adjustable clutch master cyl. LT1 Options

[#07]

I need names on a good adjustable master cylinders for my 94 Z28. Is there one by chance that is the master and slave as a kit? Or do I need to get a OE slave seperate? Or should I just go OE for both?

Just want to see what has the best track record so to say.Or the one that is most widely used.

Do I need one? I figure since I am changing it regardless I might as well get an adjustable one right? wrong?

[firehawkclone]

Im pretty sure that Mcleod make's one for lt1 and it's all steel slave, and i've read that people that have it have mixed feelings. Oe is cheaper

[#07]

Ok thats a start thanks.
AND ooopps might mention spec stage 3 clutch disk and pressure plate with a spec aluminum flywheel being used.

[Tony99SS]

I've been through two Mcleod MCs (purchased by POs) on two different F-bods with three different clutch packages:

Mcleod Twin Disk (gleefully replaced),

Centerforce Dual Friction (great action but so-so holding on modded LS1),

Spec Stage 3 (best of them all for grip and durability with good modulation over a slightly too-narrow take-up)

Both these Mcleod MCs were replaced with OE or modded OE
MCs due to either leaking (one even after a careful rebuild) or a combination of bleeding off and sticking.

These parts APPEAR to be of high quality, with the Tilton name cast in the shiny metal body, but I found neither one worth even keeping around as spares. I ended up pulling one off my wrecked 99 to replace the one in the 98, resulting in a DECREASE in pedal effort and ending my bleeding-off-at traffic-signals issues.

I still have to adjust the take-up range somehow to get it a few inches closer to the floorboard, but even as-is the OE part is tons more livable than the mcleod.

Tony

[#07]

unf*#!ingbelieevable! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)


Thanks Tone and our 'resident safety worker' John for some feedback.

[JKnight]

I just broke the clutch slave cylinder on the wife's car and got a stock replacement system (quite nice of them to make me replace the entire system), and am having trouble removing the part that goes through the firewall and clips onto the clutch pedal. Did some race car yoga to get the two nuts off that hold that thing in place, but I'm finding that I can't pull it out from the other side. There's some metal piece on top of it, and I can't see it well enough to figure out the "trick" to getting the part removed. Anyone been in there and know what I need to do? I could take off the brake booster, but that's a bit of a pain just to be able to see in there.

I'll get this damn thing running yet!

Thanks!

Jason

[v7guy]

If I remember right, there is a stubborn C clip in there that needs removed

[Jeff94TA]

There's some metal piece on top of it, and I can't see it well enough to figure out the "trick" to getting the part removed. Anyone been in there and know what I need to do?

That's a U bolt and is what the two nuts threaded on to inside the car. You should be able to pull the U bolt straight out and then the clutch master should slip out easily. I do know how much of a PIA it is to work in that tight space though. Good luck with it.

[#07]

There's some metal piece on top of it, and I can't see it well enough to figure out the "trick" to getting the part removed.  Anyone been in there and know what I need to do?

That's a U bolt and is what the two nuts threaded on to inside the car. You should be able to pull the U bolt straight out and then the clutch master should slip out easily. I do know how much of a PIA it is to work in that tight space though. Good luck with it.

That about sums that up. Much easier when the motors out. Jeff94ta you replaced with an OE unit?

Mike the master and slave come as a unit I see. I like that. Prebled? Honestly I would rather get the OE replacement. I never had issues with the old one just want all new something in there (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

The only real question is. That I have seen some say they could only get thier upgraded clutch to work right with an adjustable MC. But I think most I have seen were 98+ cars.

But with a adjustable one I can always keep my engagment where I want it right? No matter how worn the clutch disk is?

Mcloed thats it!

[Jeff94TA]

That about sums that up. Much easier when the motors out. Jeff94ta you replaced with an OE unit?

I convered my car from an A4 to T56 back in December and yes I went with the OE setup. I used the junk yard setup that had 56,000 miles on it and it worked great. That is of course until I realized that the input shaft seal is leaking and oiling down my new clutch. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) But that is another situation all together. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[JKnight]

There was indeed a clip against the firewall in the cockpit that was holding the inward bolt in place. Nothing a bunch of socket extensions and a BFH couldn't handle. Norked the ubolt a little, but I don't think I'm going to put the u bolt back in anyhow. I'll just use regular ol' nuts and bolts and some loctite. This is not a part I'm plannig on touching again (knock on wood).

Jason