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> For all you problem solvers..., stripped nut in a bad place.
slowTA
post Aug 29 2004, 01:39 AM
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I'm not sure if the 4th gens are this way but 3rd gens have nuts (or something that resembles them) welded to the inside of the frame that hold up the transmission cross member.

Well 2 of mine are stripped, both on the driver's side. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I've thought up some ways of fixing the problem, but I would like some input from clearer heads right now.

FYI, I'm crappy with a welder and the original bolt is M10 x 1.5.
http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/slowTA/tranny_bolts_7

1- Drill and tap to accept a 7/16-14 bolt, I've heard that there is enough material left to do this but it still sounds kinda flakey to me.

2- See number 1 and loctite studs in place instead of bolts.

3- There is a hole in the frame that I might be able to use. I'm thinking of grinding out the nuts out then drilling and tapping a plate of steel. I would use the hole to slip the plate in and line it up, maybe use some double sided tape to hold it in place.

4- See number 3 and use studs instead, I 'should' (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) be able to weld in a bolt.

I've gotten suggestions of cutting open the frame and welding the plate/nuts in... but I'm really against that idea. I know the picture shows the bolts holding everything in, but believe me they are soft and not the right bolts.

Any suggestions?
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GlennCMC70
post Aug 29 2004, 02:08 AM
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try looking for a RIVNUT set. its a long nut thats installed like a rivet.
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trackbird
post Aug 29 2004, 03:49 AM
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On my 3rd gen, I used a few bolts like the Energy suspension trans mount used to bolt to the crossmember. It actually was one of the bolts they sent (since I didn't need them both). I broke my 700-R4 11 times, plus 1 torque converter and a T-5 swap and 3 clutches. I finally wore out the holes in the frame.

My next move was either going to be studs (screw them in and then weld them) or to cut a small hole in the side of the frame, put nuts in there and "rosette" (weld through a hole below the nuts) them in place and then patch the holes. But, the larger, non-metric bolts worked for me. Just go one size up and coarse thread.
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Judd
post Aug 29 2004, 06:43 AM
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I would do #2. Easy, quick and I'm sure that it would be strong enough.
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slowTA
post Aug 29 2004, 12:19 PM
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Thanks for the help.

I like the RIVNUT idea but once I get the nuts out I'm not sure how big the holes are going to be.

Although I would reall like to reinforce that area with a steel plate I kind of dread grinding the nuts out, something tells me I'll wind up with a swiss chease looking frame.

I have a 7/16-14 tap, I just need the hardware before I start drilling. Of course Sears Hardware doesn't open for another 2 hours!! I'll see if they have anything that resembles a stud, if not I'll just grab a set of bolts.

Wish me luck.
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slowTA
post Aug 29 2004, 05:04 PM
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Well I kinda drilled a .375 hole in each nut, I say kinda because the drill went through easier then you would ever imagine. I thought that the hole would be too large for the tap to work, but I tried anyway and the bolts are holding pretty well.

I still think I'm going to get some plate material and weld some studs in, for next time of course.
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sgarnett
post Aug 29 2004, 05:42 PM
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Helicoils?
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slowTA
post Aug 30 2004, 12:18 AM
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QUOTE (sgarnett @ Aug 29 2004, 01:42 PM)
Helicoils?

Couldn't find the right size and of course I don't want to wait. Plus the hardware wasn't even $3, the helicoils would be at least $20. My budget is pretty limited right now.
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