Paging Randy McIntosh Options

[dregsz]

Hi Randy,
Alan mentioned that you have a Quartermaster or Tilton style clutch in your 4th gen.

I'm looking at swapping the vette over to a QM 7.25 3 disc cclutch and Hydrolic TO bearing and wanted to know about drivability issues with this set up.

1st, are you using a T56?
is that a syncro tranny and how does your tranny handle the shock?
I assume you use solid discs which are harder on a sychronos tranny then sprung discs.
So I'm worried about that issue.

and How has your driving style changed to get around the paddock and on and off the trailer without constant wheelspin??

Any other issues to tell me?

Thanks
Evan

[rmackintosh]

Hi Randy,
Alan mentioned that you have a Quartermaster or Tilton style clutch in your 4th gen.

I'm looking at swapping the vette over to a QM 7.25 3 disc cclutch and Hydrolic TO bearing and wanted to know about drivability issues with this set up.

1st, are you using a T56?
is that a syncro tranny and how does your tranny handle the shock?
I assume you use solid discs which are harder on a sychronos tranny then sprung discs.
So I'm worried about that issue.

and How has your driving style changed to get around the paddock and on and off the trailer without constant wheelspin??

Any other issues to tell me?

Thanks
Evan

Hey Alan...

I have the Quartermaster Triple 5.5 set up that was on Lou Gigliotti's old WC Camaro....I use a T56 that I had rebuilt with the Viper internals, but the guy I bought it from was using a stock T56....I LOVE THE CLUTCH....on the track it grabs INSTANTLY and is not too noticable other than that....

Around the pits is another story....it is IN or OUT.....nothing in between....took a while to get used to, and I looked stupid driving around a few times... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif) ...and I would CERTAINLY not suggest driving it up the trailer unless you are good and lining her up and driving on in ONE SHOT....NO SLIPPING the clutch...that kills it fast...

I bought it from Richard Pryor down your way....he had it in his rental Camaro and was tired of putting new discs in it because his customers would slip the clutch too much in the pits....there is an art to it...

Since I had an older unit, I had to machine quite a few parts/spacers to get it to work.....I have a "generic" button flywheel that required me to work to get the spacing down just right...which is ALL you really need to do....I use the stock clutch slave cylinder as well......I called Quartermaster when setting it up however, and they have a new button flywheel designed for the T56....I just didn't want to spend the $$$ after having one already...and they would have machined me the correct spacers as well...I just had the clutch "on the cheap" and wanted to make it work rather than buy all the RIGHT parts....If you call Quartermaster, they were VERY helpful, and talked me through the whole thing...Richard didn't know too much about the nuts and bolts of the thing...

Good luck...let me know if you need more info...

[Jon A]

Thanks
Evan

Hey Alan...

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

[ESPCamaro]

[quote=rmackintosh,Mar 5 2005, 01:19 AM]

Thanks
Evan [/quote]



I use the stock clutch slave cylinder as well......I called Quartermaster when setting it up however, and they have a new button flywheel designed for the T56....

[/quote]

Randy I thought you had to dump all the stock hydraulics?

The flywheel for a T-56 should simplify things.


Based on what you know after installing that clutch, tell me. Can I install a 7.25 or 5.5" clutch and keep all the stock hydraulics? Basically only making a T/O bearing change.

[dregsz]

I'm thinking with a hydrolic Throw out bearing there will be no clutch slippage, just in or out.
Thanks
Evan

[rmackintosh]

Thanks
Evan

Hey Alan...

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

..yeah....whoops....thanks Jack....you are now my SPELL CHECKER along with testing my set ups....

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

[rmackintosh]

[quote=ESPCamaro,Mar 5 2005, 05:33 AM] [quote=rmackintosh,Mar 5 2005, 01:19 AM]

Thanks
Evan [/quote]



I use the stock clutch slave cylinder as well......I called Quartermaster when setting it up however, and they have a new button flywheel designed for the T56....

[/quote]

Randy I thought you had to dump all the stock hydraulics?

The flywheel for a T-56 should simplify things.


Based on what you know after installing that clutch, tell me. Can I install a 7.25 or 5.5" clutch and keep all the stock hydraulics? Basically only making a T/O bearing change. [/quote]
Hey Evan and Lonnie....

I use the STOCK slave cylinder mounted on the firewall....there was a braided steel line running from that to the stock clutch....I CUT INTO THAT LINE and put a -3 AN fitting....if I remember ( might have been a -4)....from there I ran more -3 line into the bell housing and into the Quartermaster QM-1 Hydrolic TO bearing.....

There is also a bleed port on the QM-1 that UNLESS you want to remove the tranny every time you need to bleed the hydrolic lines....I ran another -3 line from the port up along the firewall to the area around the resevior....and put a bleed fitting on the end for that purpose....

Lonnie...to my knowledge, you would need the QM-1 to do the job....about a $230 throw out bearing....the rest is hooking it up to the stock slave cylinder and getting proper bell housing to clutch clearance.......

not too hard if you had the proper parts I did not have...

[Jon A]

you are now my SPELL CHECKER along with testing my set ups....

I'm always happy to help, Richard.

[nape]

Bringing an old thread back from the dead for it's good tech content.

Randy, did you have to make a pedal stop for the clutch pedal or do you just use it like normal? It says something about making a pedal stop with circle track pedals, but I couldn't get those to fit.

Thanks again!

[rmackintosh]

Bringing an old thread back from the dead for it's good tech content.

Randy, did you have to make a pedal stop for the clutch pedal or do you just use it like normal? It says something about making a pedal stop with circle track pedals, but I couldn't get those to fit.

Thanks again!

I did NOT make a stop pedal and use all stock before the bell housing. HOWEVER, after 4 years of use the TO blew out pretty bad the last race, and after playing with it that weekend, I was thinking the lack of a stop had something to do with it.....probably not, since it seemed to be an O ring failure due to using Motul in the master cylinder....many QM folks told me using "good" fluid with the TO was bad for the seals....even saying the second the fluid touched the seals they would be toast.

I am adding some kind of stop while the car is in the shop this time....

[nape]

I did NOT make a stop pedal and use all stock before the bell housing. HOWEVER, after 4 years of use the TO blew out pretty bad the last race, and after playing with it that weekend, I was thinking the lack of a stop had something to do with it.....probably not, since it seemed to be an O ring failure due to using Motul in the master cylinder....many QM folks told me using "good" fluid with the TO was bad for the seals....even saying the second the fluid touched the seals they would be toast.

I am adding some kind of stop while the car is in the shop this time....

How's that for timing! I love this place. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)