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> The new to me 2002 Z28 (convertible)
slowTA
post Dec 31 2019, 12:32 PM
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CAM doesn't require a roll bar... unless the safety section they reference requires it for open cars, which I don't have time to read right now.

https://www.scca.com/downloads/48152-2020-c...-11-26/download
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BumpaD_Z28
post Dec 31 2019, 05:32 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Dec 30 2019, 07:25 PM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jan 27 2017, 09:35 AM) *
At one point I gave the cost breakdown to that point. I guess I'll try to update it here (I probably don't want to know).

I was trying to keep this sane and stay accountable, so I'll update the totals for those who are following along (it's worse than I realized...but it always is):

$11,500 - Car
$199 - UMI PHB
$499 - UMI SFC
$389 - UMI Swaybars
$249 - UMI Aluminum sway bar mounts
$1849 - UMI Shocks/springs (coil overs)
$200 - B&M Ripper shifter
$40 - Hurst Shift knob
$150 - 10 bolt girdle
$550 - 10 spoke wheels
$650 - wheel refinishing
$450 - new tires
$99 - iPod adapter
$99 - SLP "lid"
$79 - UMI STB
$200 - Stoptech pads (F&R) and new front rotors
$20 - SLP license plate bracket
$39 - SLP TCS disable module
$20 - Jegs skip shift delete
$199 - UMI Poly/Rotojoint LCA's
$180 - Ram adjustable master cylinder
$150 - Ram slave and throw out bearing
$389 - Fidanza flywheel
$460 - Centerforce dual friction clutch
$700 - Stage 2 transmission upgrade (parts only)
$30 - Hawks clutch reservoir
$550 - Dewitt's 2 core aluminum radiator
$375 - C&R Power Steering cooler
$140 - OEM heater hoses
$18 - heater hose to throttle body
$25 - radiator hoses
$150 - Holley Water pump
$450 - Rocketman hub adapters
$130 - used spindles
$175 - Moog front end rebuilt parts
$1200 - Stoptech Brake Kit
$200 - Stoptech rear rotors
$149 - Diablosport tune
$417 - Hooker cat back
$420 - ATI Balancer
$500 - 10 spoke wheels (second set)
$100 - ARP Wheel Studs
$70 - Wheel Spacers
$300 - Key Audio Speakers
$200 - Optima Red Top



$24,553




I need to make a list like this for my '02 Z, but I'm afraid of the bottom line (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

~DaVe
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JimMueller
post Dec 31 2019, 09:29 PM
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I did this back in the early 2000's on a now defunct local web forum. There was debate on whether to include parts only installed on the vehicle, or include spares, repairs, maintenance, labor, etc. I don't have time to go over everything, but the low hanging fruit in the past 2-3 years:

Street wheels & tires: $3000
Front suspension: $5000
Rear suspension: $3000
Steering: $1400
Cooling: $550
Rear-end: $1500
Engine rebuild (labor): $7000ish
Engine rebuild (new parts): $7000
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trackbird
post Dec 31 2019, 11:00 PM
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QUOTE (BumpaD_Z28 @ Dec 31 2019, 12:32 PM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Dec 30 2019, 07:25 PM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Jan 27 2017, 09:35 AM) *
At one point I gave the cost breakdown to that point. I guess I'll try to update it here (I probably don't want to know).

I was trying to keep this sane and stay accountable, so I'll update the totals for those who are following along (it's worse than I realized...but it always is):

$11,500 - Car
$199 - UMI PHB
$499 - UMI SFC
$389 - UMI Swaybars
$249 - UMI Aluminum sway bar mounts
$1849 - UMI Shocks/springs (coil overs)
$200 - B&M Ripper shifter
$40 - Hurst Shift knob
$150 - 10 bolt girdle
$550 - 10 spoke wheels
$650 - wheel refinishing
$450 - new tires
$99 - iPod adapter
$99 - SLP "lid"
$79 - UMI STB
$200 - Stoptech pads (F&R) and new front rotors
$20 - SLP license plate bracket
$39 - SLP TCS disable module
$20 - Jegs skip shift delete
$199 - UMI Poly/Rotojoint LCA's
$180 - Ram adjustable master cylinder
$150 - Ram slave and throw out bearing
$389 - Fidanza flywheel
$460 - Centerforce dual friction clutch
$700 - Stage 2 transmission upgrade (parts only)
$30 - Hawks clutch reservoir
$550 - Dewitt's 2 core aluminum radiator
$375 - C&R Power Steering cooler
$140 - OEM heater hoses
$18 - heater hose to throttle body
$25 - radiator hoses
$150 - Holley Water pump
$450 - Rocketman hub adapters
$130 - used spindles
$175 - Moog front end rebuilt parts
$1200 - Stoptech Brake Kit
$200 - Stoptech rear rotors
$149 - Diablosport tune
$417 - Hooker cat back
$420 - ATI Balancer
$500 - 10 spoke wheels (second set)
$100 - ARP Wheel Studs
$70 - Wheel Spacers
$300 - Key Audio Speakers
$200 - Optima Red Top
$80 - Coolant Reservoir
$15 - ARP Balancer bolt
$510 - Turn One power steering pump
$30 - Turn One PS Rack AN adapters
$150 - PS braided lines
$60 - SLP smooth bellows
$50 - K&N Filter

