WTB: Headers and Y-pipe, For a 3rd gen Options

[Racing Geek]

I found a cheap 3" fatback that I'll hopefully be picking up sometime next week. However, I'm still looking for some headers and a Y-pipe to complete the exhaust. Im looking for something with 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" primaries, 3" collector, and no AIR tubes. I've only got a 305 now but if everything works out, I'll have a 350 in the car. I figured the 1-3/4" primaries would just allow more room to grow... such as a 383 down the road.

I found a set of SLP 1-3/4" headers and 3" Y-pipe for $300 but was wondering if anyone had anything cheaper.

[Racing Geek]

Bump!

I suppose I can deal with air tubes. The guy still hasn't sold the SLP stuff but I was hoping to have the whole exhaust together for that price.

[trackbird]

Those SLP's were like $679 new and I "think" they are getting pretty rare. I have a set on my car right now (I may pull them and tig the air tube holes shut at some point). I haven't priced them in a while, but that doesn't sound unreasonable for them (they are stainless, but it's a 3 series stainless and they will rust, but not as bad as standard carbon steel).

[Racing Geek]

Yeah I had a feeling that was a good price since they're stainless and everyone always makes it sound like SLP headers are the top of the line (at least on TGO...), but the one downside is a small dent in a primary. The guy says he had to do it to get them installed on the motor. The headers he has don't have any air tubes on them and the Y-pipe already has the 45* bend needed to hook it up to a normal catback for these cars. Money is tight so I'm on the fence about it, and like I posted elsewhere, I'm still not sure what I'm doing with the motor. I guess I'm hoping some new valve seals and a tune up will keep it going at least another season but sticking a 350 in there is tempting.

[trackbird]

I'm betting he dented the primary on the drivers side to clear the steering shaft. The previous owner of my car actually ground down the steering shaft for clearance (brilliant). But one of the tubes sticks back and if you don't lift the engine, it's probably not going to go in there.

They are nice headers, far nicer than the Edelbrocks, but they are pricy.

[dailydriver]

(they are stainless, but it's a 3 series stainless and they will rust, but not as bad as standard carbon steel).

I think you meant to say a 4 series stainless (as in 409).

The 3 series stainless grades (304, 321) are the ones which will not rust, but some think that they are also more brittle in a high heat exhaust app.
Don't know for sure about that one, but it could be likely due to the higher nickel/chromium content (what also makes it shine better).

This is one of the only things I do not like about the current Magnaflow cat-back systems (they are mostly 409 series).
They used to be 304 (I believe).

[trackbird]

(they are stainless, but it's a 3 series stainless and they will rust, but not as bad as standard carbon steel).

I think you meant to say a 4 series stainless (as in 409).

The 3 series stainless grades (304, 321) are the ones which will not rust, but some think that they are also more brittle in a high heat exhaust app.
Don't know for sure about that one, but it could be likely due to the higher nickel/chromium content (what also makes it shine better).

This is one of the only things I do not like about the current Magnaflow cat-back systems (they are mostly 409 series).
They used to be 304 (I believe).

Ah crap. Well, I have a pound of 308L tig rod for the exhaust work that I can't do with that rod on 4 series stainless. I was thinking they were 3 series and I bought tig rod for the job, guess it's a good thing that I hadn't had the time to weld it yet. Oops.

[Blainefab]

SLP has used both 304 and 409 SS - the 304 will stay shiny over time, turns blue where it gets really hot. 409 is similar to what the OEM's use, starts out light brown and ages to dark brown. 308L filler for 304, I have some 409CB that I use on the 409 and OEM stuff.

There are other fillers for mixing different SS grades with mild steel - I've had pretty good luck with Google search strings like 'weld xxx to mild' or just go to the filler metal mfrs or welding forums and they'll have charts.

[StanIROCZ]

And stainless will "sugar" on the back side if it isn't back purged.

[CMC #37]

SLP has used both 304 and 409 SS - the 304 will stay shiny over time, turns blue where it gets really hot. 409 is similar to what the OEM's use, starts out light brown and ages to dark brown. 308L filler for 304, I have some 409CB that I use on the 409 and OEM stuff.

There are other fillers for mixing different SS grades with mild steel - I've had pretty good luck with Google search strings like 'weld xxx to mild' or just go to the filler metal mfrs or welding forums and they'll have charts.

There's a brand new set of SLP 1-3/4" stainless headers at Blaine Fab waiting for my '91 Formula! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[trackbird]

SLP has used both 304 and 409 SS - the 304 will stay shiny over time, turns blue where it gets really hot. 409 is similar to what the OEM's use, starts out light brown and ages to dark brown. 308L filler for 304, I have some 409CB that I use on the 409 and OEM stuff.

There are other fillers for mixing different SS grades with mild steel - I've had pretty good luck with Google search strings like 'weld xxx to mild' or just go to the filler metal mfrs or welding forums and they'll have charts.

Mine are 409 (rusty). I had my welding shop call their supplier and I ordered a pound of 409 CB today. It wasn't too expensive and I can make lots of spare pointers for the JD2 tubing benders angle gauge with the leftovers (once I buy the bender).

[Guest_Max Attack_*]

I have a set of pacesetter longtubes & y-pipe coated with less than 5k miles on them. I will sell for $325.