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Blaine Fabrication.comUMI PerformanceUnbalanced EngineeringSolo PerformanceHotpart.com
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Personal Info
38 years old
Chicago suburbs
Born Oct-18-1982
No Information
Other Information
Your car (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, etc): '96 Z28
Use (autocross, track days/HPDE, road racing, street, etc): No Information
Joined: 16-January 04
Profile Views: 1,726*
Last Seen: 1st August 2010 - 02:25 PM
Local Time: Oct 25 2020, 03:35 AM
223 posts (0 per day)
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AIM thetrax69
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My Content
1 Aug 2010
I've got a brand-new set of Hawk HPS pads that have a dab of anti-seize on the ears but are otherwise brand spanking' new. I couldn't install them because my C5 big brake kit used F-Body pad abutment brackets, not C5 brackets.

$80 shipped. Want these gone. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
16 Apr 2009
Wow, I haven't posted on FRRAX in over a year!

Here' a brief background of my situation. I've got a '96 Z28 that has a laundry list of mods on it. In college I had a nicely-paying internship and got way, WAY too carried away with just throwing parts at the car. Now I've got a car that's got a bunch of fancy parts on it, but no HPDE or AutoX experience. So basically that makes me an inexperienced driver with a car that's (most likely) not built as a balanced combo.

My car sat for most of last year, and this year I'd like to turn a new leaf. Specifically:
1) Get track experience.
2) Clean up or simplify the mods on my car.

I don't have a truck or trailer, so I'd like to stick to track days that are within a few hours from Chicago. Also, I'm perfectly open to the idea of auto-crossing in a Hyundai Accent if that will help me unlearn any bad driving habits. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I'm trying to keep an open mind here. Can anyone recommend a good way to get my feet wet?

As far as parts go, here's the mess that I've gotten myself into:

Engine / Exhaust (abridged)
  • "Stage 2" ported by Combination Motorsports
  • Cam Motion cam (.575"/.595", 234/241) (probably too big for the rest of the motor, but that's another story)
  • Comp 1.6 Roller rockers, LT4 Xtreme duty timing kit
  • Ported LT1 intake manifold, 58mm TB, CAI
  • Kooks stainless steel longtubes and Y-pipe, Hooker catback
  • Hooker catback
  • McLeod street twin clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter
  • Home-built Moser 9-inch
    • Moser housing, 4-channel ABS
    • 4.11 richmond gears
    • C7AW-E center section
    • Daytona pinion support
    • 1350 series yoke
    • 31 spline axles
    • Ford Track-Lock
  • Z06 front brake conversion (LS1 spindles / abutment brackets, LG adapter plates, Z06 calipers, Hawk HP+ pads)

  • 17x9.5 / 17x11 GrandSport wheels, BFG KDW on front, BFG drags on back
  • LG tubular subframe connectors
  • LG front / rear swaybars, energy suspension poly endlinks
  • LG coilovers, car lowered ~1" from stock
  • UMI trans-mounted torque arm
  • Aluminum rod-ended LCA's and PHR ("JonA" style)
  • Unbalanced Engineering steering shaft rag joint eliminator
I don't think all the parts are bad per se, but I'd bet that there are parts in the combination that aren't necessarily working together as well as they could be.

I really want to avoid making any radical changes until I get a few seasons of experience, but I do want to address the following things this summer to give the car better street manners:
  • The LG coilovers and rod-ended suspension are great on winding roads and hard turns, but after 2 years and ~4,000 miles of street driving, I'd like to tweak the setup to make this a little more street-friendly. Train tracks or bad asphalt can be downright brutal. I'm guessing I could improve this a lot by just changing one side of the PHR and LCAs to a rubber-jointed end. Long-term, I'd like to figure out a better spring/shock combo that will give me a good balance between street manners and handling.
  • The HP+ pads seem to brake fairly well, but they squeal a lot for street driving. I blame that on parts-buying fever. This summer I'd like to buy a set of quieter street pads and new rotors, and perhaps keep my current set for swapping in on track days.

Thanks guys! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)
19 Sep 2007
My LG Motorsports torque arm won't fit my Moser 9-inch's torque arm mount, so I'm selling it. It's in great condition except for some chips in the powdercoat. It will not work with a 9-inch or 12-bolt without welding / cutting.

$150 + shipping firm.

This arm is designed only for use with a 6-speed car. The transmission-side bracket will not work on a 4L60E.

(IMG:http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6391/transmountdf1.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8205/lgtascuffiu0.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/8788/lgtarearendmount2sr5.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/8995/lgtarearendmountcc6.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3120/lgtanosepg7.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/1853/lgta1mz9.th.jpg)
23 Apr 2007
I'm looking for an LT1 engine bay fuse block with the contacts still in place. I need to add a relay to my Z's fuse block and I'm not sure how else to do it other than yank the pins out of another block.

5 Mar 2007
The garage cleaning continues...

I've had a black 4 point LG Motosports STB sitting in my garage for over a year now. Had it on the car but removed it a while back to work on the motor. I cranked up the flash for these pics to show the dings in the powdercoat. It looks way better in natural sunlight.

(IMG:http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4787/stb3ry9.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/3797/stb2rc8.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/8876/stb1co6.th.jpg)

$65 OBO.
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