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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
The two most common uses for "weld-through" primer seem to be:
1) Protecting things that will sit around for a while before being welded, mainly in construction and manufacturing. For this purpose, consensus seems to be that it's worth the time to go ahead and clean off the primer before welding, and to paint afterward. 2) Protecting metal that will be inaccessible after the weld, such as in auto body work. That's what I'm concerned about - lap joints on the chassis where it won't be possible to completely surround and "seal" the overlap with an unbroken weld bead, or to get the paint where it needs to go afterward. I'm also specifically concerned with mig welding (using 75/25 gas unless that's a problem). The most common type of weld-through primer seems to be the "cold galvanize" zinc-based stuff. From what I can gather, it isn't great to weld through (but I'm not sure if that's a mig-specific statement), the fumes are toxic, and the zinc may weaken the weld. For welds to chassis sheet metal, the weld will probably still be stronger than the surrounding metal, so the weld compromise should be acceptable if it is't too difficult to get passable results. Supposedly, the resistance to saltwater corrosion is pretty good. Aluminum-based primer such as Bloxide will supposedly produce a better weld. The aluminum apparently acts a deoxidizer/flux, and leaves a corrosion-resistant aluminum oxide coating on the bead. However, I've only seen the stuff sold for the purpose of protecting parts for a few months prior to assembly. I don't really care if the surface remains weldable without cleaning long-term, so minor surface corrosion of the aluminum itself is OK. What I don't know about is any long term protection for the underlying steel. I don't know if aluminum provide any galvanic protection, or if it's just a barrier coating. There's also copper-based primer. It seems to be new, and I can't find much information. The only source I've located is in England. Clearly, it's better not to use the weld-through stuff if it can be avoided, but how bad is it? How much protection does it really provide, or does is burn away near the weld to the point that it won't really provide any lasting protection? How hard is it to get decent results welding through the primer? Has anyone tried the aluminum or copper stuff? Is there a US source for the copper if it's even worth trying? Thoughts/experiences? This post has been edited by sgarnett: Mar 9 2006, 03:02 PM |
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Seeking round tuits ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,522 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Kentucky Member No.: 33 ![]() |
Well, cleaning the coating off before I weld kind of defeats the purpose. I want it as intact as possible right up to the weld, because I can't get to it to replace the coating afterward. Failure of the weld itself is a more acceptable risk (in other words, a less critical failure) than corrosion of the sheet metal structure underneath.
I tried some test welds with the U-POL zinc and copper formulas. If anything, the copper was a little harder to weld through; it just didn't feel as "smooth". Copper is also the wrong polarity (relative to steel) for galvanic protection. It's simply a barrier; and once the barrier is breached it may actually promote corrosion. As far as I can tell, the only reason to use copper is it's lower toxicity. I just received a can of the Wurth Alu-Zinc, but haven't tested it yet. Where I live, they've become quite rabid about spraying the ice-preventing salt solution (not actually NaCl, some other salt) on the roads anytime it might get turn cool, so it has become harder to just avoid the salt (and my "beater" truck get shorrible gas mileage and is rusting badly. |
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