$25,448




I need to make a list like this for my '02 Z, but I'm afraid of the bottom line (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

~DaVe


I know I've forgotten a few things, I added two to this list. I didn't do as well at keeping track as things went on. This list seems bad enough at this point. lol. Sadly, I suspect I'd only be able to list it for $15k and I doubt I'd actually get that (unless I found the right buyer who just had to have it).

QUOTE (JimMueller @ Dec 31 2019, 04:29 PM) *
I did this back in the early 2000's on a now defunct local web forum. There was debate on whether to include parts only installed on the vehicle, or include spares, repairs, maintenance, labor, etc. I don't have time to go over everything, but the low hanging fruit in the past 2-3 years:

Street wheels & tires: $3000
Front suspension: $5000
Rear suspension: $3000
Steering: $1400
Cooling: $550
Rear-end: $1500
Engine rebuild (labor): $7000ish
Engine rebuild (new parts): $7000


Yea, I haven't counted oil changes. But there was some maintenance stuff in the list. Though I had a coolant leak and therefore the new hoses and stuff were somewhere between a repair and an upgrade. I've spent more than what's on the list, but there's plenty on the list. People can always subtract out anything they don't think belongs, but they can't guess if it's not there. I'm sure there is more, but I can't think what right now.

I also paid a bit under $200 (from memory) for an SLP Y pipe. I bolted it on and couldn't decide how it was going to fit and if it was going to rub or make noise and I took it off. I might find time to put it back on, but it's out in the garage too.
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trackbird
post May 28 2020, 12:53 PM
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I changed water pump gaskets on the car yesterday and it appears to have stopped the drip that I've had since I last drove it (it only drips when I start it). I have no idea why, but my original 2002 and this car have both had water pump gaskets leak on me. The original 2002 did it at like 33k miles and again about 80k. This one got a new water pump with the cooling system upgrade and it appeared to be leaking on the passengers side. I installed new Felpro gaskets and torqued it to 22 ft lbs as specified and the leak appears to be gone. As a side note, I ordered an AC Delco water pump gasket from Jegs and when it arrived it was a single gasket (for $9.50). Who replaces a single gasket? I know they are supposed to be reusable, but they seem to leak as it is, so I always replace them in pairs. I also ordered a set of Mishomoto silicone hoses for the waterpump to radiator connections. They came with a 2004 and up "racing thermostat". Now, the typical 2002 Camaro has the old style thermostat in it that uses the water neck/housing combo. I have changed mine over, but many have not. So they include a thermostat (that I'm assuming isn't real cheap) that likely won't work in most of the cars that buy this hose kit. Or maybe everybody has changed their pumps by now. Either way, I'm just going to return it all. NAPA got me fixed up for $8.50 with some new gaskets and I already had coolant.

So, I got it out to drive it last night. Now I need to fix the last remaining issue. I have some tires that were run a bit low on air and one of them has a "soft spot". I've been meaning to replace them and just haven't managed to take the time to do so. Last night I was feeling what felt like a warped rotor and after going out to bed the brakes again (they were bedded before it was parked), I realized that the issue is likely the soft tire and has nothing to do with the brakes. Now I'm trying to decide what to order for new street tires. I have been running the 160 treadwear Sumitomo HTR-Z tires from Tirerack....but those are no longer listed. I like them because they are cheap and fairly grippy for the money. I'm now searching for alternatives. I'm also trying to avoid some of the tires that run on the "narrow" end of the scale (that look like they are too small for the wheels, I'd rather have the wider footprint).

Any thoughts?
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BumpaD_Z28
post May 28 2020, 01:26 PM
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I just ordered a set of Nitto NT05's from Discount Tire Direct, they have them on sale AND a $80 rebate until June 5th ... just a low cost option
~Hoppie
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GCrites80s
post May 28 2020, 03:57 PM
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What do you think about the "new" Firestone Indy 500?
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trackbird
post May 28 2020, 04:20 PM
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QUOTE (BumpaD_Z28 @ May 28 2020, 09:26 AM) *
I just ordered a set of Nitto NT05's from Discount Tire Direct, they have them on sale AND a $80 rebate until June 5th ... just a low cost option
~Hoppie


I was just looking at those. I don't think they are particularly good in the rain, but I'm considering them. EugenioSS used to run them as street tires. My current tires are 160 treadwear and have lived for 4 years. I suspect they will harden from aging before I ever wear them out.

