3rd gen parts...lots of 'em (some fit 4th gens too), Reduced some prices 3/30/12 Options

[trackbird]

I have been pricing 1991 Corvettes lately and have seen a few I'd like to buy and drop my engine into. However, that's going to require that I make some room in the garage. My thinking is to strip the current car and sell off the parts, then buy a Corvette. The big question is, can I find a buyer for the bare/mostly bare chassis? And, can I find enough boxes to ship all of this stuff or setup local pick up or delivery (either on my way "somewhere" or to a race event where stuff can travel the rest of the distance with friends, etc)? I hope to start stripping the car fairly soon and put everything in the corner of the garage.

Anyway, it's been so long that I don't even know what some of these parts cost new (or currently), so I picked a few prices based on what I think I remember retail to be (and discounted it). If I'm crazy, let me know. Most things are a little negotiable, combine stuff is even better (like if you want the chassis, brakes, seat, etc...lets talk). If you see something you want and don't like the price, make me an offer.

Prices don't include shipping.



1992 Camaro Z28 chassis. Bare. Includes front fenders, pedals, brake booster, master cylinder, chassis hard brake lines, doors, cage, fuel tank (pump and sending unit), tail lights, rear hatch. I have a clean title in hand for the chassis. You can't have this cage built/installed somewhere for this price.

1750


Disk brake 10 bolt. The axle has the following: 3.73 rear gears, Eaton posi, Moser axles, Aluminum rear support cover, Hawk HPS pads and good rotors. It's a factory rear disk brake axle with all new guts and the PHB bracket welded onto it from an unbalanced engineering PHB relocation kit. (I might even consider parting out the rear if we get that far)

1100 (Sold)


I also have a couple Torsen T2's (4th gen regular torsens) and an Auburn Racers diff (I have no idea what condition the clutches are in). Racerdad916 has his pick of them and the rest will be looking for new homes. Price TBA.


1992 "Chin spoiler" (the part that's always getting damaged under the nose, the lower part of the ground effects kit). Not sure I can ship this one.

100 (these things have been priced far higher than that recently, or...make me an offer)


Jegs switch panel with master switch (and light) and push button start switch. Aluminum panel with 1 3/4" roll cage mounts included.

40 28


T56 transmission (LT1) with bellhousing (fits SBC) (1,200 miles on rebuild by Danny Popp)

1350 This is going to need picked up or shipped on a pallet. Located in Columbus, OH.


Centerforce dual friction clutch with GM flywheel (flywheel fits 1 piece rear main)

325 (Sold)


Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft

225 (Sold)


17" wide Kirkey full containment race seat with cover (mounted and used to drive on and off of a trailer, basically new seat)

700


Grant steering wheel with quick release adapter (The quick release was $100 alone)

125 SOLD


Complete set of autometer Ultra-Lite gauges (10k tach, 200 mph speedo, fuel level, volt meter, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, second oil temp gauge, PLX Technologies M300 Wideband O2 sensor with wiring harness (ready to run/complete). Gauges have about 15 minutes of run time on them (while setting the timing on the engine, all were brand new when the cage went in and it's only been on and off a trailer since then with the exception of the wideband O2, it has about 1k miles on it). If I seperate the gauges:

Fuel level gauge (0-90 ohm GM) 2 2/16" $40
Oil temp gauge electrical 140-300 degrees 2 1/16" $47
Speedometer 200 mph 3 3/8" $205
Wideband $350


Afco custom radiator with internal oil cooler

350 325


3000 cfm electric fan with thermostat (Black Magic extreme, I think)

275 265


Baker Precision power steering cooler

25 (Sold)


Ground control front and rear weight jacks (1000 in lb front springs, 225 in lb rear springs)

375 (Sold)


TransAm style TPI air intake snorkel (makes a 90 degree bend after the throttle body). No air cleaner assembly.

$25 15


Camaro TPI dual intake snorkel and mount from the chassis (where the air filters fit).

$75 40


TPI Camaro K&N filters (2) Good condition.

$45 $25 (Sold)


Front GM "Wonderbar"

$40 (Sold)


35mm Suspension Techniques front sway bar

100 90


OEM 36mm hollow front bar with chassis bushings (and a set of new end links if they'll fit).

