 WS6 build HPDE and RR |
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 Dec 28 2015, 04:59 PM
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#21
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Experienced Member  Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105  |
QUOTE (MileHighWS6 @ Dec 24 2015, 11:59 AM)  I had seen where a ccm car that was for sale, had won slot of races here locally, was on 750/200 springs Yeah I took a guess at the rear spring rates based on what CMC cars were running. I'm probably going to bring a set of 200# springs with me to the track in case the 250's are too stiff. I've got a stock 21mm rear bar on there now and I'm also going to bring the 19mm with me. |
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Jan 2 2016, 08:36 PM
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#22
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 22-December 15 From: Northern Colorado Member No.: 223,892 |
Ordering konis, springs, and bars on Monday.
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Jan 2 2016, 09:01 PM
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#23
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 739 Joined: 27-June 12 Member No.: 142,453 |
Good starting point. While you are in there, replace any worn out bushings with Moog problem solvers.
But one big thing: BRAKES! Get some fresh rotors if needed, some stainless braided lines, and some track capable pads up front. The most important thing is fluid. You really need some high temp capable racing fluid. Lots use the ATE type 200, I've had great luck with the Motul RBF600. Brakes are the most important part of the car on track, specifically fluid. You can feel pads begin to overheat and fade. If you back off a little the brakes will start to come back. However, if you boil fluid, you will have no brakes at all. You can't feel it coming, they just stop working and won't come back until you bleed some fresh fluid through. With the suspension mods you are doing, and the power even a stock LS1 makes, you will be going pretty quickly on track once you have some seat time. Want to make sure the brakes work well so you stay safe out there. |
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Jan 2 2016, 11:55 PM
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#24
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 22-December 15 From: Northern Colorado Member No.: 223,892 |
Thanks TA
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Jan 3 2016, 12:17 AM
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#25
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,019 Joined: 18-September 04 From: State College, PA Member No.: 462 |
One additional note related to brakes- once the front hubs wear out you can get a good amount of play, and you'll have pad knockback. So practice the pre-brake pedal tap. I don't wanna load you up with too many things, but that can happen. With stock sized (275) tires it won't happen as quickly as say 315's up front. But F-bodies have a way of wearing down hubs (poor factory design), and there are several threads regarding hubs and replacements (I had a near miss on track specifically). So just keep an eye on them.
You could also consider some brake ducts to aid cooling too, in ref to 79/TA's comment. |
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Jan 3 2016, 04:32 PM
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#26
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 14 Joined: 22-December 15 From: Northern Colorado Member No.: 223,892 |
Stainless brake line kit, power flusher, new pads and rotors are on the list as well
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