That's not a front hub......, This is a front hub..... Options

[1qwikbird]

In getting my 97 3/4 ton Dodge ready for the coming season I thought I'd do front brakes and that turned into more front end work. But I was amazed at the size of the front hub assemblies. And to think this Timken bearing (8800lb suspension, with the big CTD sitting on top of it) with new studs (8 of them) is only $145 (fleabay), compared to the hubs for our cars which are 1/4 the size and contain 1/6 the material and only last for a few months for $100. I think this hub is about the same size and weight as a diff for a stock 10-bolt.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1qwikbird/3363597393/

Thought it was funny.....

[Eskimo]

and to think, that design wears out in 100k of normal driving, too... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

This post has been edited by Eskimo: Mar 18 2009, 07:59 PM

[1qwikbird]

and to think, that design wears out in 100k of normal driving, too... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Hahahaha, you drive a dodge I guess? Mine's got 207k, so I think I'm doing alright. I figured replace them before they become a problem, especially now that I am towing.

[Eskimo]

I had one... a '98 12v 3500 4wd.. replaced every stinking component in the front end at least once.

[Ojustracing]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

[1qwikbird]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

This post has been edited by 1qwikbird: Mar 19 2009, 01:35 AM

[1qwikbird]

I had one... a '98 12v 3500 4wd.. replaced every stinking component in the front end at least once.

That was the holy grail of trucks. The reliable and robust 12v combined with the updated interior/quad cab.

[Ojustracing]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

[CamaroFS34]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

I usually just put a dab of antiseize on my hubs, where the ABS sensor piece goes through the knuckle. It still takes a couple of whacks with the BFH, but nothing like what you described, John.

[Eskimo]

I had one... a '98 12v 3500 4wd.. replaced every stinking component in the front end at least once.

That was the holy grail of trucks. The reliable and robust 12v combined with the updated interior/quad cab.

Yeah.. I had the biggest love/hate relationship with that truck.. Sold it with 290k on the odo. you can even see the oil stains from a google maps view!

[Ojustracing]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

I usually just put a dab of antiseize on my hubs, where the ABS sensor piece goes through the knuckle. It still takes a couple of whacks with the BFH, but nothing like what you described, John.

I've had 4-5 dodge do this, they chevy are doing it too. All of these trucks had lots of miles and plow trucks. But I have talked to other techs and they have the same problem. We clean the knuckle and never seize. You would crap your pants and how hard we are hitting these things. Me and my other tech are not little. When I mean full power hits I truley mean with all your might. Lately we have had a bunch of rotors that would not come off the hub(rusted at flange) and have had to cut rotors in half to remove from the hub. Hyundai and Ford, and Chevy PU(2500/3500).
I did mention about the trick mentioned and will try it, but we both feel we are going to break something with our past luck. But theres always a first for something.

John

[1qwikbird]

I had one... a '98 12v 3500 4wd.. replaced every stinking component in the front end at least once.

That was the holy grail of trucks. The reliable and robust 12v combined with the updated interior/quad cab.

Yeah.. I had the biggest love/hate relationship with that truck.. Sold it with 290k on the odo. you can even see the oil stains from a google maps view!

I love mine. The simplicity and the mileage are tough to match. I wish my 97 had the updated interior/doors, but I wouldn't change anything else.

[1qwikbird]

You should see what happens to the bearing/rotor when you have to beat the living crap out of it to get it out of the knuckle. Full power swings from a 4lb hammer until you are tired. Then swap mechanics. The rotor breaks into chunnks and normally the bearing splits in half. Gotta love salt!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

Here's a tip, just in case you need to swap the rotor/bearing in the future. Loosen the four bolts that hold hub to the knuckle about half way, then wedge an extension (with socket) on the bolt and the frame/steering knuckle and use the steering to slowly push the bearing out by turning one way then reset and go the other way. Worked like a charm, no fighting, no BFH, no damaged parts. Not my invention, someone on TDR suggested it.

Chris I will look into doing that on the next one I get through the door.

John

I usually just put a dab of antiseize on my hubs, where the ABS sensor piece goes through the knuckle. It still takes a couple of whacks with the BFH, but nothing like what you described, John.

I've had 4-5 dodge do this, they chevy are doing it too. All of these trucks had lots of miles and plow trucks. But I have talked to other techs and they have the same problem. We clean the knuckle and never seize. You would crap your pants and how hard we are hitting these things. Me and my other tech are not little. When I mean full power hits I truley mean with all your might. Lately we have had a bunch of rotors that would not come off the hub(rusted at flange) and have had to cut rotors in half to remove from the hub. Hyundai and Ford, and Chevy PU(2500/3500).
I did mention about the trick mentioned and will try it, but we both feel we are going to break something with our past luck. But theres always a first for something.

John

I live in central NJ so our roads see a decent amount of salt and stuff, but if you concerned wedge between the hub and the frame so you don't stress the knuckle/ujoint/inner seals or anything.

(Careful, this could turn into a dodge forum)