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#21
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Great job again. That hood is awesome. I hope you sell a bunch of them. Any chance of getting this advertised on some of the big forums such as ls1tech etc? There might be a small market there also. Thanks, #2 from this mold is in process. LS1tech may be next, or Corvetteforum. I'm hesitant to dive into another forum too soon - Wherever I advertise, I want to be a contributor, not just a spammer, and I have to be careful not to overextend myself - I'm already not happy about how long it takes me to get some stuff finished and shipped. This post has been edited by Blainefab: Apr 18 2010, 09:31 AM |
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#22
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 222 Joined: 14-January 07 From: Brunswick, GA Member No.: 1,590 ![]() |
Great job again. That hood is awesome. I hope you sell a bunch of them. Any chance of getting this advertised on some of the big forums such as ls1tech etc? There might be a small market there also. Thanks, #2 from this mold is in process. LS1tech may be next, or Corvetteforum. I'm hesitant to dive into another forum too soon - Wherever I advertise, I want to be a contributor, not just a spammer, and I have to be careful not to overextend myself - I'm already not happy about how long it takes me to get some stuff finished and shipped. The thing with LS1Tech, is there's not a whole lot of "race" stuff going on..well, I guess there is with drag racing. the appearance and detailing guys probably wouldn't be interested, as they'd look at buying the cheap non full CF hoods off ebay. Maybe the drag guys would be interested, some of them have $$ to spend. But not much to speak about for road racing. Everyone (for the most part) who posts in that section posts here as well.. Nice hood btw! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) |
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#23
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,323 Joined: 30-March 06 From: Detroit Suburbs Member No.: 1,144 ![]() |
I shameless plug from a member here might be all it takes.
"check out this awesome hood that this guy in Santa Cruz CA makes. Unbelievable, it only weighs 10 lbs!" <insert link>. |
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#24
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm overstocked on hoods, so offering this one at a steep discount. I built it 2rs ago for a car that was retired, this one was fitted with hood pin scuff plates, and put it storage. It has never been on a car other than for fitting.
It's real carbon fiber twill, with unidirectional carbon ribbon reinforcement on the edges, and has a Nomex honeycomb core. It weighs 9# 13oz with the scuff plates, and is extremely rigid. If you need pins in other locations, it would be easy to fill these holes and drill others. I used an epoxy surface coat, thin enough that the weave pattern of the carbon shows thru - it can be used as is, or primed with a high bulk primer, and painted. Regular price is $1375, this one only $995 plus shipping (truck freight) Built as a race car part with the lightest weight possible, the surface finish is not OEM quality, minor surface defects exist that do not impair its functionality. (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5288.JPG) (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5290.JPG) |
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#25
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 70 Joined: 17-June 12 Member No.: 142,347 ![]() |
I'm overstocked on hoods, so offering this one at a steep discount. I built it 2rs ago for a car that was retired, this one was fitted with hood pin scuff plates, and put it storage. It has never been on a car other than for fitting. It's real carbon fiber twill, with unidirectional carbon ribbon reinforcement on the edges, and has a Nomex honeycomb core. It weighs 9# 13oz with the scuff plates, and is extremely rigid. If you need pins in other locations, it would be easy to fill these holes and drill others. I used an epoxy surface coat, thin enough that the weave pattern of the carbon shows thru - it can be used as is, or primed with a high bulk primer, and painted. Regular price is $1375, this one only $995 plus shipping (truck freight) Built as a race car part with the lightest weight possible, the surface finish is not OEM quality, minor surface defects exist that do not impair its functionality. (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5288.JPG) (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5290.JPG) It looks nice. I have a carbon-fiber hood on my 95 right now. The hood cowl is really wide and stands about 2 1/2 inches high and it kinda makes it hard to see the first 30ft of road in front of you. I would have preferred to have had a stock style CF 93-97 hood instead. This one cost me me over $700, so I aint getting rid of it anytime soon. |
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#26
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 102 Joined: 29-October 10 From: Carson City, MI Member No.: 25,227 ![]() |
PM sent on a TA Hood
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#27
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm overstocked on hoods, so offering this one at a steep discount. I built it 2rs ago for a car that was retired, this one was fitted with hood pin scuff plates, and put it storage. It has never been on a car other than for fitting. It's real carbon fiber twill, with unidirectional carbon ribbon reinforcement on the edges, and has a Nomex honeycomb core. It weighs 9# 13oz with the scuff plates, and is extremely rigid. If you need pins in other locations, it would be easy to fill these holes and drill others. I used an epoxy surface coat, thin enough that the weave pattern of the carbon shows thru - it can be used as is, or primed with a high bulk primer, and painted. Regular price is $1375, this one only $995 plus shipping (truck freight) Built as a race car part with the lightest weight possible, the surface finish is not OEM quality, minor surface defects exist that do not impair its functionality. (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5288.JPG) (IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2012_08_02/IMG_5290.JPG) I still have this hood - good deal for someone. |
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#28
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 739 Joined: 27-June 12 Member No.: 142,453 ![]() |
If this was a flat hood at this price, I would be making my credit card scream right now. Good deal.
