One More Car Pmt - Mod Money! (long) Options

[JimMueller]

Car will be paid off in two weeks (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) So now I need to come up with a list of inadequacies I still need to resolve on the car. I'm not looking for bling-bling. If it is a true performance part which is kinda bling-bling, I can deal with that.

This is my only car, which I autocross once a month, but never drag race. If I can arrange for the car to be working when they're hosting a DE school at Roebling Road, I'd like to try my hand at RR. Maybe I should buy a inexpensive car so that when something invariable goes awry it'll be easier to get around....nah!

Maybe you all can give me some ideas, here's what I've got. If it's not listed it's probably safe to assume it's never been replaced on the car (100K miles).

Front suspension:
Koni DA's - I never alter the settings because I can't do it easily. Maybe I can get Sean to fabricate me one of his tools (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
Stock springs
Global West UCA's - re-used stock upper balljoint
ST 35mm solid bar w/ poly bushings and upgraded endlinks
Hotchkis STB - more of an ornament, actually
7/32" non-hubcentric wheel spacers
Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS pads, Earl's brake lines, Earl's solo bleeders

Rear Suspension:
Bilstein 3rd gen HD's
Stock springs
Addco 22mm solid bar w/ poly bushings and upgraded endlinks
UE adjustable panhard bar
Powerslot slotted rotors, Haws HPS pads, Earl's brake lines, Earl's solo bleeders

Driveline:
Pro 5.0 shifter
Rebuilt T56 with some upgraded internals from D&D
Latest slave cylinder
Spec stage III clutch assembly
McLeod adjustable master - not totally happy with the pedal height vs. engagement point
Stock steel driveshaft
Stock rear-end with T2R & GM 3.73's

Engine:
Removed both radiator baffles - if I could remember how they went back in they'd already be there (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Hacked airbox for FRA
Upper radiator support with an unused MAFT attached with sealant (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)
FTRA
Whisper Lid
Stock MAF
Stock bellows
Ported truck throttle body
LS6 intake
Stage I ported LS1 heads, circa 1999
CC 26918 valvesprings
Stock retainers
Hardened pushrods
Forged stock ci LS1 block w/ 11.2:1 compression, 228/228 575/575 114LSA cam
ASP non-SFI crank pulley
LS6 PCV conversion and inline filter
TR6 plugs
GMPP ignition wires
Grotyohann 1 3/4" longtubes, with his chitty y-pipe & Car-sound cats
Stock cat-back with cutout

Misc:
Laptop
Autotap
LS1-Edit
Optima redtop battery
SuperBlue ATE brake fluid (how long can this stuff sit on the shelf after opening?)
Castrol German 0w30 oil
I will start using redline PS fluid again when the rack stops leaking (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant2.gif)


That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'll chime in if it's mentioned and I've forgotten it. Things I'm considering in no particular order:

- Repair or replace rack'n'pinion because it's slightly leaking
- Repair A/C
- Replace upper radiator support to get that ugly mess out of the way
- Replace outer tie-rod ends (preventative)
- Replace upper and lower balljoints (preventative)
- Re-install the radiator baffles (hope that will minimize my fluttering hood issue at high speeds)
- Replace front O2's (it's been a few years)
- Repaint hood and front fascia due to rock chips, scrapes, etc.
- Get the rear-end into the rear-end shop to quiet it down
- StopTech Big Brake Kit
- Replace stock cat-back with a used SLP dual/dual (in progress)
- Replace y-pipe & cats (one element is loose) & QTEC electric cutout
- Replace stock torque arm with the UE decoupled version (When are they going to available, Jason!?)
- Install LGM lower control arms (does that come with a new balljoint?)
- Line Lock
- Stock length ARP wheel studs, since I ordered the 2.5" variety and want to use closed lugs again
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Subframe connectors, but undecided on brand/type
- Tubular K-member, but undecided on brand/style
- Better radiator, but not sure which brand/model
- Aftermarket hydraulic lifters, but not sure of brand/model
- Harland Sharp rocker arms
- Patriot Performance Gold dual-spring package (Ti retainers, etc)
- Not sure if I need to do anything with the fuel system
- Aftermarket drivers seat & race harness
- Some sort of adjustable coilover system
- New helmet. Nothing wrong with the old one other than it's an outdated SN95
- UE lower control arms
- UE Panhard rod relocation brackets
- Carbon Fiber driveshaft
- Granatelli 200MPH instrument cluster
- Some sort of PS steering cooler solution
- SLP Grille insert


