STANG KILLA SS goes "racin" Options

[STANG KILLA SS]

my stock exhaust/mufflers broke an internal weld on the drivers side as was rattleing and vibrating like crazy. found a used B&B bullet exhaust on the forums and picked it up and installed it. the muffler is actually the tiny bullet at the top of the hump, the large canister is just a hollow resonator to eliminate the high pitches from the exhaust note.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/EuQWTip.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/PIqfX08.jpg)

also picked up a Dewitts radiator, twice as thick. has built in trans cooler like factory, but opted not to get the built in oil cooler after talking with other racers. to keep it seperate air to oil cooler.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/YuahLuV.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/M1AnLRC.jpg)

stock rad removed, last pic i took
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/YmTJpIu.jpg)

also remade my under bumper rad scoop, this time out of .06 aluminum.
made a redneck sheetmetal brake by bolting it to my bench with some angle alum.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/1rBPHf9.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/SOSXtKX.jpg)

[STANG KILLA SS]

unfortunately after the rad install and refilling the system, ironically the car over heated and we found out why.
melted center plug on the fan controller, a common problem on these cars, and had no airflow threw the new rad.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/Sf1h2DX.jpg)

so i removed the stock plug, and not wanting it to keep happening i installed individual spade connectors for the 3 wires.

new spades and extensions on the fan controller side. yes thats dual 12G speaker wire (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/CXEWB5j.jpg)

connected with fan motor side and heat shrinked
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/om6EI7J.jpg)

that fixed that and fans fired right up. still need to get the fan tune turned down though.

then i had a code after the rad/exhaust install and had also lost reverse gear somehow. p0449 "Evap Emissions control vent valve/solenoid circuit" which happens to be right near the exhaust in the back. spent two days under the car only to find one nicked wire, not cut, but insulation nicked. 3rd day i googled it. turns out the #13 fuse controls both the "evap vent valve solenoid" AND the reverse lock out. you guessed it, was blown when i nicked that wire putting in the exhaust. frustrating couple days, but an easy fix in the end remedying both.


after ignoring everyone telling me my fog light brake ducts wouldnt get cooling because the air is flowing over that area, not into it because its so far around the corner of the nose. well after several track days, i think they were right i wasnt happy with the cooling. so i made some scoops.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/TDh7MA3.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/97viyib.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/FqCVNSB.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/bZxrypd.jpg)

im sorta proud of them (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) but watch your shins!

[CrashTestDummy]

Scratcher 2!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[STANG KILLA SS]

Went back to the track last weekend.

Saturday was a bust. had a bad valve stem/TPMS sensor. cost me most of the day, several trips back and forth from track to discount tire, before finally getting it fixed. Also snapped a wheel stud in the process. by this time the rains from the Hurricane hit and flooded the track.
barely got out of the tunnel with the jeep. water was up to the bumper. ripped off the skid plate.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/3OBLaKD.jpg)

Sunday all was good!
Radiator
New radiator was doing some good. initial testing was showing about a 20* drop in temps, as a side bonus, with the motor being cooler, the oil temps were 10* cooler too. I didnt pay as much attention in the afternoon when temps rose, but i was definatly able to push harder longer, and recovery was quick. New spade connectors on the fan wires worked flawlessly.

Exhaust
New exhaust sounded great. had several people come up to me and comment on it as well. but its almost too loud. well its not so much the decibles as it is the frequency. it gave a weird feeling in your ear, like a vibration or pressure. with the helmet on it was just barely tolerable with the helmet off it was quite uncomfortable. by the end of the day, even with helmet on, my ears werent happy, they were swolen and hurting. alot of pressure inside my ear drum and couldnt hear shit, but a constant hum.

Brake Ducts
got lots of comments on these. but they worked well. definatly were cooling better. never had an issue. however im still not happy with initial bite and pedal feel. different pads and stainless lines are in the future i think.

Sunday after lunch had one of the most fun sessions ever.
4 of GMs baddest bitches, and 4 even drivers.
C6 Z07 Carbon on Michelin Sport Cup 2s
Z28 on NT01s
C7 Z06 on Pirelli Slicks
C6 Z06 on Rival S's (camera car, me)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1OXBWvbNsk

[STANG KILLA SS]

i don't have a torque wrench so i just make my lugs as tight as i can get them with my 18" 1/2" drive. obviously waaaaay too much. i started snaping studs.
sadly on the back of the vette you cant get the studs out because the parking brake and spindle upright are in the way. you have to remove the wheel hub.
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/5tO9m9e.jpg)

new ARP studs #100-7708
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/22wccOl.jpg)

also the car came with vinyl tinted taillights. they were pretty dangerous, way to dark and couldnt see any light. instead of paying $250 for LED eagle eye taillights, i decided to make my own for $10.
peeled off the tinted vinyl, then ordered some high gloss black vinyl on ebay. measured the tail lights and offset the circle 1/2" and cut out the black to let the outer ring be the stock transperant red plastic.