45 40


Koni 30 series rear SA shocks (fronts are sold)

200 $175


EB Miller C4HD brake kit front (or I'll keep the rotors, pads and calipers and sell the rest for less if you want to do your own conversion)

750 (Sold)


Hotpart.com swedged chromoly PHB (with good heim joints)

100 (Sold)


Hotpart.com aluminum rear LCA's with (good heim joints)

140 (Sold)


Hotpart.com camber plates

160 (Sold)


Odyssey PC680 MJT battery with post adapters in their aluminum mount

150 (Sold)


Remote master solenoid (250 amp solenoid) and 6 pole master switch

100


Alternator disconnect (250 amp remote solenoid - alternator can't backfeed and keep car running)

65


Remote starter solenoid

10


Waterproof alternator breaker in the rear (100 amp)

38


Waterproof master power breaker in the rear

38


60 amp fuse and fuse holder for 4 ga cable

15


New Harwood lexan windshield (not installed, but fitted)

250 225 (too large to ship, it's a truck freight item and $$$)


SLP 1 3/4" stainless shorty headers

450 (Sold)


"Shorty" exhaust (from the y pipe to a dump at the rear axle) with magnaflow 3"x9" race muffler, pipe and hangar

95 (Sold)


Harwood fiberglass lift off hood with dzus fasteners

220 (Sold)


Adjustable Blainefab 7.5" lexan road race rear spoiler

275 (Sold)


Spare 3rd gen spindles with bearings and rotors (from my 1992 chassis)

100 65


Engine parts have about 1,200 street miles, 40 minutes at Nashville and a few autocross events.

Holley Stealth Ram intake
Holley Stealth Ram fuel rail kit with regulator

These parts:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Weiand/925/7540/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/534-186/10002/-1

$425 plus freight (stealth ram and fuel rails) OBO.


Serpentine belt F-body Underdrive pulleys (2 piece set)

70 (Sold)


Serpentine accessory drive parts including:
105 amp alternator (with Painless harness to effectively make it a 1 wire alternator)
PS pump and pulley
AC and smog pump delete pulleys (Supply a crank pulley and a reverse rotation water pump and you're ready to go)
water pump pulley

175 (Sold)


Techrods speed density TPI engine wiring harness

225 (Sold)


6 OEM wheels. 2 are "crosslace" TA wheels (rears) and 4 Iroc wheels (one has a bit of damage at the bead/lip). The Iroc wheels have 4 have OLD toyo Proxes on them.

[Mojave]

Why not keep the T56 for the C4? What trans would you use? The original ZF? Finding 6 spds is hard, and ZF's are so expensive to rebuild these days (last I checked anyway).

[trackbird]

Why not keep the T56 for the C4? What trans would you use? The original ZF? Finding 6 spds is hard, and ZF's are so expensive to rebuild these days (last I checked anyway).

Will it fit? It seemed that the clutch was a no-go and I didn't think the trans was an easy swap? I might hold onto it if it works without too much difficulty. Is there a write up on the swap?

[Mojave]

Why not keep the T56 for the C4? What trans would you use? The original ZF? Finding 6 spds is hard, and ZF's are so expensive to rebuild these days (last I checked anyway).

Will it fit? It seemed that the clutch was a no-go and I didn't think the trans was an easy swap? I might hold onto it if it works without too much difficulty. Is there a write up on the swap?

The c-beam mount is the hard part. If you can fab that, I don't think there are any other complications. I know there are write ups in the C4 section of Corvette Forum.

[trackbird]

I'll have to do some digging. Driveshaft stays the same?

Thanks!

[Mojave]

I'll have to do some digging. Driveshaft stays the same?

Thanks!

I *think* it stays the same, but I can't remember. The C-beam has to be redrilled like 3/4-1" shorter because the mount is added on, but it's AL so not too hard. You need an LT1 clutch and slave cylinder, but you can use the C4 master.

[Blainefab]

Kevin - If you have to turn the car into cash, parting it out will probably net you more $$ than firesaling the car. I got my bottom line out of my car parting it, and still have the car - and that is a problem. It takes up space my wife would rather put her junk in. Mine has my first cage and most of the sweat equity in the car is fully depreciated, so if it ends up in a crusher it's not a huge deal, but yours represents a lot of recent labor, is well done, and really needs to be on a race track.

The market seems to be waking up, folks are thinking about another season, you might give it a few weeks and a final burst of advertising it as a whole car.

