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#341
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I was reading the rules to have NASCAR type bars on the drivers side if the door is gutted, and if the passenger side door is gutted then "X" bars are required if no passenger seat, if you have a passenger seat then NASCAR type bars will be used. Now the NASCAR type bars must go out to the inner panel of the door to put as much safety distance between you and the bars ( I like to call this entry area and with closed doors I need all the room I can muster to get in through the window!) Is there a requirement like NHRA where you are required to exit the car in 15 seconds in full gear? I did not see any requirements in the CCR's.... The NASA requirement is only that the bars extend into the door cavity - that covers NASCAR style, and also an extended X, and maybe others. Passenger seat being present or not is not in the NASA rules, no impact on the door bar requirements. Yes, exit time is a rule in the NASA CCR, and should be checked when you get your yearly inspection. I do a lot of exit time testing at the track. 16.2.2 Emergency Exit Time The vehicle should be setup to allow drivers to exit the car quickly in an emergency. Drivers should be tested from time to time to ensure that they can meet the specified time for exiting the car in the event of an emergency. The driver must demonstrate the ability to exit their car within ten (10) seconds by opening the door (for cars with doors) or open-top vehicles (e.g. formula / sports racers); and within fifteen (15) seconds by way of the window opening for sedans. Drivers must be wearing all of their required driver's gear and be tightly belted into the driver's seat when the clock starts. Anyone that fails this test may be penalized with penalties ranging from a warning to exclusion from participation until corrections are made. Note- passing the Emergency Exit Time test does in no way guarantee anything, as many different situations may present themselves in a real emergency. The test is an exercise for the driver as well as functioning to demonstrate the ability to exit the vehicle. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Mar 18 2010, 09:29 PM |
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#342
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
but I don't see that in the 2010 Nasa CCR. I found something like that in the SCCA GCR: QUOTE D. SIDE PROTECTION Two side tubes connecting the front and main hoops across both door openings are mandatory. NASCAR-style side protection or one bar bisecting another to form an "X" is permitted. Door side tubes may extend into the front door. In American Sedan, Improved Touring, Showroom Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring the door window glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel, armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed only if the door bars extend into the door cavity. The stock side impact beam and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified unless specifically authorized in the category rules. SCCA, quoted above, is more restrictive regarding the SIB and stuff, so important to target a specific class and review those rules - some will trump the general rules. IMO, an exposed SIB is a liability |
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#343
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
The inverted V is fitted. The 3 bars for the drivers door bars are fitted. The holes are cut through the firewall and the strut tower bars are ready to be notched to fit the dash bar. I'm sure there's more.
There was also a slight bucket fire today when some grinding sparks found that there were still some brake clean vapors in my bucket. I was grinding away and "WHOOMPH". My garage door opener didn't want to open the door (picked a fine time for that). I carried it outside and decided that it was starting to burn pretty good. Since it was full of chemicals and burning fumes, I figured the fire extinguisher was the fastest way to fix the issue (and probably safer than water, which I didn't have handy). So, remember kids, watch what you're grinding on/near and keep those extinguishers fresh and easily accessable. I'm headed out to locate a replacement in a minute (I have a few more in the shop, but I'll go ahead and replace this one now too). Tomorrow we weld! (at least a good portion of it).
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#344
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
my dad was working on a motorcycle today in the shop while I was finishing my exhaust. I was making my last few cuts with the metabo when dad spilled gas all over the floor when he pulled the fuel tank off the bike. I stopped and waited for the fumes to clear (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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#345
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 338 Joined: 31-October 08 From: Milwaukee, WI Member No.: 2,924 ![]() |
That's odd. I was working on my bike today and spilled some gas on the ground. I cleaned it up but apperently not well enough because when I started making sparks in the wheel well of the camaro, the floor started on fire. Being the pyro I am, I just watched it burn out since it was just a small spot about the size of my fist on the concrete.
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#346
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Last week we worked on the floor plates and finished them last weekend. Then last night we did some finish welding on the doors, trimmed up the strut tower bars and the Kirkey race seat came in today (Thanks Alan!!!). We're getting there. One more good night and I think we'll have it wrapped (welded) up, not counting fabbing the seat mount and some of the additional bars. I'm going to add the reinforcements between the cage and body, but I may not get it done for the NFME. That might get started when I return home.
Anyway, here's progress... And Stan... "Ready or not, here I come!!!" (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)
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#347
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
SHIT!
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#348
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Mullet club chairman ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 786 Joined: 25-March 06 From: South Bend IN Member No.: 1,135 ![]() |
SHIT! You better get moving Hoss, he's going to be done before you! LOL (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) |
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#349
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
umm yeah. I need help! TB has good help, I don't! Ok, Oliver (my shop dog) was in the shop with me on Monday, but that don't count.
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#350
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Mollie helped me fit the door bars. Racerdad916 and I have pretty much done the rest. Chris (aircraft fabricator friend) helped with some tube notching and welded my oil cap bung on the valve covers. Rhit RS has been over to assist with a bit of the work as well. I don't have constant help, but I have some really spectacular help when we they have the time!!!
Thanks to all of them!!! Stan, I told you I'd have to come help once I was done... |
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#351
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
Stan, I told you I'd have to come help once I was done... I said 'good' help (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) Bout all you did is drink beer, BS, and break my hammer (all things you are good at) haha kidding kidding (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Let me know when you have time and I'll stock the fridge and plan a project for you to help me with. |
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#352
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 338 Joined: 31-October 08 From: Milwaukee, WI Member No.: 2,924 ![]() |
What?! How do you break a hammer? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_confused.gif)
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#353
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
What?! How do you break a hammer? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_confused.gif) it was a shot filled rubber dead blow hammer that got the end cut up when pounding in an overly tight pilot bearing. It's not completely broke since I still use it but I got to take shots at him whenever I get a chance. |
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#354
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I forgot about the near destruction of a "no longer perfectly good" hammer. Oops... That's really sad since hammers are my favorite tool, I really should treat them better than that. lol
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#355
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I had Alan ship me a quick release for the stock column so I could get the seat in and still get out of the car. I'm still planning a woodward column, but I'm running out of time and money with an event coming up. So, I gutted the stock column and added a very nice quick release. It fits perfectly and without any slop. It also happened to bolt right up to my Grant steering wheel adapter. Here's the pics.
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#356
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Looks good - did you get all the lock stuff out OK?.
I usually trim 1/2" off the edge of the shroud so I don't pinch my fat fingers putting the wheel on. |
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#357
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
All the lock stuff came out with some help from a pair of pliers. I just snapped the "toothed" section that engages the lock and then pulled it out from the bottom after I took the collar off the lower section of the wheel.
I was looking at the spacing once it was together. I suspect that I'll cut a section off as well. It's not needed and I can see me smashing my hand as well. Nothing a sawzall won't fix. |
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#358
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
If you haven't taken care of VATS elswhere, measure the R value of the key pellet, and wire the same value R on the car end of the orange harness.
Also, brake light power is tied thru one of the connectors that you removed - you'll need to jumper a couple of wires together. |
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#359
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
VATS is long gone from my chip (so I should be good there) and I'm going to wire the brake lights from scratch (as well as almost everything else). I'm going to hook up the stock connector to the brake light switch and just wire the brake lights to work.
I wondered about the lights and then decided it wasn't going to matter for me. Good stuff to know in case I ever need the info on another project. Thanks Alan! |
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#360
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
Rear view mirror and brake ducts just arrived via UPS and I should pick up my lexan windshield at Jegs tomorrow.
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