Silverado Towing Options Options

[jpastorius]

I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with the 6.0 motor. I have been thinking of parting with it for a new Silverado. The truck and my BMW R1150R are my daily means of transportation. The truck also serves to pull the 24' enclosed trailer for the Camaro.

My main gripe with the HD is the ride quality and now the fuel mileage. With a round trip to work at 56 miles, it is getting more and more expensive. I test drove a new 2500HD and it's ride quality was equal or less than that of my 2001 with fresh Bilsteins.
The 1500 I test drove actually had a very nice ride.

My towing days are down to 8-10 times a year as opposed to 3 times a month when I was AX'ing.

I am pondering options with cost being a big factor:

1) The 1500 with the Vortex Max package. It is a $3000 option and the gas mileage is not a whole lot better than the 2500HD I have now. It does come with 4 wheel disk brakes and a 10,000# towing capacity.

2) A regular 1500 with the towing package. This is the most economical option and provides me with decent fuel mileage. The big issue is the 7,000# capacity. With the CMC car, trailer and normal spares, I figure to be right at the limit or slightly above it.

3) Just keep the 2001 and save the money for a 2009 Camaro.

My towing is mostly to VIR (90 minutes) and points that are no more than 5 hours away, all via interstate.

Thoughts...opinions...experience?

[marka]

Howdy,

If you're looking at it strictly financially, I seriously doubt that the better gas mileage of the newer truck will offset the increased cost to get the newer truck. Either way, it should be fairly easy to run some numbers to do a compare.

That totally ignores, of course, if you want a new/different truck for other reasons...

Mark

[roadracetransam]

Keep the 2001.
I had a 2001 GMC Denali, 6.0 liter AWD. We traded it in for a 2006 Suburban 5.3 RWD, looking for a more economical alternative. The 5.3 gets 1MPG more than the 6.0 around town. It is the same on Hwy. While towing an open trailer the MPG is acctualy 3MPG worse than the 6.0. Plus the damn thing is stuggling with the trailer even on the slightest incine. The 6.0 didn't even notice it was towing.
My wife usually drives the SUV around and complains about the lack of power and the governor set to 99MPH.
We regreted many, many times trading in the old SUV.

[CMC #37]

I would buy some Bilsteins for the truck, fix the ride and keep it; I did before my 4800 mile round trip tow to Ohio and was glad I did! I would keep the truck. As Mark says, financially it is not a good idea to sell it now. Save your $ for that 2009 Camaro.

[Rob Hood]

My wife usually drives the SUV around and complains about the lack of power and the governor set to 99MPH.

Now that's a wife! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Keep the '01. Not only will you have another (and probably higher) payment, your insurance will go up too. No sense in raising overhead. Put the $$ into the Camaro and throw 300-400 lbs in the bed for ride quality. Also, reduce your tire pressures by 10-15 lbs if you're running E-rated tires. No need to run max pressure if you're unloaded/not towing.

[fasteddiewick]

Keep the 2001. I have a friend with a 1500 and tow package. Good for towing a motorcycle trailer, but not a 24 ft trailer. You could get by with a slow cruise to the 90 mintue events, but the 5 hour drives would be tough on the truck. Normally, the trannies are weaker/not the same (having blown a couple in the 1500 series) none in the 2500. Save for that 2009 Camaro,
A truck is a truck and meant for work. As said above, cost of payment, insurance and milage difference makes that 2001 look pretty good.
Ed

[AndyJ]

A coupla thoughts here regarding towing with a GM gasser--

I think the market for BIG SUV's and 1/2 ton pickups is going south fast. No one can justify $4/gal for a minimal mileage vehicle that only sees full capacity usage a few times a year..... Buying a new vehicle now of this type will see rapid, faster than light depreciation in the years to come. Will you even be able to give the soccer mom SOB, big truck wannabe away ??

With that said, a real 3/4 ton workhorse truck or SUV with an engine big enough to really snatch a trailer or load down the road always has a market -albeit small- with trades people. Older trucks depreciate down to a certain value and then they level off and hold it -- for years and years. I wish I had the cash to buy *another* 2500 Suburban 4x4 with the 8.1 (no longer made) to just sit it back in the garage until I wore this 2004 out. I just pass the higher fuel costs on to the client.

The advice on the tire pressure is good. E rated 10ply tires at full inflation are rough ridin' bastards. I do 75lbs towing and 40lbs cruising --makes a HUGE difference in ride quality.

Gawd, I am glad I don't have a diesel right now --$3.96/gal in the heart o' Texas vs. $3.12 for regular.

[nape]

I agree with everyone else, a 1500 is not a rig to tow an enclosed trailer. I really wish I could justify a 2500 Suburban with the 8.1L right now but the only thing I really use my tow rig for is towing the race car or if the DD breaks.

[BigEnos]

If you have extra space and want better mileage pick up a decent "beater" to add to the commute mix. Of course, once again you'll have to weigh the gas savings vs. the cost for an econobox/insurance/upkeep.

[marka]

Howdy,

If you have extra space and want better mileage pick up a decent "beater" to add to the commute mix. Of course, once again you'll have to weigh the gas savings vs. the cost for an econobox/insurance/upkeep.

Yep. Last time I ran the numbers on something like that, I could justify a $5k car over five years of fuel bill differences. You've got increased costs in insurance (maintenance should wash, since you're presumably putting miles on one vehicle or the other either way), but you've also got increased "my vehicle just died" insurance by having an extra vehicle available.

Everyone's situation will be different, but when I did that last time the fuel prices weren't near as bad as they are today and I wasn't driving as far as I do today...

Mark

[nape]

Yep. Last time I ran the numbers on something like that, I could justify a $5k car over five years of fuel bill differences. You've got increased costs in insurance (maintenance should wash, since you're presumably putting miles on one vehicle or the other either way), but you've also got increased "my vehicle just died" insurance by having an extra vehicle available.

Everyone's situation will be different, but when I did that last time the fuel prices weren't near as bad as they are today and I wasn't driving as far as I do today...

Mark

That's what I do. I drive 50-70 miles round trip everyday (depending on where I'm working) and my van would cost me $100/week on average while my '97 Saturn beater only costs me $30/week.

That's almost $300/month gas savings and the insurance on it is only like $180/6 months for liability only because of the multi-vehicle discount. Even though I've had to throw tires, clutch, and maintenance at it, the car will pay for itself in 6 months of gas savings. My last beater lasted 3 1/2 years (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[jpastorius]

I am in agreement with the general thoughts. I think I will hold onto the 2500HD, heck it has not given me an ounce of trouble over the past 7 years and 155,000 miles. Plus, the Bilstiens are only 4 months old.

I have started the process of trying to track down a $5000 "beater". Probably going to go with a 2000-2001 Impala. In the mean time, the BMW R1150R is not bad commuter bike. And it gets 47 mpg :-)

Thanks for all the input.