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jan 16 2012, 10:39 AM

[Blainefab]

Why not keep the T56 for the C4? What trans would you use? The original ZF? Finding 6 spds is hard, and ZF's are so expensive to rebuild these days (last I checked anyway).

Will it fit? It seemed that the clutch was a no-go and I didn't think the trans was an easy swap? I might hold onto it if it works without too much difficulty. Is there a write up on the swap?

I put a TKO on a SBC in a 88 Corvette, it used to have the Nash trans. As I recall:

- custom fabbed a Cbeam mount that picked up a couple of case bolts and the trans mount (edit - no TA mount on that one)

- shortened the aluminum driveshaft, local DS shop did it no problem, was not expensive

- trimmed a small portion of the tunnel near the shifter, patched it with aluminum. T56 is similar in bulk to the ZF so there is room.

- custom fabbed a bracket for a CNC clutch slave - it actuated a conventional release lever on a 7 1/4" QM, with the C4 master

- used a (long or short, don't remember which) OEM release lever ball, shimmed a bit

Here's a pic of the BH, dunno what it was from. I think there was an adapter plate between the BH and the trans. The slave bracket is partly visible behind the heat shield.

(IMG:http://www.apcom.com/fbody/blaine/c4drysump/PICT0228.JPG)

This post has been edited by Blainefab: Jan 17 2012, 12:24 AM

[Twin_Turbo]

that bellhousing is a std 3rd gen T5 bellhousing.

The ZF is indeed comparable in size to the T56

LS T56
(IMG:http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imagehosting/24f13032c90855.jpg)

LT T56
(IMG:http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imagehosting/24ecc364679a3a.jpg)


LS T56
(IMG:http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imagehosting/24e07a20a35b23.jpg)

ZF S6-40 & T5
(IMG:http://www.vettemod.com/forum/imagehosting/24e07a397d34d7.jpg)

This post has been edited by Twin_Turbo: Jan 16 2012, 12:22 PM

[trackbird]

Kevin - If you have to turn the car into cash, parting it out will probably net you more $$ than firesaling the car. I got my bottom line out of my car parting it, and still have the car - and that is a problem. It takes up space my wife would rather put her junk in. Mine has my first cage and most of the sweat equity in the car is fully depreciated, so if it ends up in a crusher it's not a huge deal, but yours represents a lot of recent labor, is well done, and really needs to be on a race track.

The market seems to be waking up, folks are thinking about another season, you might give it a few weeks and a final burst of advertising it as a whole car.

I figured I could part most of it and keep the engine for the C4. Or, maybe I can buy the C4, swap in my engine and toss the stock one from the Corvette into the Camaro? That would work ok too. Selling it as a whole (though I do want my engine for the Vette) would be much easier for me and I'd love to see someone using it as intended. If it gets parted out, I was expecting that we would eventually wind up cutting up the cage/chassis and hauling it off for scrap (if it doesn't sell). I'll need the garage for the new car.

I'd love to get a chance to play with this one, but I don't really have the time for events and I no longer seem to enjoy spending whole weekends at the track. I can't seem to decide to dedicate the few dollars I'd need to get it track ready (or I'd have done it by now. It only needs the lexan installed or glass put in and I need a new helmet and would like to put a flat hood on it). I put this post together a few days ago and have been trying to decide if I should post it or not. The GF agrees that I should buy a street car again (she knows I really miss having one...and she'd drive it (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ). I've thought about selling this thing so many times that it seems like the right thing to do. I've really lost interest in motorsports competition. If I get bored, I'll run the Corvette down to an autocross and run E-Mod or something (due to the engine).

I guess I could re-list it without the engine (but with trans, headers, radiator and all. Just drop in your small block and hook up the EFI wiring) and see if it sells.

[slowTA]

Put me down for the weight jacks & springs, and possibly the driveshaft and the camber plates.

[bubba353z]

Dibs on all the serpentine stuff....