Hmm, that got pretty long. Good thing I didn't address the engine. Guess I'll budget that out and put food on the back burner (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[GlennCMC70]

- Repair or replace rack'n'pinion because it's slightly leaking.
could be a loose fitting on the hose @ the rack. mine weeped for a few months till i put a wrench on them and snugged them up.

- Re-install the radiator baffles (hope that will minimize my fluttering hood issue at high speeds).
go ahead and reinstall that, but think about removing that rubber seal @ the cowl to help stop the hood from buffeting. mitchntx had the same issue w/ his glass hood and i think that fixed it.

- Repaint hood and front fascia due to rock chips, scrapes, etc.
don't bother if you are planning on getting on the open track. my $3K flame job is all f'ed up from open tracking.

- StopTech Big Brake Kit
good idea for open tracking. nice bling factor too. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

- Install LGM lower control arms (does that come with a new balljoint?)
yes they do. they are moog brand.

- Line Lock
why if you don't drag race? skip this one.

i'll leave some for the others.

[Crazy Canuck]

mine will be paid in 1 week... but who's counting ? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif)

[sgarnett]

Brakes/Springs/Coilovers

If you're going to do the PHR relocation, do it at the same time as the spring change. You will need different spring rates after you drop the PHR, so you might as well do it right the first time.

You will probably need to change the rear shocks for the PHR drop too.

[LT4Firehawk]

Inexpensive truck that can perform as a daily driver/tow vehichle. That way you don't have to worry about your primary transportation being down when you work on it, and you'll have a good tow vehicle (you'll just need a trailer) for when (not if) you get to the point of doing a lot of track days.

[Cal]

Hotchkis STB - more of an ornament, actually

Why do you say it's an ornament? Bad design, or do you feel the car doesn't really need a STB?

Oh and to answer your question, I would go with the coil-overs and springs next.

[JimMueller]

I say the Hotchkis STB is an ornament because I've read that our front suspension doesn't transmit load into the shock towers, so a 2-point mount is moot performance-wise. I have kept it on in the hopes that it might reduce the squeaks and rattles from a high-mileage car. I don't think I have very many, so maybe from that perspective it's not moot.

So get the panhard relocation brackets, adjustable coilover spring system & new rear shocks to go with the relocated panhard bar? What sort of spring & shock rates should I be looking at for that relocation?

- go ahead and reinstall that, but think about removing that rubber seal @ the cowl to help stop the hood from buffeting. mitchntx had the same issue w/ his glass hood and i think that fixed it.
Doesn't that rubber seal perform another function, like keeping water out? I've seen photos of others drilling holes in the back of their hood to let that high-pressure air out...?

- why if you don't drag race? skip this one.
I'm burnout challenged. I figure if I ever feel the need, this just makes it easier. Sure it's a drag racing thing, but it doesn't hurt anything other than the wallet, right?

Inexpensive truck that can perform as a daily driver/tow vehichle. That way you don't have to worry about your primary transportation being down when you work on it, and you'll have a good tow vehicle (you'll just need a trailer) for when (not if) you get to the point of doing a lot of track days.
How big of a truck do I need to pull an F-body & trailer? 3/4 ton?

[sgarnett]

The truck tonnage was debated at length a few months ago.

3/4 ton trucks are lot more rugged than 1/2 ton trucks. They have bigger, beefier brakes, a stiffer frame, and of course beefier springs and shocks. They will control the weight of the trailer better.

A fullsize 1/2 ton will definitely *pull* it, that's not really in dispute. Also, not all 1/2 ton trucks are created equal.

[Cal]

And then there's "heavy duty" 3/4 ton's that have some one-ton truck components like the rear axle. I believe in over-kill (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)