Anyone put a pedal box in thier late model? Options

[NataSS Inc]

I have been kicking around the idea of putting a pedal box in the SS. I have been looking into alot of the Tilton assembly's.

Here are the 2 that I am kicking around.

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?pa...list2&id=4&m=b#
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?pa...list2&id=8&m=b#

[John_D.]

So does this thing let you modulate the front and rear brakes separately?

And even brake more on one side than the other??

That would be a pretty cool thing for trailbraking, once you got the hang of it....

Don't know if I could manage 3 brake pedals in a manual tranny car though!!
That would be 5 pedals in all. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[trackbird]

Nope. One is a clutch. One is a brake (hooked to two master cylinders with a "balance bar" to adjust bias) and one is a throttle. It's a normal configuration, but you can kill off the ABS and such and it's light and tidy.

[AllZWay]

My dirt track car has a similiar Willwood setup with dual master cylinders and a brake bias bar.

I will be adding brake bias guages this winter.

It is difficult to know how much a turn on the bar changes the brake bias or where a setup you like is for next time.

[steve-d]

Such a set-up also allows for selection of differing diameter Master cylinder bore.


Tilton

74-Series Master Cylinder Kits
Features:
- Aluminum cylinder: anodized for wear and corrosion resistance
- Push rod stroke: 1.1" max
- Mounting options: flange or side
- Outlet ports: dual, AN-3 (3/8"-24)
- Reservoir cap: newly improved screw-type with seal & baffle
- Fittings: 3/16" inverted flare & AN-3 included
- Cylinder weight: .94 lbs (depend on bore size)
- Body length: 5.6" (mounting flange-to-outlet port)


- Bore sizes: 5/8", 7/10", 3/4" 13/16", 7/8", 15/16", 1", 1 1/8"


- Kit configurations: Universal, Small Reservoir, Medium Reservoir, Large Reservoir




Steve

[steve-d]

I betcha Sam S can get these parts for you. I think he can do about anything!!

Steve

[Louis]

Complete waste of time IMO for your car boyce.


Last time I checked, top speed runs don't require brakes much (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

[NataSS Inc]

Complete waste of time IMO for your car boyce.


Last time I checked, top speed runs don't require brakes much (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

True but the car does see lapping days.

[Louis]

The time, investement, monetary and time wise, and potential for a gain is so slim.

Sure you can adjust your masters, and balance bar, and bias. That can work against you if you do not know exactly what you are doing.

The pedals are close to 300? Then you have the custom throttle cable. What about all the AN fittings and flaring? Tube nuts and sleeves. Bending the brake lines. Remote resivoirs? Well, thats going to force you to make a bracket. They do leak a little. residual valves, proportioning valves. Adel clamps all over the place. Bulkhead fitttings.

Take that time and investment and go to a drivers school. you will go much faster per dollar than getting a new pedal setup.

And I wont worry about you going off in the Big Bend open road race because of a cracked flare you didnt catch, and land it on the lid.

[NataSS Inc]

And I wont worry about you going off in the Big Bend open road race because of a cracked flare you didnt catch, and land it on the lid.

Since you will be navigating for me at that event, you'll be there to double check all those fittings for me (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)