[L69-Z28]

Can you send me photos for the AFCO radiator and fans. Any pics of radiator & fans in the car and any additional info. on these two items.
Thanks,

Brian

[trackbird]

Can you send me photos for the AFCO radiator and fans. Any pics of radiator & fans in the car and any additional info. on these two items.
Thanks,

Brian

Radiator pics on post 124, 134, & 141 here:

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...mp;#entry107140


Cooling fan pics here:

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...mp;#entry110911

The fan is the universal version of this one (not the 5.0 Mustang specific version):

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/185/10002/-1

[91CamarosRS]

Lots of great parts but I have no money. Man this stinks

[TPIJAY]

Put me second in line for springs and weight jackers. Might be interested in the power steering cooler. Do you have any pics of the cooler?

Thanks!

[rlewi771]

any pics of the Grant steering wheel? Also, any info on the SLP shorty headers? I searched slp's site and unable to find anything. I have a 350 sbc which i plan to put AFR aluminum heads on, any reason why they wouldn't work? Thanks

edit: nevermind found some in your build thread. Was gutting the column necessary to install the wheel / quick release? Or can I keep everything? Thanks

This post has been edited by rlewi771: Jan 17 2012, 11:23 PM

[trackbird]

any pics of the Grant steering wheel? Also, any info on the SLP shorty headers? I searched slp's site and unable to find anything. I have a 350 sbc which i plan to put AFR aluminum heads on, any reason why they wouldn't work? Thanks

edit: nevermind found some in your build thread. Was gutting the column necessary to install the wheel / quick release? Or can I keep everything? Thanks

You can keep everything, I gutted the stuff I didn't need because it was extra weight and I wasn't using a key. You may wish to trim the "collar" on the column (right behind the quick release) for better clearance to avoid smashing your fingers if you aren't careful. I didn't trim mine and it works just fine, you just have to avoid getting excited installing the wheel or you might wind up with sore fingers. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The headers are out of production (as I remember). It's a set of 1 3/4" shorty headers that come with a y pipe (mine is the dual cat design but it has stainless straight pipe welded in it). There are fittings for the factory air injection and they are stainless headers. They are rare but seem to be fairly sought after because they fit well and they work.

[rlewi771]

any pics of the Grant steering wheel? Also, any info on the SLP shorty headers? I searched slp's site and unable to find anything. I have a 350 sbc which i plan to put AFR aluminum heads on, any reason why they wouldn't work? Thanks

edit: nevermind found some in your build thread. Was gutting the column necessary to install the wheel / quick release? Or can I keep everything? Thanks

You can keep everything, I gutted the stuff I didn't need because it was extra weight and I wasn't using a key. You may wish to trim the "collar" on the column (right behind the quick release) for better clearance to avoid smashing your fingers if you aren't careful. I didn't trim mine and it works just fine, you just have to avoid getting excited installing the wheel or you might wind up with sore fingers. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The headers are out of production (as I remember). It's a set of 1 3/4" shorty headers that come with a y pipe (mine is the dual cat design but it has stainless straight pipe welded in it). There are fittings for the factory air injection and they are stainless headers. They are rare but seem to be fairly sought after because they fit well and they work.

Ok, let me think about the steering wheel, in the mean time any pics of the headers? I wont be running the factory air system so I'm curious about if it can be blocked off/what it will look like if blocked off. Thanks

Ryan

[trackbird]

any pics of the Grant steering wheel? Also, any info on the SLP shorty headers? I searched slp's site and unable to find anything. I have a 350 sbc which i plan to put AFR aluminum heads on, any reason why they wouldn't work? Thanks

edit: nevermind found some in your build thread. Was gutting the column necessary to install the wheel / quick release? Or can I keep everything? Thanks

You can keep everything, I gutted the stuff I didn't need because it was extra weight and I wasn't using a key. You may wish to trim the "collar" on the column (right behind the quick release) for better clearance to avoid smashing your fingers if you aren't careful. I didn't trim mine and it works just fine, you just have to avoid getting excited installing the wheel or you might wind up with sore fingers. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The headers are out of production (as I remember). It's a set of 1 3/4" shorty headers that come with a y pipe (mine is the dual cat design but it has stainless straight pipe welded in it). There are fittings for the factory air injection and they are stainless headers. They are rare but seem to be fairly sought after because they fit well and they work.

Ok, let me think about the steering wheel, in the mean time any pics of the headers? I wont be running the factory air system so I'm curious about if it can be blocked off/what it will look like if blocked off. Thanks

Ryan

It is currently blocked off (the air system) with pipe plugs. I considered cutting the tubes off and taking the tig to the openings...but I never did. I'll try to get some pics soon.