1/2" Wheel spacers. Any problems W/this? Options

[ESPCamaro]

What kind of problems might I have running a wheel spacer that wide?

The wheels would be relying strictly on the lugs for locating.

Or I wonder if I could get a spacer built that has a hub nub that sticks out to act as a wheel pilot.



BTW not sure where this topic would go...

[mitchntx]

With the Prospeed brake kit, a wide spacer, nearing 1/2", is required.

I changed the wheel studs to ARP's ($11 from Jegs) and have had no problems.

Without the hubcentric locator, I have to be careful snugging up the wheel, making sure it gets properly seated.

[ESPCamaro]

Well then that should work OK. Since I know your stuff has been on track I'm sure an autox enviroment will be OK too.

Now all I need are 1/2" spacers, small flares, 335's and a TnT day.

Oh yeah, and money too. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Cal]

You can roll the lip up with a ball bat for more clearance. I've also heard the fender itself can be streched out quite aways without using add-on fender flares. You just have to get the right body shop to do it. Another thing that may help to get more clearance is a bit of negative camber as discused in another thread in the suspension section. The hypotnuse of a triangle is longer than one of it's sides.

[ESPCamaro]

Yeah I may go W/ the beating the piss out of the rear quarters and then having it smoothed out method.
I'll have to shop around for a body shop.
Just don't want to spend alot of money.



The negative camber is out. #1 it's not legal in ESP. #2 losing a T2R because of spline mis-alignment doesn't sound like much fun to me, and it definately wouldn't go over well W/the wife. Both in terms of driving it, and in spending more money.

#3 when you list things like this it kinda seems smart ass-ish even if it's not supposed to. It's not. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[98_1LE]

Are you planning 335's all around, or just in back?

[Cal]

335's are pretty big . . . another option would be mini tubs and setting the wheels farther in instead of farther out.

[sgarnett]

335 and low budget don't seem to go together. I would think smaller tires kept fresh (replaced more often) would work just as well.

Now if you can keep 335s relaced often that's even better, but ouch!

[ESPCamaro]

Are you planning 335's all around, or just in back?

No just the rear.
For a few reasons. #1 I'm using first gear alot more than I used to. 3.06X3.42=alot of torque.
So the extra tread width will help.
#2 Pro Solo's. Folks who haven't done one don't realize how fun this can be.
And the extra width along with sidewall flex will help the launch.
#3 Extra sidewall flex from being mounted on an 11" wheel. Will help the launch, help put power down on course, and have a feeling the rear will be a bit more predictable.

My light wheel purchase includes buying a set of 18x12's for the new V710 315/18's. And then later buy another set of 17x11's for the rear W/335/17's

Temps are not a concern in back for obvious reasons (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Up front ANY thing over a 315 is too big. I'm gonna build some of the relective blankets to keep em'warm.

[ESPCamaro]

335's are pretty big . . . another option would be mini tubs and setting the wheels farther in instead of farther out.

That's the best solution if I were rules exempt. But I gotta work withen ESP rules.

That's one reason why, even independant of tire temps, I wouldn't go to a 335 tire on an autox car. Just to darn wide. These cars are about as wide as anything out there as it is. I don't think in the back the effects are as detrimental, but up front I don't think I would go much wider than I am now. Except when I put 12" wheels up front, which I may still rule out because of the added out-board width.

[bruecksteve]

And I thought you didn't want to spend much money... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Even in a Pro Solo I would think a 335 would still be difficult to warm up. It's usually too long in between runs. The 315's are tough at certain times of the year. We had a cloudy autocross last Sunday and mine took several runs just to get where they needed to be. But hey... it's your money!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[ESPCamaro]

And I thought you didn't want to spend much money... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Even in a Pro Solo I would think a 335 would still be difficult to warm up. It's usually too long in between runs. The 315's are tough at certain times of the year. We had a cloudy autocross last Sunday and mine took several runs just to get where they needed to be. But hey... it's your money!!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Money spent is all relative isn't it? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Actually to TnT the setup I care not to spend a bunch of cash.

In a Pro I think 335's would be NO problem. Remember you get a "burnout box". Put it this way..With Pat co-driving my car, the 315's were SMOKING hot. And we even sprayed them down at one point, ala' Falken AZENIS.

And I think those of us W/315's who don't always have a co-driver (like local events) NEED a set of the reflective tire warmers. I admit that some days they are tough to get warm.

Put it this way 65 degrees plus W/BLANKETS and I am willing to bet big money we're faster on 315's. Below that and it depends. Based on tests I have seen, I think that except in extreme instances the 315 is faster every time.