that was solved with a high torque starter. Also, since this is a thirdgen Formula the battery is on the driver's side making the cable fairly long. I run the positive cable across the radiator to a remote solenoid mounted on the frame next to the idler arm, from there I have a cable that runs back to the starter. I know long cables are frowned on, but don't think this case is too bad. Any suggestions? Mine cranks for a little bit too, but nothing crazy. 2-3 seconds max. I still have the standard long cable as well, so you're probably one up on me as far as that goes. Just a word of warning though, I actually killed the battery completely about a month ago because I left the key on for a few days and it drained the battery so bad it wouldn't take a charge. Luckily, I bought mine locally and the store honored the 1-year warrenty. One other suggestion, if you used the bolts that came with the battery, find some way to make a remote positive terminal like newer OEM cars because it's a pain in the ass to get cables on those small bolts if you do kill it. I still haven't made it to the junkyard to pull one, but it's on my to-do list. |
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