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> 1993 Corvette, any issues, opinions?
rpoz-29
post Jul 14 2018, 01:02 AM
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I'm looking at a 1993 Corvette 6 speed. It's a two owner car, the second owner being an old friend of mine. He passed away in January of 2015, and his sister has decided to sell it. It's black on black with a leather interior, and only 17,000 miles. I can get it pretty cheap, but wondered if there were any well know trouble spots with that year. Not planning to autocross it, just a street ride.
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trackbird
post Jul 15 2018, 01:05 AM
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QUOTE (rpoz-29 @ Jul 13 2018, 09:02 PM) *
I'm looking at a 1993 Corvette 6 speed. It's a two owner car, the second owner being an old friend of mine. He passed away in January of 2015, and his sister has decided to sell it. It's black on black with a leather interior, and only 17,000 miles. I can get it pretty cheap, but wondered if there were any well know trouble spots with that year. Not planning to autocross it, just a street ride.


I think the optispark is about the main known issue. I'm sure there are others, but that's probably the top of the list. I had a 1991, but they have some different issues that may not apply to the 1993 so I won't get into those.
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rpoz-29
post Jul 15 2018, 12:03 PM
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I've read up on the opti-spark. Looks like a huge PITA to get to. Are reliable replacements available? I know plenty of guys here still run LT-1's, so I would assume there are, although I do not know which to buy.
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ar52kortlang
post Jul 15 2018, 03:54 PM
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They make kits that take the “spark” of out of opti spark where then only the optical sensor is used. This prolongs their life. I have a lt1 in my 95 caprice and it hasn’t given me any issues (knocks on wood).
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CrashTestDummy
post Jul 15 2018, 05:16 PM
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We've had great experience with our LTXs, too, and like Rob, knock on wood!

The only time we had any issues was when I _changed_ out the opti chasing a poor running issue on our 95 9C1. While I used NOS Delco parts, the thing failed within a couple of months of the install. Given the crap that's out there, even from the well-known vendors, I threw the old one back in and it was working fine when we sold the car a couple of years later.

Yes, they ARE a PITA to get to, and to do R&R on them, you'll need some specialized tools. The biggest problem appears to be seepage from the water pump which is driven by a shaft that goes through the opti into the pump. Our '96 SS has a Meziere electric pump which allowed the drive shaft to be removed and the drive holes plugged. Other than some dicey wiring for the pump, I've had no issues with the Meziere pump, but I suggest you get two if you're going to depend on the car.

Our other two LT cars, the 95 Camaro and the 95 SS 'garage queen' have their original pumps and optis.

Not sure if the 93 Vette got the vented opti, since that update didn't happen on the B-body until '95, but it's an easy update.

There are a couple of different mods that use just the optical sensor for the trigger, and run LS-style coil packs, which appear to be a bit more reliable. Still, the weak point here is the optical sensor, so it is still a common failure point. Moving to the coil pack ignition, though, does reduce the amount of high-voltage arcs in the opti housing, which will reduce the ozone there, and make the environment in the housing a lot more hospitable.

Once you've done it a couple of times, you can get the opti off in about a half hour taking your time. I find draining the coolant, and refilling it/burping it when done to be the worst parts of the job.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Jul 15 2018, 05:17 PM
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Mojave
post Jul 15 2018, 06:24 PM
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93 didn't have an vented opti. The 92-93 computers are different than the 94-97 computers, and they suck. They require chips to program (later ones can be flashed), and many are experiencing capacitor failure. Remans are getting harder to find. The 92-93 Y-body belt setup is different and requires a two-sided belt IIRC. C4's use the same crappy front hubs as 4th gen, but for street only driving they are fine. Manual cars got the D44 diff, which is very strong, supposedly good to 500-600 hp. ZF6 trans is a good unit, though rebuild parts are harder to find. Clutches are the same as any other LTx, and the slave is external, unlike an LS.

Some here have had good experiences with LTx cars, but I have not. That might be because I'm a shit mechanic, but I swore off ever owning one again after my last C4. I had rotors explode, rotors fall off, and the optical half stop working. I ran LS coils with an aftermarket setup to drive them, but for a 93 car, the best solution is to swap to an LS computer. No more shitty chip flashing, individual coils, and no optical bullshit to deal with. It is the ideal fix. I think it's also possible to drill the intake to run a regular distributor, but I'm not familiar with the details of that swap.

