Since I had the 416 LS3 installed in the car I've been chasing a few problems:

1) a clunk in the steering from a stop. Inner tie rods? the steering feels a little odd, I already replaced the PS pump and drained/refilled fluid with new. Problem still exists.

2) RPMs drop when steering goes to full lock in both directions and if I don't feed it throttle the engine will die (still dies regardless sometimes). Rarely- but also rev matching on down shifts coming to a stop (no steering input) the RPMs dip just below 500rpm and then they come back up to idle..has died a couple times. Or an alternative to low RPM is high RPM idle after to coming to a stop from rev matching down shifts (sometimes without downshifts). It will idle around 1300 then after being stationary for ~3 seconds it drops back to the 800/900 idle.

3) Throttle cable on the NW 96 TB is loose causing a lag in the throttle input, how do I adjust this?

Any help or input?

#1 is most likely a front lower control arm bushing, the rear ones tear. Also check the K member bolts.

#2 Sounds like the power steering pump relief valve is bad, the other 1/2 of this is a tune issue. BUT, with it idling go out under the hood and wiggle the TPS wiring.

#3 you should be able to bend the bracket back to take up the slack in the cable.

Did you replace the pump with an OEM/stocker, or is it a PSC, or a Turn One?

New AC Delco..same as what you get from factory. The change in pumps and fluid did absolutely nothing. It acts the same after as it did prior. didn't want to spend the $ on a turn one or other knowing I won't be tracking the car much if at all for a while...plus I'm contemplating selling

This post has been edited by Chris Ronson Jr: Jul 7 2012, 12:48 PM

front control arms have new moog bushings. I'll check the kmember

where is the relief valve located, on the rack?

I have to agree that some of your issues are due to the tune. I chased similar idle issues with my tune. Seems like adjusting the idle decay helped? Who did your tune?

CMS in so cal, i think they rushed through it because they were very busy and short handed around that time.

I have an AFR gauge and its solid 12.5 at WOT...but that doesn't help when under 2k in parking lots (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

This post has been edited by Chris Ronson Jr: Jul 7 2012, 02:09 PM

I'd find someone local to you to work on the tune. I used SpeedSouth here in Birmingham. I also have HPTuner and can do some of my own tuning or install a tune emailed to me. I also have an LS3 in my car.

Closest to local I have is Formato (I've heard a lot of mixed reviews) and Vengeance..which is a few hour drive..and in reality I'd have to tow it, leave it, then pick it up a week later to tow back. I have HP Tuners, needed it when I was racing the Corvette..but really am not familiar enough with it to consider trying nor do I currently have the time to invest in learning while running a new business

Do you have a wideband?

Ed Hutchins can tune it via e mail with HP tuners, he did my LS6 in my 99Z and it was dead on A/F ration on the dyno.

Contact him here

http://hitechtuning.com/

I haven't used Ed Hutchins, but his customers seem to like him according to his website. You might want to contact him and tell him your issues.

I'm not a big fan of mail order tunes. I'd rather have someone "local" that I can see face to face if I have any problems, and unfortunately CMS is no longer local to me

You are not too far from CAM (Carolina Auto Masters) in Durham, NC. Jeff Creech runs the place and has done wonders with my 440RWP LT1 which is totally streetable. Tell him I sent you. He tunes anything GM using a wideband and dyno including carbureted stuff and is a good diagnostician. Just tell him what your problem is and he will do everything possible to tune it out. 919.215.3227. I am not associated with, but have known Jeff about 15 years.

I 2nd this, he does great work! He tuned my 396 LT1 beautifully when nobody else could. Great guy to work with.

Its not "mail order".

He sends you a tune via e mail, you put in on a flash drive, load it in the car with HP Tuners, drive the car and datalog.

Save and Send him a the datalog via e mail, he tweaks the tune and sends it back till he gets it right.

It's called "remote tuning" and many shops do it, you are doing the same thing.

A "street tune" is most often better than a dyno tune as it's "real world".

Just trying to help you out, I have used this method with Ed Wright(Fastchip) and Ed Hutchins (HiTech tuning).

I can tell you this, my barge Z28 with a stock LS6 that made 385 to the wheels ran a C5 Z06 on the Power Tour on the interstate twice. He at at least had exhaust(loud) and I was carrying 250lbs of luggage and all the crap from the Power Tour. First race from 70-130 he got his ass cracked, second race he got the kick and pulled 1/2 a car on me from 70-130. Says plenty for Ed Hutchin's tune in this car.

EDIT

The car ran 115MPH in the 1/4 skating around in 1st and 2nd gear in 70* 100% humidity air, that's faster than 80% of stock Z06's 1/4 mile.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jul 11 2012, 01:36 AM

That's is really cool. I've never heard of this. What exactly is required? A wideband, but what about the data logging?

He can do it with the narrowband sensors on the car, HP tuners has a datalogging feature built in.

More accurate with a wideband, HP tuners has the ability to piggyback and datalog a wideband, you wire it into their green connector.

I used this wideband

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/performance/afx.asp

i have an Innovate LC-1 in the car

That one will work, there should be an extra wire in its harness that hooks into the HP tuners green plug so HP tuners will see its signal and record it in the datalog.