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/8IGsQ8A.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/MgC0ayv.jpg)

Viola! crappy cell phone pic
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/Re8wAke.jpg)


Headed of to the NCCC autocross in waco and Baylor Stadium
(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/tWgLcjz.jpg)

(IMG:http://i.imgur.com/CRjYBuh.jpg)

there were alot more serious racers at this one.
had my pressures too low at 32 at first. car was sliding and squelling pretty bad. got them back up to 34 range and was much better.
was insanely hot. heat advisory 102* with no wind.
I was running out of gear at the end of the 3rd parking lot, had to lift a bit early there.
my exhaust poped off again. put it back on twice. then gave up. once i got home i slotted the end of the pipes so the clamps could compress the tube and bite into the other tube on the slip joints.

also got code P0050. 02 sensor heater circuit. luckily i bought this little OBD2 reader i keep in my console for $25 bucks. best tool ever to instantly know whats wrong with the car when away from home. lots of people had good luck with it. i use the free "torque" app to access it and get live data from the car.
(IMG:https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71aEgqmIiVL._SX522_.jpg)


my best run
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeo20QHPe24

[trackbird]

i don't have a torque wrench so i just make my lugs as tight as i can get them with my 18" 1/2" drive. obviously waaaaay too much. i started snapping studs.

They aren't the most amazing wrenches, but they work (and you're not too pissed if someone walks off with it at the track):

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-click...mp;blockType=G2

You have $35-45k in a car, buy the $50 tool. Just order one and get it on the way. I actually just bought one of those for my father. I always had torque wrenches, but he doesn't. And while he doesn't work on cars much these days, he needed one for brakes the other day and I'm going to mail him one and a few other things he needs.

You may have lucked out that those overstressed lug nuts didn't fail on track and cause a wheel to come off. That will be the best $50 insurance policy you'll ever buy.

[CrashTestDummy]

Indeed. Torque wrenches aren't that expensive. Get one!! They're a safety item!

That said, when, and where do you get hem checked for accuracy? Mine's a few decades old. While it's always been stored indoors, and set at zero, I do wonder.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Aug 23 2017, 12:08 PM

[BumpaD_Z28]

Indeed. Torque wrenches aren't that expensive. Get one!! They're a safety item!

That said, when, and where do you get hem checked for accuracy? Mine's a few decades old. While it's always been stored indoors, and set at zero, I do wonde.

We have a local calibration lab do ours here at work ... BUT it was cheaper for me to buy a new 1/2" wrench this winter than to have my old one re calibrated (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I have heard some of the Snap on tool truck do it / have a "checker"

[CrashTestDummy]

Heh, yeah, that was kind of what I thought. I'd also heard that some of the Snap-On/Mac/Cromwell tool trucks have testers, but I rarely see those things, unless they're blasting down the street in front of my house. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Smitty2919]

Put a sign on the front lawn that says "Mr Snap on truck man I need calibration...please stop here." lol

[CrashTestDummy]

I might have to try that. The 'Free to a good home.' sign always works when we roll stuff we no longer want down to the end of the driveway. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Maybe I can also see if he has a replacement battery for my 14V impact driver that no longer holds a charge.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Aug 23 2017, 05:56 PM

[SS2win]

I have been out of the scene for a number of years and now that I'm back I have really enjoyed reading this thread! I can't believe after all this you don't have a torque wrench. LOfnL! Go get two. a 3/8" for the small stuff and a 1/2" for the big stuff like lug nuts, head bolts, mains, etc. It's the most important tool in the box IMHO! Good luck!

[rocky]

I might have to try that. The 'Free to a good home.' sign always works when we roll stuff we no longer want down to the end of the driveway. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Maybe I can also see if he has a replacement battery for my 14V impact driver that no longer holds a charge.

Depending on how old your impact is you may have to buy an adapter if it is still available. They change the battery designs way to fast in my opinion. Hopefully this new design that is out stays for a while. They are really pushing the cordless tools here

[trackbird]

Indeed. Torque wrenches aren't that expensive. Get one!! They're a safety item!

That said, when, and where do you get hem checked for accuracy? Mine's a few decades old. While it's always been stored indoors, and set at zero, I do wonde.

We have a local calibration lab do ours here at work ... BUT it was cheaper for me to buy a new 1/2" wrench this winter than to have my old one re calibrated (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I have heard some of the Snap on tool truck do it / have a "checker"

A friend took my 1995 vintage Williams (A Snap On company) torque wrench in to be checked about 6 years ago and it was still spot on. I have a MAC from about the same time, but I rarely use it. I also have a Williams dial type (with the needle) that goes to 175 ft lbs. It's rated to be within 2% through the full scale (some microtorque wrenches are +2%/-6% accuracy). I often clip the output of one to the other and see if they both agree. If so, I assume the wrench is likely fine. If I have two wrenches go out of calibration the same direction by the same amount....I'll buy a lottery ticket. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


And with that said, how did you put the heads back on without a torque wrench? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

We're just giving you crap (because that's what happens here). I'm glad it was a day in the garage and not a trip into a tire wall.

