[IROCZman15]

Hi guys. I recently became aware of this whole board via some friends of mine on thirdgen.org. This looks like a good forum for me to be on and I am hopeful to learn as much as I can by reading some of the forums. I will make sure to search for the info I have questions on, and I will always keep things tech related.

I've had my 1987 IROC for 21 years now and it was my high school car. Years later after I made it look real nice, I got bit by the quest for more performance. The car is indeed a true real-deal street car that I use for autocross, short course road racing, drag racing, car shows, and general street duty. I do not own a trailer and street drive it wherever I go. My parts selection is based on those factors, so I have quite the balancing act to do when it comes to picking parts.

I have competed in the Optima Batteries Search for the Ultimate Street Car series in 2016 and also in 2017 (both at New Jersey Motorsports park)
I have also competed in the UMI Performance Autocross challenge in 2019 and 2020.
I also have done a handful of other autocross events in NJ and PA as well.


I enjoy the heck out of the car, but I know it will never be competitive in any specific CAM-T class or competition. For me, it is all about building/driving the car to find its potential, and then learning what I can do to take it a step further.


As mentioned, its an 1987 IROC-Z. It has a 406 small block chevy with a dart block, dart heads, callies rotating assembly, full roller valvetrain, and I use the holley sniper efi. I know the automatic trans is not optimal, but it is what is staying in the car. it consists of a ProBuilt Automatics 700R4 built with their tiop level package, and a 9.5" Edge Racing 3,400 converter. A 3" driveshaft from Dennys, and a Moser 12 bolt rear axle with 33 spline axles nad a tru Track. It currently has 3.55 gears, but In February it will get a gear change from 3.55 to 3.91 gears. Also, the engine was built with nitrous in mind and it will indeed be getting a 150-200 wet shot soon.

Front:
I have the C4 HD 13" brake package up with Hawks HPS pads. UMI A-arms up front with Koni Yellow struts and UMI upper strut mounts. OEM sway bar with poly mounts. Replacement Moog springs and a 2" drop-spindle setup. Replaced everything to the steering system with new components and had the original IROC-Z steering box re-built this past winter so it is very on-point. Wheels are 18x8" with a Nitto 555 255/40/18 tire that I would love to replace.

Rear:
UMI adjustable lower control arms, UMI panhard bar, Founders performance upper panhard bar. OEM swaybar with poly mounts. Koni yellow rear shocks. Moog springs with 3/4 coil cut off. C4 rear brake conversion so 12" rotor with powerstop pads. 18x10" wheel with a 285/40/18 nitto 55 tire. Also looking to replace these in the spring.


Here are some photos:

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/4354/37099178212_179dd3ccc4_c.jpg)

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900080406_c0efef3152_c.jpg)

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49899561173_f239747cee_c.jpg)

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50269531676_c369c0fe6d_c.jpg)


(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/7113/27355806591_71c8967ff4_c.jpg)

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/4445/37713056722_a617e759f7_c.jpg)

(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50055682841_ddbb67f597_c.jpg)




here is a link to some of my photo albums of events and my car's build over recent years:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/iroczman15/albums



I also have a youtube channel, and while I do not do any editing or creative video work, I do have some videos of my autocross runs over recent years. if you search through the "My videos" section. My username is the same as it is here IROCZman15

I am also on www.thirdgen.org using this username and I have a couple of long "build" threads and some racing info there along with photos, datalogs, videos, and tech info.

Glad to be a member here and looking forward to what I can learn after I spend some time reading.

[GCrites80s]

I never figured out what exactly killed my 700R4 at an autocross besides "heat" from doing 26 runs in only a couple hours. It had a shift kit and allegedly had a "Corvette servo" (which all 4th Gen automatics have I guess). I can't remember how many total runs it had, maybe 75? One track day with two drivers as well. But I never put the car up on stands and let it run through the gears a bunch of times after it sat for 8 years (which, at the time, I didn't know you were supposed to do to automatics after they sit that long). Basically what I'm getting at is how you keep the automatic from killing itself when things get hot. Is it just the quality of the ProBuilt trans and the upgraded components or do you have a better cooler than the stock setup that runs through the radiator end tank? How does a high stall converter like you have help or hurt? I feel like a high stall converter would run hot in an AX/RR environment. I don't have an automatic anymore, but if I wind up with another one one day I'm curious. I don't feel automatics negatively affect autocross times except for maybe maintenance throttle in corners being too overzealous due to the torque multiplication of a torque converter. But a high-stall one won't do that as much below the stall speed.