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#29
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
If this was a flat hood at this price, I would be making my credit card scream right now. Good deal. I've got molds for the non SS hoods, both LS1 and LT1 CF cloth keeps getting more expensive, but I'm holding my pricing from 2009: Pricing and weights LS1 SS pin on hood 10# $1375 pin on hood with ram air duct 13# $1575 bolt on hood 16# $1775 bolt on hood with ram air duct 18# $1875 Also available: LS1 Z28 (non SS) hood, same construction: pin on hood: 9# $1225 LT1 Z28 (non SS) hood, same construction: pin on hood: 9# $1150 |
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#30
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 11-November 10 Member No.: 27,288 ![]() |
Alan, I'm getting ready to install Aerocatches in my Blaine Fab carbon hood. They require a decent size hole so I'm curious if cutting into the honeycomb area requires any special consideration? I have the top mount because I wanted to avoid having to overlay carbon reinforcing per the AeroCatch instructions. Is it ok to cut the necessary hole and simply bolt these on? Or is it necessary to touch-up/reinforce the exposed honeycomb in some way?
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#31
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Alan, I'm getting ready to install Aerocatches in my Blaine Fab carbon hood. They require a decent size hole so I'm curious if cutting into the honeycomb area requires any special consideration? I have the top mount because I wanted to avoid having to overlay carbon reinforcing per the AeroCatch instructions. Is it ok to cut the necessary hole and simply bolt these on? Or is it necessary to touch-up/reinforce the exposed honeycomb in some way? The top mounts have a flange oround the topside that should be adequate to spread the load enough. Be careful to make the holes only large enough to fit the body of the aerocatch, to maximize support. Also just snug the fasteners - if overtightened the honeycomb could be crushed. As I recall you have an LS1 hood - there is no flat surface on the hood so you'll need to pick spots that have as large a radius curve as possible. With fiberglass I use a hole saw on the round ends, and a cutoff disc to connect, then a drum sander and a flat file to open the hole so the Aerocatch will press in. On the honeycomb structure I would be concerned with tearing the top and bottom layers, and the honeycomb will not support a hole saw pilot. I would consider cutting the hole with a razor knife (X-acto, for ex) instead - sharp blade, steady hand. Mount the bodies first, then mark thru the body to drill for the pins - the Aerocatch are unforgiving of misalignment, get it spot on and they work nice. I did these last month on a VFN piece: (IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-02-21/16-025.JPG) |
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#32
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm overstocked on hoods, so offering this one at a steep discount. I built it 2rs ago for a car that was retired, this one was fitted with hood pin scuff plates, and put it storage. It has never been on a car other than for fitting. It's real carbon fiber twill, with unidirectional carbon ribbon reinforcement on the edges, and has a Nomex honeycomb core. It weighs 9# 13oz with the scuff plates, and is extremely rigid. If you need pins in other locations, it would be easy to fill these holes and drill others. I used an epoxy surface coat, thin enough that the weave pattern of the carbon shows thru - it can be used as is, or primed with a high bulk primer, and painted. Regular price is $1375, this one only $995 plus shipping (truck freight) Built as a race car part with the lightest weight possible, the surface finish is not OEM quality, minor surface defects exist that do not impair its functionality. Still available, still $995 plus shipping. |
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#33
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Can you make LS1 F-body CF hoods (Camaro in my case), with the Aerocatch locking fasteners already installed and matching hardware to connect it to the underhood securing mechanisms? Looking for the absolute easiest design for us to install locally without F'ing something up. Can you do both the Plus Flush version (which attaches above the hood) or the Flush version (which attaches under the hood)? Just researching for now, I'm not on a schedule to buy yet.
http://www.aerocatch.com/plus-flush-v-flush |
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#34
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
Can you make LS1 F-body CF hoods (Camaro in my case), with the Aerocatch locking fasteners already installed and matching hardware to connect it to the underhood securing mechanisms? Looking for the absolute easiest design for us to install locally without F'ing something up. Can you do both the Plus Flush version (which attaches above the hood) or the Flush version (which attaches under the hood)? Just researching for now, I'm not on a schedule to buy yet. http://www.aerocatch.com/plus-flush-v-flush Jim - The PlusFlush will work, flush will not. Install is pretty simple, but placement accuracy is critical. I typically weld a threaded collar to the core support for the pin, but I could fab a nut plate that bolts on to eliminate the need for welding. I still have that pin-on LS1 SS hood, and could lay up the backside and bond so it would be bolt on but you would lose a good chunk of potential weight savings. |
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#35
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I build race cars ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 4,748 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Central coast, CA Member No.: 874 ![]() |
I'm overstocked on hoods, so offering this one at a steep discount. I built it 2rs ago for a car that was retired, this one was fitted with hood pin scuff plates, and put it storage. It has never been on a car other than for fitting. It's real carbon fiber twill, with unidirectional carbon ribbon reinforcement on the edges, and has a Nomex honeycomb core. It weighs 9# 13oz with the scuff plates, and is extremely rigid. If you need pins in other locations, it would be easy to fill these holes and drill others. I used an epoxy surface coat, thin enough that the weave pattern of the carbon shows thru - it can be used as is, or primed with a high bulk primer, and painted. Regular price is $1375, this one only $995 plus shipping (truck freight) Built as a race car part with the lightest weight possible, the surface finish is not OEM quality, minor surface defects exist that do not impair its functionality. Still available, still $995 plus shipping. This hood is SOLD! Yay! |
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#36
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Jim - The PlusFlush will work, flush will not. Install is pretty simple, but placement accuracy is critical. I typically weld a threaded collar to the core support for the pin, but I could fab a nut plate that bolts on to eliminate the need for welding. Would either the threaded collar or the nut plate allow temporary use of the CF hood, then easy re-installation of the stock hood on non-race days? |
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