QUOTE (GCrites80s @ May 28 2020, 11:57 AM) *
What do you think about the "new" Firestone Indy 500?


I'm not sure. I almost bought a set a few years ago and I was looking at them again today. They might be a good option as well.
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GCrites80s
post May 28 2020, 06:11 PM
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NT05s are supposed to be OK in the rain, but for me they were only like that when they were brand new. After a year and a few thousand miles they got a lot worse any rain that made the road shiny. Maybe they're still fine if you've got full stability control, but that's not us! That's why I'm curious about the Indy 500 -- it's supposed to be much better in the wet. Hate having to worry about parking it when a downpour can literally happen any day between March and September.
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trackbird
post May 28 2020, 09:35 PM
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I think I'm leaning towards the BF Goodrich Sport Comp 2. They are listed as being like 10.9" in section width and 10.5" where the Firestones (and others) are 10.5" section and about 9.4" of tread (give or take, they all vary a bit).

https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgo...-comp-2/p/37064
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GCrites80s
post May 29 2020, 01:24 AM
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I had those on my 944. I liked them well enough and they were great daily driver tires (except in snow) but they did give up some grip as compared to tires with less void. Absolutely no problems in the rain. Did maybe 3 autocrosses with them before I sold the car. It's tough to directly compare a particular tire's behavior on a 944 on course as compared to an F-Body though between the 944's IRS, rear transmission, half the horses and 700 pound weight difference.

They are an older tire design; having been sold since at least 2008. Fitment-wise, they were nice and "level" on the 944 as in they didn't balloon and tempt you to air them down.

This post has been edited by GCrites80s: May 29 2020, 01:27 AM
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trackbird
post May 29 2020, 01:19 PM
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QUOTE (GCrites80s @ May 28 2020, 09:24 PM) *
I had those on my 944. I liked them well enough and they were great daily driver tires (except in snow) but they did give up some grip as compared to tires with less void. Absolutely no problems in the rain. Did maybe 3 autocrosses with them before I sold the car. It's tough to directly compare a particular tire's behavior on a 944 on course as compared to an F-Body though between the 944's IRS, rear transmission, half the horses and 700 pound weight difference.

They are an older tire design; having been sold since at least 2008. Fitment-wise, they were nice and "level" on the 944 as in they didn't balloon and tempt you to air them down.


I had these wheels refinished by Wheel Medic. I told them not to powder coat them. They ultimately did powder coat them. They are a wheel place and they claim they will be fine. I've seen some powdercoated wheels fail. I don't know if they were overheated or how they were done versus how Wheel Medic does them. But, the point is, I'm not going autocrossing on them and I probably don't need super grippy tires. I just want something that has good performance for back roads and having fun.
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GCrites80s
post May 29 2020, 02:27 PM
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Ah, I either didn't know that or it slipped my mind. So in that case I'd say the BFGs will serve you well. I can't say they ever felt "soft" (dunno if the compound has changed since then) but they'll be fine for back roads. Just going on looks, the rain performance of the BFGs should be better than the Indy 500s but the Indy 500s are probably softer so it could be a... wash.
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trackbird
post Jan 3 2021, 07:46 PM
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I need tires for this spring. It appears that now might be the time to move to 18" wheels. I have been trying not to spend a fortune on wheels (it's easy to spend $3,500+ on wheels). I have found a set of wheels from a company called Flow. The tire rack has them and they list a size for the rear of a 2004 Z06. It's an 18x10.5 with 54mm of offset.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...KP&i1_Qty=4

These are available in 315/30-18.

And the wheels:

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...ckageFlow=false

I think they'd look good on the car. I hope they will clear the Stoptech brake kit (the photos look like they'd have ok clearance).

Now I'm trying to sort out what I would need for spacers. When I ran 17x11 with 50mm offset I ran a 7mm spacer on the front and 3/8" on the rear. These are 54mm offset. 4mm is .157" if I'm correct. That would require a .532 spacer. Since the wheels are 10.5 and not 11, I'm guessing they'll be a little flexible and a 1/2" spacer would be the answer. I'll have to find half inch hub centric spacers (depending on how far the hub extends from the rotor face).
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GCrites80s
post Jan 3 2021, 10:46 PM
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Those look pretty good, both the tires and the wheels. Looks like you meant 315/30-18 correct?

