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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 297 Joined: 14-February 04 Member No.: 203 ![]() |
I've already removed the ABS brake unit and AIR pump.
Should I pull the wires from the harness? Or, just cut them off in as far as I feel cumfortable? There's, I'm guessing, about 15-20 lineal feet, I think. Thanks Steve |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
If you cut wires, make sure you insulate the ends so they don't short anything out. I like to slip a piece of heat shrink over the end, heat it, and then pinch the end closed with pliers. This is much cleaner and secure than electrical tape.
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 5,226 Joined: 24-December 03 From: Danville, CA, USA Member No.: 27 ![]() |
To remove from the harness would be better, but who has that much time.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
FOr the most part in the engine compartment, I cut 'em insulated 'em and tucked 'em into the harness... |
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#4
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 40 Joined: 6-January 04 From: Kitchener, ON Member No.: 103 ![]() |
I did the same. Cut them back as far as I could, insulated them, and tucked them into the harness. You do need to be very careful so you don't get a short. I have one which I hope is fixed.
While removing the power window and power door lock wires from the passenger door, I wiggled the harness and suddenly the gauge panel (water temp, oil temp, oil pressure) that was installed by the previous owner, lit up light a Christmas tree. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Not even close to the passenger door! Drained my battery too. Not only have I not driven the car yet ... I can't even fire it up now. I think I've got the panel wiring corrected, just need some juice in the battery. |
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#5
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
My preferred method (I was an avionics technician) is to clip the wire, bend a 180 degree bend in it. Slip heat shrink over that and shrink it. Then, get the large heat shrink with the "glue" (industrial?) inside and shrink that over all the wires that you just cut and wrapped individually. The glue will run out the top, just trim it off and tie it out of the way.
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 ![]() |
The heat shrink with the glue is the only way to go. That stuff rocks. Kevin, your method is much nicer than mine, I may have to steal that.
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#7
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
QUOTE (CMC#5 @ May 13 2004, 07:21 PM) The heat shrink with the glue is the only way to go. That stuff rocks. Kevin, your method is much nicer than mine, I may have to steal that. That's why I like to share. You'd think I used to get paid for this stuff. Not that we cut and tied much (anything) in aircraft. The FAA would go nuts. We usually made new harnesses, but I learned what the "good stuff" was in the process. Doing it my way, the wire is insulated (by being bent and then covered, run the heat shrink past the bare end of course) and then the glue and large heat shrink makes a nice, moderately water proof, way to finish it off. That's why it's my favorite method. Steal away..... |
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