Where to get a decent battery relocation kit Options

[NataSS Inc]

I have been looking around for one for quite a while now but havent found anything that really stood out as a nice kit. Most of it looks like its half assed parts and most of them don't come with all the nessacary parts. Not looking for anything "pretty", just well thought out. Maybe there isnt anything like that for relocation kits and you have to kind of piece it together.

Can anyone point me to a place that has a decent kit? Any help would be appreciated.

[SuperCricket]

I know BMR is sketchy on suspension products for us f-body folks who turn the wheel, but they surely can't mess up a battery box right?

I'm in the process of going through the same thing in my car. I was looking at their trunk mount, since I think it looks better than anything I could make with all the spare metal I have.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/misc.HTM

A friend showed me a good welding shop here where I can get flexible 0 gauge cable. I'm going to run the positive up to the front of the car where the stock cables mounted to the battery. I will put a little distro block like for stereo systems, and will connect the 0 gauge to the stock cables that way. Then I plan to run 0 gauge from the battery to a chassis ground in the trunk somewhere.

I looked at some of the kids from Summit, I just wonder how durable the mounts are. That red top Optima has some weight to it, that's for sure.

[NataSS Inc]

I saw the BMR battery mount and thought about using that. But I don't know if it has room for a sealed box in it or if is only big enough for a battery itself. I don't want to run an exposed battery. I don't have to worry about any extra blocks for stereo or anything. Just getting power to the starter/alternator. I plan on putting a couple of external jump posts under the right rear tail light. Still trying to figure a decent spot for the cutoff though.

[SuperCricket]

Oh I don't have to worry about any extra power for anything either, no radio going in the racecar (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) , but I don't know a good way to attatch the cable from the battery to the stock cables in the front of the car. I saw some people buy a little stereo distribution box and cut the end off the stock cables, then wire it into the dist. box with the cable from the back of the car.

The BMR looks like it's only good if you want to run an exposed battery. This is ok with me since I have a sealed Optima and I'm not trying to be NHRA legal.

I do know one thing, I'll be using 0 gauge for everything. My friend had either 2 or 3 with his old Malibu and had starting and charging problems all the time. He went to 0 and it never happened again. It may be different with the LS1 cars, but I'm not taking a chance.

If you do find a good kit/box/bracket, post it up here too. It will be atleast a month before I'm actually to the point of needing this in my car.

[GlennCMC70]

just a heads up about that BMR battery mount. you can get the same mount from a local dirt track shop (Smileys off of buiss 287) for much less. thats all these "LS1" (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) shops did, was copy what was available cheap and mark it up as an "LS1" parts!

[GlennCMC70]

$20 battery mount!

[NataSS Inc]

was copy what was available cheap and mark it up as an "LS1" parts!

why doesnt that suprise me in the least?

[NataSS Inc]

$20 battery mount!

Your sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.

[GlennCMC70]

i've been called far worst things! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[ESPCamaro]

IMO the Taylor kit that comes with the aluminum box is about the nicest around.

You get Og cable that is really flexable. Screw on terminal ends for the positive cable so you can trim to the length you need an then install. And they are on TIGHT, yet can be removed.

Heavy duty hold downs.

And the box is awesome. Plus if you need to mount a cutoff you could add it right to the box. And then run the handle to the back of the car.
It would have to be a turn on/off, not a push/pull on/off, sinc the box isn't really sturdy.
It's the same kit GMHTP used on their silver LS1 drag car. (I got it before seeing it there (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )

I run the ground to the body in back, and then run the positive through the car, an to the stock distribution block on the fender.

This leaves all the extra wires under the hood, and I do get hard starting. I think a larger wire from the block on the fender to the starter and a larger wire from the block on the fender to the alternater would solve the problem.
I may weight to do that though until I replace the battery with a Hawker lightweight battery.

[Jabberwocky]

I run a small hawker battery, it weighs less than 13lbs. For me, relocating means adding another 2 lbs of hardware and frankly I 'm not sure if it is worth it.

[ESPCamaro]

That's the choice folks have to make.

A small Hawker type battery in the stock location is definately the lightest solution.

My reasoning for doing what I've done.

I've removed weight from the front
I've added weight to the rear.
I've added weight to the passenger side.
And I've still reduced overall weight.

(just not as much as using the small battery in a stock location)

[SuperCricket]

$20 battery mount!

Oh man. I can't believe how many people on LS1tech and other sites were saying how good of a mount that was, when it's just a ripoff! Glenn, you rule, I was about to become one of them.

Smileys isn't too far down the road from me, I'm going to get one of those instead. I'll post back in here after the project is done and let yall know how that mount with the 0 gauge up to the front works out.

Thanks Glenn!

[CMC#5]

For what its worth...
I've seen three batteries fail in road race cars. I mean, the battery case cracked and started spewing acid all over the place. If you mount your battery anywhere inside the car, do yourself a favor and get an enclosed battery box to keep the acid spewing in check even if you arent forced to by rules (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I bought a box, mounts, wires, everything needed to relocate my battery at AutoZone for much less than any complete "kit" I could find online, plus I didn't have to wait for delivery. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[NataSS Inc]

i put a post in the Moderator forum showing both the BMR link and the smithy's one. There is a 300% mark up between the 2. Cant wait to see the field day they have with that one.

[rmackintosh]

I agree with Al....every kit I have seen has a huge markup, and has parts that I couldn't wouldn't use.....so the kit ends up being a waste of $$....by pieces that fit your custom install and you will be ahead.....or just fab it all up like I ended up doing....

[92Voodoo]

If you're looking quality stuff to do it right check out the following:

Wiring: Mad Enterprises
Website not too great but the owner Mark knows his craft and a nice guy too. Helped me design a system that was rock solid and reasonably priced.

Light weight sealed box: Moroso Battery Box

Trackbird helped me wire it up. Ok, I'll admit that he did most of the work as I was afraid to let the magic smoke out of the system. Worked on the first turn of the key and too pretty to be in a race car.

P.S. Thanks Trackbird for the Foxy label. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

This post has been edited by 92Voodoo: Oct 7 2004, 12:07 AM

[trackbird]

If you're looking quality stuff to do it right check out the following:

Wiring:  Mad Enterprises 
Website not too great but the owner Mark knows his craft and a nice guy too.  Helped me design a system that was rock solid and reasonably priced.

Light weight sealed box: Moroso Battery Box

Trackbird helped me wire it up.  Ok, I'll admit that he did most of the work as I was afraid to let the magic smoke out of the system.  Worked on the first turn of the key and too pretty to be in a race car.

P.S. Thanks  Trackbird for the Foxy label.  (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

He's with me..... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

The MAD kit worked quite well and worked far better than what was in his car before. The wiring diagram was drawn on a cocktail napkin (nearly so) and was hard to follow, but I've heard that they have fixed that in the new kits (we did an "early" one). You might look them up.