I have been talked into the Continental ECS by tire tests. They should offer the same grip and tire life of the NT05s but with far better wet traction and hydroplaning resistance despite being 340 treadwear. The Falken RT615K+ offers more grip than the ECS but the hydroplaning resistance isn't as good and it has slightly less wet traction. My only worry is that Continental's touring and all-season tires have gotten hard very quickly on us -- 2 years or less. I don't know if their performance tires are like that too. With nearly every autocross I tried to attend this year getting rain (in a drought year!) the hydroplaning resistance is on my mind.

But the ECS doesn't appear to be available in the size you selected. The tire selection in that size isn't really all that good outside of the hot 200TWs and Purple Crack unless you want to rob a bank for Michelin PS2s. The hydroplaning resistance of the Falken should be by far the best of the 200TWs listed. For street use I'd say it is the best tire out of those.
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trackbird
post Jan 3 2021, 10:57 PM
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QUOTE (GCrites80s @ Jan 3 2021, 05:46 PM) *
Those look pretty good, both the tires and the wheels. Looks like you meant 315/30-18 correct?


Oops, you're correct. I fixed it above.

QUOTE (GCrites80s @ Jan 3 2021, 05:46 PM) *
I have been talked into the Continental ECS by tire tests. They should offer the same grip and tire life of the NT05s but with far better wet traction and hydroplaning resistance despite being 340 treadwear. The Falken RT615K+ offers more grip than the ECS but the hydroplaning resistance isn't as good and it has slightly less wet traction. My only worry is that Continental's touring and all-season tires have gotten hard very quickly on us -- 2 years or less. I don't know if their performance tires are like that too. With nearly every autocross I tried to attend this year getting rain (in a drought year!) the hydroplaning resistance is on my mind.

But the ECS doesn't appear to be available in the size you selected. The tire selection in that size isn't really all that good outside of the hot 200TWs and Purple Crack unless you want to rob a bank for Michelin PS2s. The hydroplaning resistance of the Falken should be by far the best of the 200TWs listed. For street use I'd say it is the best tire out of those.


I put 36 miles on it in 2020. The tires will probably harden from age long before they wear out. I've been wanting to move back towards 11" wide wheels/tires (I ran 315/35-17 on my 2002 Z28 T top car I used to autocross). I need to replace the tires on the car anyway and 17's are "dying" these days. So it may be time to move to 18" wheels and I may as well go wider considering how little I drive it. I was considering running a CAM event or two with it and I'm leaning towards welding a 4 point roll bar in it.

Ultimately, I have been eyeballing a Shafiroff 454 cubic inch LSx short block. That may be a while. But this is sorta setting up for more power down the road.
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GCrites80s
post Jan 4 2021, 02:13 AM
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On your old wheels, maybe try calling the wheel refinishing place and find out if they powdercoated your wheels at 250F or 400F. 250 would be a lot better than 400 for safety reasons. That way you could use or sell them with confidence if it was a low-temp process.
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trackbird
post Jan 4 2021, 02:38 AM
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QUOTE (GCrites80s @ Jan 3 2021, 09:13 PM) *
On your old wheels, maybe try calling the wheel refinishing place and find out if they powdercoated your wheels at 250F or 400F. 250 would be a lot better than 400 for safety reasons. That way you could use or sell them with confidence if it was a low-temp process.


It was Wheel Medic here in town. Wheel refinishing is their business and they have been doing it a long time. They assured me they have never had a wheel failure and the wheels are perfectly safe for track days and such. And I'm sure they know what they are doing. However, I'm still not going to run them on track, but they look good on the car and I'm more than happy with them for street tires.
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00 SS
post Jan 5 2021, 12:21 AM
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I've had the BFG Comp 2's on mine for maybe 7 years now. Good street tire. Not great for autox, but not terrible. Pretty much the same for the track days I've been to at high plains raceway. They are old and hard now. I'm in the same boat, I don't know what I want next or if I want move to 18's. The selection for 17's is very limited these days. Bonspeed and Billet Specialties have a few wheels I like, but they are big $$$$$$.
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trackbird
post Jan 5 2021, 01:07 AM
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QUOTE (00 SS @ Jan 4 2021, 07:21 PM) *
I've had the BFG Comp 2's on mine for maybe 7 years now. Good street tire. Not great for autox, but not terrible. Pretty much the same for the track days I've been to at high plains raceway. They are old and hard now. I'm in the same boat, I don't know what I want next or if I want move to 18's. The selection for 17's is very limited these days. Bonspeed and Billet Specialties have a few wheels I like, but they are big $$$$$$.


All the wheels I found are $650-1000 each. I just refuse to spend that, that's is a good percentage of the cost of the 454 shortblock. I just can't even consider that kind of money for wheels, and half of them are "track wheels" and might not survive on the street.

I'm also looking for a 4 point roll bar kit for it. I am not finding much. S&W Race Cars does one. I wish I could get with Alan Blaine again. I just need a basic 4 point for a convertible with the interior panels in it.
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