If you can get it real cheap, then great, but C5 prices are pretty low right now, and a C5 is better in every, single, measurable way. YMMV.
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rpoz-29
post Jul 16 2018, 01:05 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Mojave, I didn't realize you could run the LS coils and computer, but if that would improve reliability, it would be worth investigating. I can probably get it for $9500, and would be the 3rd owner. I don't plan to autocross it, but it could happen. I wonder if it's faster than my my '02 Z-28.
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Mojave
post Jul 16 2018, 01:18 PM
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QUOTE (rpoz-29 @ Jul 16 2018, 08:05 AM) *
Thanks for the replies. Mojave, I didn't realize you could run the LS coils and computer, but if that would improve reliability, it would be worth investigating. I can probably get it for $9500, and would be the 3rd owner. I don't plan to autocross it, but it could happen. I wonder if it's faster than my my '02 Z-28.


The swap to an LS computer requires some work and cash (need a reluctor wheel mounted somewhere and coil mounts, for instance), but it is doable, and in my opinion, is the best fix for opti bullshit. If your Z28 is stock, the Corvette is definitely faster on the same tires. If you start autocrossing on sticky tires, you will have the same front hub problems as a 4th gen. I ASSume the swap brackets to C5 hubs will work on a C4 with longer bolts (the C4 front uprights are aluminum and thicker than the steel 4th gen uprights), but I don't know if anyone has actually tried it.
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mr.beachcomber
post Jul 16 2018, 01:20 PM
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Chad basically said it all regarding the 92-93 C4's. Since you're not going to auto-x the car, you should be okay. The Opti-spark is the single major failure point in these Vettes; however, that's with lots of accumulated miles typically 100K+. As long as you don't wash the engine with water (like some waxers did when the opti first came out), you should be okay. The only thing that would make me hesitate on buying the car is the age of the electronics and the need for good electrical skills in chasing down electrical failures (which happen from time to time).

Personally, I like the old LT1's and the 6-speed. It's a fun combination to drive and has enough grunt for some spirited driving. BTW, if you ever need to replace the computer, Zip Corvette can re-flash your original unit which is better than a re-manufactured unit.

Hope this helps!
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rpoz-29
post Jul 18 2018, 01:23 PM
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I drove it yesterday, but haven't bought it yet. The opti has to be bad. It pops back, stumbles under load, misses, etc. I plan to run a compression check on it as well. It pretty much sat from 2007-2015 with an occasional start to bring it up to temp. From the time of my friend's death in 2015, it wasn't even started. I thought at first it was injector issues, but I saw coolant on the cross member under the engine. It is a good negotiating tool, however.
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Mojave
post Jul 18 2018, 02:15 PM
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QUOTE (rpoz-29 @ Jul 18 2018, 08:23 AM) *
I drove it yesterday, but haven't bought it yet. The opti has to be bad. It pops back, stumbles under load, misses, etc. I plan to run a compression check on it as well. It pretty much sat from 2007-2015 with an occasional start to bring it up to temp. From the time of my friend's death in 2015, it wasn't even started. I thought at first it was injector issues, but I saw coolant on the cross member under the engine. It is a good negotiating tool, however.


Another common cause of ignition issues is the ignition control module (make sure it has grease for the heat sink). Be warned: tracing down this miss could be a fun, fun adventure, especially with a 92-93 ECU.
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CrashTestDummy
post Jul 18 2018, 02:17 PM
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Pop the gas cap and take a whiff of Jiff. I'm betting you have crap gas. It'll smell like turpentine if it's gone bad. Sitting for three years, no matter where, that gas is bad.

I've had many more issues with bad/old gas than any mechanical issues causing a car to run bad. They'll frequently start and idle, but put a load on the engine, the fun starts.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Jul 18 2018, 02:19 PM
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rpoz-29
post Jul 18 2018, 03:49 PM
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The fuel pump and strainer was replaced, and new fuel added. a week or so ago. I noticed a bit of spark knock when I put it under load. I didn't check the smell of the fuel, but if it's been sitting, I suppose the injectors could be at fault. Trust me Mojave, I ain't buying unless the issue is found and corrected. I appreciate the help you guys are giving me.
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Smitty2919
post Jul 18 2018, 08:02 PM
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Look up TorqHead out of Canada. They make a true bolt on optispark ignition delete kit so you can run a LS 0411 PCM and coil packs. You also can retain your LT1 wiring harness. All plug and play. No need to remove the timing cover either.

I have been running their system for over a year now and it has been GREAT. Zero issues with it and makes the car much more reliable. For a 17,000mi car I would invest the money to keep it fun/simple and reliable. I've also helped get their PCM to be E85 capable so all the new PCM's are able to take E85 (after adding a sensor,fuel pump and injectors).

Paul is the owner and a GREAT guy to deal with. Highly recommended.
http://www.torqhead.com/index.html

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Mojave
post Jul 18 2018, 09:21 PM
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QUOTE (Smitty2919 @ Jul 18 2018, 03:02 PM) *
Look up TorqHead out of Canada. They make a true bolt on optispark ignition delete kit so you can run a LS 0411 PCM and coil packs. You also can retain your LT1 wiring harness. All plug and play. No need to remove the timing cover either.

