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#21
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
i want to clarify that i no way is Alan at fault w/ this. and its a very minor issue. i'll live w/ them till they expire. Well, If your lap belts are losing tension it isn't a minor issue - could be a serious issue in a wreck. On an aluminum seat, I might put a portapower across the top of the sides and spread it 1/4" - 1/2". Should not affect how your butt or torso is restrained, but enough to get the buckles off the seat. Also - is your antisub adjusted low enough to pull the lap belts down onto the hip girdle, and not up on the belly? It is important that the lap belts stay low on the sturdy hip bone and not ride up into the soft stuff. |
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#22
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 ![]() |
TJ - I did put some 3" clip in tabs in stock after Glenn asked for them - first time I was aware they were made. Your 2" tabs should look like this: Thanks, I'm trying! That's what they look like. It wasn't too hard to weave them, but being a first-timer it took me forever to adjust them to where I wanted them. How would you open up the seat: drill corners for radii, rough cut, file, sand with 100 grit to finish the edges? |
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#23
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
How would you open up the seat: drill corners for radii, rough cut, file, sand with 100 grit to finish the edges? Here is the sub hole on a Kirkey deluxe RR seat - 3.5" wide and 3" fore/aft: Corners are 3/4" radius, with all edges beveled and smooth. (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/bfpics/IMG_1148.JPG) This post has been edited by Blainefab: Apr 1 2011, 08:23 AM |
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#24
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,936 Joined: 26-September 05 From: Youngstown, OH Member No.: 896 ![]() |
Howdy,
I understand now why some have a problem with pulldowns, and others don't - I dug around the shop last night and found these harnesses, and measured the length from outside of buckle on one side to the same spot on the other side. There is a large variation between different harness mfrs on that dimension, ie: Old M&R latch/link: 6.5" Old Pyrotect: 12.5" Old Simpson: 12.5" (these are from my car, with 16" Kirkey) Schroth: 15.5" RCI: 18" (These are 5pt New In Box, Dec 06 tags, for sale, make offer) G-Force SFI: 16" (big driver, big seat) TJ, Glenn - would one of you please measure your G-Force FIA belts? If they are up around 16" it makes sense that they would contact the sides of the seat, while my old Simpsons, at 12.5" would not. I'll CC G-Force on this. This is probably the primary reason, outside of cost, that I like latch & link style belts as compared to camlocks. The latch/link belts (usually) have a very short distance between the left & right adjusters and I never have issues with the sides of the seat. I had a set of G-Force camlocks before and have used other camlocks (all pull down) and it seems like I was always running into the side of the seat with the adjuster. Totally annoying. The latch/link style also tends to have a bigger area under the latch, so it presses into my flabby-ass gut in a nicer manner than the camlocks usually do (though Keith's camlock has a big pad, which looks nice). I've still not found a reason to not use latch/link belts as they're substantially cheaper and also more comfortable to me, but then again I primarily autox. Perhaps there's some safety reason I don't know about. Mark |
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