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Blainefab
I build race cars
Age Unknown
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Central coast, CA
Birthday Unknown
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Nick Steel's CMC 4th gen Camaro cage:
http://para.noid.org/gallery/album07

Scott McClung's ITE C4:
http://para.noid.org/~c4racer/C4RACER/BF/home/

Evan Ginsberg's ITE/VVC C4:
http://community.webshots.com/user/wavslav
Other Information
Your car (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, etc): 1994 Camaro Z28
Use (autocross, track days/HPDE, road racing, street, etc): ORR 1994-2001, SCCA ITE 2003 SFR regional champion
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Joined: 31-August 05
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Last Seen: Today, 08:11 PM
Local Time: Aug 17 2017, 02:36 PM
4,716 posts (1 per day)
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Blainefab

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17 Mar 2017
Some ass tried to steal my truck - crowbared the pass door handle assy to get access to the key unlock linkage, got the door open without setting off the OEM alarm.

He used a vice grip on the ignition switch, forced it to the run/start position without a key. Security camera video shows the lights coming on and flickering like he got the starter to engage but it it didn't start. He gave up after about 10min.

State Farm wrote me a nice check (0 ded comp), mostly for cosmetic damage to the door, and I'm a car guy so figured I'd fix it myself - I got a new ignition lock cylinder and door handle assy for about $60.

It will crank and start but die immediately. Fuel pressure is good, looks like the OEM security system is killing the ignition. I've cleaned up the original lock cylinder and tried it with the same results. I've disconnected the battery for a while and retried with no change.

There is a small switch on the lock housing that looks like the actuator end got sheared off - I extricated the switch from the housing and if I press the stub of the switch I get the door open chime. I've tried pressing it while starting - no change.

Need to tow a car to Sonoma tomorrow, I'm willing to bypass whatever I need to get this thing running.

Do anyone have a suggestion what to try next, and/or a link to a wiring diagram?

2002 Silverado LS 6L gas 2wd it has the OEM Passlock security system (no resistor in the key like the Fbod)
10 Aug 2016
This setup is lightly used, I built it for a Subaru Sti, my customer did a couple track days with it, then got a job with Ebay and parked the car. Probably less than 10hrs run time on it - motor was fine so it should be clean but best to thoroughly clean any used oil cooler before putting back into service.

Cooler is a stacked plate 48 row, 11" x 11" x 1.5", the brand name is under a bracket, it says made in Canada. It's probably a B&M or Derale. Ports are 1/2" NPT, fittings are -10AN.

Fan is 12" dia Permacool, brackets and partial shroud are custom Blaine Fab. The whole fan/cooler/shroud assy is about 16" tall by 12" wide x 4-1/4" thick, could be adapted to fit a variety of other radiators, or used as a stand alone. New cost on the cooler and fan is about $215, I'm asking $130 plus shipping - that includes the brackets, AN fittings, cooler and fan, but not the radiator.

It is currently mounted on an aftermarket aluminum Sti (I think it was a 2005 model) radiator, which is not included, but if you need the radiator too, let me know and I'll get details on it and cut a good deal.

(IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-08-09/1-004.JPG)




9 Aug 2016
I've got 3 new Setrab tube coolers, they have never been installed. These are coolant to oil heat exchangers and work extremely well. I've used the largest model (TOC-300) of this product line in several 4th gen cars - CMC, AI, AIX and SU, including Ken Kurtz monster 650rwhp LS3 TA.

The tube cooler is plumbed in line with the radiator cool side hose, no need for bulky ductwork or fans. I can fab a bracket that mounts the cooler parallel to the front swaybar.

I've got 2 of the TOC-200, and 1 of the TOC-150. They appear to be out of production, the only hit that Google returns is a price list from Baker Precision, they charged $343 for the 200 and $331 for the 150.

http://bakerprecision.com/setrab1.htm

I'll let them go for $230ea and I'll cover domestic shipping.

The optional M22 to -12AN adapters (I've got 8 of them) are $9ea - other sizes are available from Improved Racing.

(IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-08-08/4-012.JPG)

(IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-08-08/3-010.JPG)

Here's a typical(?!) install of the larger TOC300 cooler, the 150 and the 200 are the same diameter but shorter -

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_05_17/IMG_3617.JPG)

(IMG:http://www.blainefabrication.com/projects/2010_05_20/IMG_3623.JPG)


9 Aug 2016
This is a new in bag, never used, Mocal 180F engine oil thermostat with -10AN male ports and a bracket, part number is 1226-10AN

Pegasus sells this for $183, I'll take $120 and I'll cover domestic shipping.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productse...sp?Product=1226


(IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-08-08/2-008.JPG)
9 Aug 2016
I have this left over from a project - new, never used Peterson 08-0400 oil breather tank. Nice spun aluminum with TIG welded ports and a rubber lined bracket.

Jegs sells it for $155, I'll take $110 and I'll cover domestic shipping.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Peterson-Fluid-Syste...8-0400/10002/-1

The optional port adapters are sized for -12AN (got 2ea) and 6AN. $8ea for the -12, $4 for the -6.


(IMG:http://blainefab.com/projects/2016-08-08/1-007.JPG)
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Jae
Alan, where in our area has an alignment shop that will know how to work with the UMI A-arms? Thanks, Jae
25 Nov 2007 - 5:12

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Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 17th August 2017 - 09:36 PM