I have been running their system for over a year now and it has been GREAT. Zero issues with it and makes the car much more reliable. For a 17,000mi car I would invest the money to keep it fun/simple and reliable. I've also helped get their PCM to be E85 capable so all the new PCM's are able to take E85 (after adding a sensor,fuel pump and injectors).

Paul is the owner and a GREAT guy to deal with. Highly recommended.
http://www.torqhead.com/index.html


Do they have a complete plug and play kit for a 92-93 y-body? I don't see one on their site after a quick look.
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rpoz-29
post Jul 19 2018, 02:19 AM
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Smitty, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see the '93 Corvette listed. It looks like a great product. I went back to their site. Under "News", they mention that '92,'93 Corvettes are not yet available.

This post has been edited by rpoz-29: Jul 19 2018, 02:22 AM
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rpoz-29
post Jul 20 2018, 02:41 AM
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Dove deeper into the car. A buddy brought his Snap On diagnostic stuff with him. The ECM would not communicate with his equipment. The fuse was good, he was surprised it wouldn't read. We drove the car and it ran as bad as last time. We managed to get a couple of codes by crossing the obd pins. One was H41, the other was H72. Crossing 2 different pins made the check engine light blink one long and 2 short times. According to what we had this indicates "12" which is good. The gas smells horribly stale, and unplugging some of the injectors made no difference in the way it ran at all. The anti-freeze I saw on the cross member seems to be dripping from the t-stat housing. I'm wondering now if the problem is the stale fuel causing the issues. I don't think I'll be buying the car, but could the fuel be the main culprit?
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trackbird
post Jul 20 2018, 11:03 AM
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QUOTE (rpoz-29 @ Jul 19 2018, 10:41 PM) *
Dove deeper into the car. A buddy brought his Snap On diagnostic stuff with him. The ECM would not communicate with his equipment. The fuse was good, he was surprised it wouldn't read. We drove the car and it ran as bad as last time. We managed to get a couple of codes by crossing the obd pins. One was H41, the other was H72. Crossing 2 different pins made the check engine light blink one long and 2 short times. According to what we had this indicates "12" which is good. The gas smells horribly stale, and unplugging some of the injectors made no difference in the way it ran at all. The anti-freeze I saw on the cross member seems to be dripping from the t-stat housing. I'm wondering now if the problem is the stale fuel causing the issues. I don't think I'll be buying the car, but could the fuel be the main culprit?


Fuel is the main requirement for fire and bad fuel will make an engine do all kinds of stupid things.

A few years back I bought a low mile SOM Camaro SS. I started it and it ran ok, but I didn't drive it. When I picked it up I found that it didn't actually run under any real load at all. It popped and kicked and banged and generally ran poorly (if at all). I babied it home to Ohio from PA trying to burn all the fuel I could. I stopped and filled it up with fresh gas and it was better, but still not really drivable. Ultimately it took fresh gas and new plugs and wires to get it to run properly.
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Mojave
post Jul 20 2018, 03:51 PM
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QUOTE (rpoz-29 @ Jul 19 2018, 09:41 PM) *
Dove deeper into the car. A buddy brought his Snap On diagnostic stuff with him. The ECM would not communicate with his equipment. The fuse was good, he was surprised it wouldn't read. We drove the car and it ran as bad as last time. We managed to get a couple of codes by crossing the obd pins. One was H41, the other was H72. Crossing 2 different pins made the check engine light blink one long and 2 short times. According to what we had this indicates "12" which is good. The gas smells horribly stale, and unplugging some of the injectors made no difference in the way it ran at all. The anti-freeze I saw on the cross member seems to be dripping from the t-stat housing. I'm wondering now if the problem is the stale fuel causing the issues. I don't think I'll be buying the car, but could the fuel be the main culprit?


A friend of mine had a low mile '93 C4 that he put an engine in (long story), and he had a few dead cylinders (some primaries were much cooler than others). He wasn't getting signal to the injectors, ECU replacement fixed it.
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trackbird
post Jul 20 2018, 05:31 PM
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After having my 1991 Corvette, I don't know that I'll own another one. Those cars were seriously ahead of their time and the technology was just barely up to doing what they were doing. We didn't have the tiny microprocessors we have these days. And the cars really push the limits of the available technology at the time. There are several computers in there that all talk on a common data bus. And it's really interesting trying to troubleshoot things and track the flow of data between units. It's 10 lbs of crap in a 5 (or even 4.5) pound bag. Neat cars and I love driving them...but I don't think I'd do it again. (though I've always wanted an admiral blue ZR1).
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