 It was a bad weekend! |
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 May 25 2005, 01:20 PM
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#21
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Veteran Member  Group: Member Posts: 2,688 Joined: 23-December 03 From: Ft Worth, TX Member No.: 8  |
well i use M1 15-50. it saw 250-300+ all weekend w/ 250+ water temp all weekend. the oil still looks new. so new i can still barely read it on the stick. i'll stick w/ M1 for the availability @ your closest wal-mart or parts store. i have no problem w/ RP but the lack of it being commonly available.
i think 0-40 was you 2nd problem w/ the first being $70 ARP rod bolts not being used. i'll upgrade bolts before rods any day. |
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May 25 2005, 03:05 PM
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#22
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 647 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Paris, Texas Member No.: 74 |
QUOTE (Glenn98ZM6 @ May 25 2005, 07:20) i'll upgrade bolts before rods any day. In our dirt track motors that run 6500-7500 rpms for extended periods are for the most part stock rod motors with just arp bolts. The bolts are pretty important to the longevity of a stock rod motor. |
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May 29 2005, 03:14 AM
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#23
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
Well it's taken me a week to jack the car up to get pic's (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/whip.gif) been working ALOT (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)
Look's like at least 3 rod's went through the pan, some cap's and one rod broke in the middle (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) enjoy http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00638.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00637.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00636.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00632.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00635.jpg |
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May 29 2005, 08:54 AM
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#24
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Veteran Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 |
Ouch, that's rough.
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Jun 3 2005, 08:13 PM
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#25
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Advanced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 902 Joined: 27-January 04 From: Magnolia, Tx. Member No.: 160 |
Sorry to hear this man. You'll get it back though. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Jun 26 2005, 03:24 PM
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#26
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
Well here's some pic's of the BAD and the BETTER (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The bad! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00690.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00698.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00700.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00701.jpg The better! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00692.jpg And part's for sale (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00693.jpg |
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Jun 26 2005, 05:02 PM
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#27
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
John,
Looking through this wreckage: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00690.jpg Every rod bolt I can see is still intact and attached to a portion of the rod (but I'm guessing they are not all there in that picture). Did you find any bolts that were broken? Or, 1/2 of the cap without the matching section of rod? Also, the "body" of that rod (the center) looks blue on the bottom, as if it spun a bearing and heated the rod. I don't think I've ever seen one get hot enough to fail without breaking the bolts, but it's interesting to see the coloring on the lower section of the beam. If a bolt didn't break, I'm guessing you pulled a rod apart under compression braking when the crank runs it up the bore with little compression (because the throttle is closed or it's on the exhaust stroke) to slow it down and no positive pressure to help it change direction, the rod can be pulled apart. I just wondered if we could determine which failure it was. |
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Jun 26 2005, 05:22 PM
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#28
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jun 26 2005, 11:02) John, Looking through this wreckage: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00690.jpg Every rod bolt I can see is still intact and attached to a portion of the rod (but I'm guessing they are not all there in that picture). Did you find any bolts that were broken? Or, 1/2 of the cap without the matching section of rod? Also, the "body" of that rod (the center) looks blue on the bottom, as if it spun a bearing and heated the rod. I don't think I've ever seen one get hot enough to fail without breaking the bolts, but it's interesting to see the coloring on the lower section of the beam. If a bolt didn't break, I'm guessing you pulled a rod apart under compression braking when the crank runs it up the bore with little compression (because the throttle is closed or it's on the exhaust stroke) to slow it down and no positive pressure to help it change direction, the rod can be pulled apart. I just wondered if we could determine which failure it was. I pulled some stuff out of the pan, on a side note all of this was in the pan(except for 2 piece's) when i dropped it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00708.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00706.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/fir...ne/DSC00707.jpg |
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Jun 26 2005, 07:02 PM
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#29
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
I do see one in the top two pics that snapped (rod bolt). So, maybe that was the failure. I questioned it because most of the broken rod parts were still bolted together (and not attached to much else). But, there is one....which is all that's needed.
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Jun 26 2005, 09:53 PM
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#30
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
Can you change the rod bolt's on a motor without tearing the motor apart?
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Jun 26 2005, 10:02 PM
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#31
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,015 Joined: 28-December 03 From: Texas Member No.: 55 |
I know it can be done in an LS1, but if it has many miles, I would probably take the time to put bearings in it at the same time, which should be done out of the car.
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Jun 27 2005, 12:17 AM
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#32
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FRRAX Owner/Admin Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 |
If they are pressed in bolts (SBC/LT1) you should resize the rods and they must come out. If they are threaded into the rod (from the bottom) and use no nut you should be ok (if you can get to them).
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Jun 27 2005, 12:30 AM
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#33
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
Well that solve's that!
Well i'll throw the motor in and beat the crap out of it (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) This post has been edited by firehawkclone: Jun 27 2005, 12:31 AM |
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Jul 16 2005, 03:41 AM
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#34
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
IT'S ALIVE :drive: the motor that is. I am dead tired!
Fired right up......than died (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) becuase of no fuel in the rails. but I turned it over again and it fired right up with instant oil pressure (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) and ran it for 10mins. Time to put on the hood and nose and tiddy up (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) DISASTER! leaking oil out the back of the intake (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) This post has been edited by firehawkclone: Jul 16 2005, 04:41 AM |
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Jul 16 2005, 12:47 PM
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#35
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Experienced Member Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,289 Joined: 4-May 04 From: Kenvil, NJ Member No.: 331 |
It's always something. Last time I built a motor it started leaking from the back of the motor while I was priming the pump. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant.gif) You'll get it taken care of... eventually.
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Jul 16 2005, 05:18 PM
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#36
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Grumpy Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,722 Joined: 1-January 04 From: Bakersfield CA Member No.: 81 |
QUOTE (slowTA @ Jul 16 2005, 06:47) It's always something. Last time I built a motor it started leaking from the back of the motor while I was priming the pump. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rant.gif) You'll get it taken care of... eventually. TODAY! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) |
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