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newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 25-December 05 Member No.: 1,023 ![]() |
Hi folks! I was recently bitten by the "Let's build a race car" bug. I'm looking at a 3rd gen that's already gutted. I'm thinking about using a mild 350 (read inexpensive), TH350 trans, stock 9 bolt rear, and focus on suspension and brakes. Since it's already gutted, I was thinking about putting in a weld in roll cage and race seats. It's a T-Top car, would a cage help there? Would there be other issues related to T-Tops I should be concerned about?
It looks like this is the type of forum I was looking for. Are there any links to other build sites or forums where I can find more information on building up a race car? Thanks! |
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#2
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 ![]() |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Dec 28 2005, 18:24) When I did my 5 speed swap in my 3rd gen (which was in 1993 or 94 when it wasn't too common, at least not where I lived), I went to the dealer and ordered everything but the flywheel (found a deal on a GMPP 16 lb unit), the gearbox ($500 from a salvage yard) and the clutch. I had very nearly $2k in my swap (1LE driveshaft, bought new and all the assorted parts). Maybe not quite $2k, but I was something over $1500 total (for a T5 swap.....there were really no T56's yet, at least none that I could afford). Well, I guess it would be pretty easy to go over the $3k mark with a T56. I usually tend to think in my "do it cheap, used is fine" mindset when figuring prices. Now, ordering things new for a car this old doesn't make a whole lot of sense anymore unless it's a wear item or it's broken, especially if it's going to be a track/AX whore. I can see how it would have been important in your application though where it would see street time. As far as a aluminum DS, you can run the same DS that came with the car, so I don't consider that a necessary cost in the swap. Besides, I usually see a deal on a used one every month in the Chicagoland area so I wouldn't price a new one. I've owned 3 in the last year if that says anything. Replace the u-joints and you have a nice shaft for $100-125. Not sure if everywhere is like this, but it's sure nice to prey on the mainliners who are "upgrading" to steel "nitrous" shafts. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 13th July 2025 - 02:26 PM |