[slowcamaro]

Anybody know where I can find one of these? Up here in the hills all the dirt track guys buy them up. So i cant seem to find one.

Im looking for a stock longblock to rebuild for college next semster.

It has to be complete to the heads, i don't need the accessories or the intake/carb.

I live in western maryland. The closer the better as I'll have to borrow a truck or pay for gas which in turn will really cut into my budget.

Thanks

Blyth

[slowcamaro]

Thanks that is something I was curious about. I do plan on aluminum heads..but that depends on how much and how far I have to go to get the block.

[Bilster]

Just a heads up.....400's were used mostly in trucks. Trucks in the 70's and early 80's were second class vehicles and were a brunt of many abuses. Have the seller magnaflux the block with the understanding that you will pay for the check if the block checks out OK. I have had several 400 builds of various kinds and 3 out of the ten were cracked.

A general prep that I have found useful is vat clean and mag. Then I put an old set of freeze plugs in the side water jackets. I fill the water jackets with muratic acid found at pool supply stores and home improvement stores. This removes rust and preps the block for the next stage. I drain the acid, flush and run a solution of water and baking soda to nuetralize the acid. My next stage is to do a "street fill" with Hard Blok water jacket filler. This stiffens the block and will not cause overheating if you purchase the street fill which is premeasured. Then I purchase the Moroso deck stiffeners. They are a threaded plug with a hole in the center for water cooling. I open those holes in the center a bit. Then it's off to the machine shop for decking, boring and what have you. Use head studs as the steam holes on a 400 are very close to the inner bolt holes and they have a tendancy to crack there if head bolts are used instead of studs.