[CrashTestDummy]

<SNIP>I often clip the output of one to the other and see if they both agree. If so, I assume the wrench is likely fine. If I have two wrenches go out of calibration the same direction by the same amount....I'll buy a lottery ticket. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
<SNIP>

To continue this thread hijack, only because it's good info, I think, how do you do that? I do have a couple of click-type torque wrenches. I also have a nice, old, bar-type inch-pound wrench. I'm pretty sure that one doesn't need calibration.

And head bolts are torque to yield, so you torque them down with a big wrench until you can't turn it any more, then you stick a piece of pipe on the end and turn it 90 more degrees. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Aug 24 2017, 07:44 PM

[trackbird]

<SNIP>I often clip the output of one to the other and see if they both agree. If so, I assume the wrench is likely fine. If I have two wrenches go out of calibration the same direction by the same amount....I'll buy a lottery ticket. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
<SNIP>

To continue this thread hijack, only because it's good info, I think, how do you do that? I do have a couple of click-type torque wrenches. I also have a nice, old, bar-type inch-pound wrench. I'm pretty sure that one doesn't need calibration.

http://snaponindustrialbrands.com/cat-20-1...ingle-scale.htm

I have a 175 ft lb wrench similar to what's shown there. I just couple the ends together. I have an adapter from a 3/8" distributor wrench that allows you to snap a couple 1/2" to 3/8" step down adapters together (nose to nose). Or, you can take a tig welder and weld a pair of sockets together and plug a wrench into each end. Then set the adjustable wrench to 50, 75, 100 ft lbs, etc...and see what the dial shows when it clicks (the dial on mine has a "memory" needle, so I can just flip it over and look when I'm done).

And head bolts are torque to yield, so you torque them down with a big wrench until you can't turn it any more, then you stick a piece of pipe on the end and turn it 90 more degrees. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Uh, they don't work that way. The last LS2 I assembled, you torqued them to a starting torque (Chrysler 2.2 liter engines also work the same way as did torque to yield bolts on Ford Escorts) and then a set number of degrees using a torque angle gauge.

[Steve91T]

<SNIP>I often clip the output of one to the other and see if they both agree. If so, I assume the wrench is likely fine. If I have two wrenches go out of calibration the same direction by the same amount....I'll buy a lottery ticket. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
<SNIP>

To continue this thread hijack, only because it's good info, I think, how do you do that? I do have a couple of click-type torque wrenches. I also have a nice, old, bar-type inch-pound wrench. I'm pretty sure that one doesn't need calibration.

And head bolts are torque to yield, so you torque them down with a big wrench until you can't turn it any more, then you stick a piece of pipe on the end and turn it 90 more degrees. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Haha. That was funny.

Actually if he uses TTY bolts you don't use a torque wrench, right? Maybe you do torque to a certain torque the make marks on the head bolt and just use angles from there...I think.

All I know is when I was researching head bolts for the LS1, the TTY didn't look like fun. So I got the ARP bolts. Much easier with two or three passes with a torque wrench.

[trackbird]

Actually if he uses TTY bolts you don't use a torque wrench, right? Maybe you do torque to a certain torque the make marks on the head bolt and just use angles from there...I think.

All I know is when I was researching head bolts for the LS1, the TTY didn't look like fun. So I got the ARP bolts. Much easier with two or three passes with a torque wrench.

22 ft lbs and then 90 degrees and then 70 more degrees (that's what I'm finding for the torque specs for the LS7 heads). That's for the larger bolts (M11), The M8 seem to only torque to 22 ft lbs.

http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/ls7-torque-specs.pdf

[CrashTestDummy]

<SNIP>I often clip the output of one to the other and see if they both agree. If so, I assume the wrench is likely fine. If I have two wrenches go out of calibration the same direction by the same amount....I'll buy a lottery ticket. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
<SNIP>

To continue this thread hijack, only because it's good info, I think, how do you do that? I do have a couple of click-type torque wrenches. I also have a nice, old, bar-type inch-pound wrench. I'm pretty sure that one doesn't need calibration.

And head bolts are torque to yield, so you torque them down with a big wrench until you can't turn it any more, then you stick a piece of pipe on the end and turn it 90 more degrees. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Haha. That was funny.

Actually if he uses TTY bolts you don't use a torque wrench, right? Maybe you do torque to a certain torque the make marks on the head bolt and just use angles from there...I think.

All I know is when I was researching head bolts for the LS1, the TTY didn't look like fun. So I got the ARP bolts. Much easier with two or three passes with a torque wrench.

Yeah, TTY bolts are right up there with Torx head bolts. The fscking GM Engineer that thought those ideas up really needs several swift kicks to the nards.

Bolts you use once. Gimme a break!!

[STANG KILLA SS]

And with that said, how did you put the heads back on without a torque wrench? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

all of the technical and motor stuff i do at a buddies house (the lift you see it on) hes a ASE master mech for a day job and has every snap on made.

all the bolt on stuff i do at home.