Help me out with suggestions here in the autoX. NOTE: my front tires were pretty much done at this point (4th event on the NT05's in addition to street miles).

http://youtu.be/3yIMklJFG8o

http://youtu.be/LW8xVAsow1s

http://youtu.be/aVQXA4OqdTI

it appears that you may be late on the turn ins, especially on the slalom. If the car isn't responding, that explains the some of the corners, but you're definitely late on the first slalom cone on all 3 runs (FYI, I suck at slaloms for exactly the same reason). Trackbird and Beerman (that could be a cheesy 70's movie title (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) finally convinced me to drive at the first cone until I hit it and the adjust from there. just my 2 cents....

With no front tire left, it didn't want to turn...I tried using the power to rotate the rear but that can be counter productive on a tight AUTOX so I didn't try to push it too much. Next event will have new front tires (or at least the rears moved up front). I also would like to add an UE DTA to hopefully help me put the power down better as well has assist with braking performance. What I saw from the fast cars is they just absolutely turn in great...no drama, no squalling from the tires...they just turn...I want to get my car there!!!

What were your tire pressures and alignment settings?

I tried 3 different tire pressure settings the 3rd day (as it was the only day with 100% dry conditions and decent temps). 1st 32 all around, 2nd 30/32, 3rd 26/29.

Alignment: -1.2 camber (to 1/32 toe out) and 5.5 caster.

FWIW, on Kumho 315s I usually run about 32 front / 26-27 rear psi. Seems odd that you would have the rear pressures higher, usually i want to be able to get more grip/bite on the back on power down/turning.

Any other thoughts or further detail on the car I could provide? I am consistently around 2 seconds behind the top cars...granted I have run the last 2 events on compromised rubber. But any suggestions appreciated. I agree my turn in is slow and that is something I should work on. I really need to review video footage between runs and make adjustments accordingly.

Better stickier tires unless you are restricted.

What class are you running in? In a class that allows DOT-R or slick tires, your deficit is pretty much all in the tire. And these days as good as 'Street Tire' class tires are, old, dead vs. new tire-for-the-class can be a good 1-1.5 seconds difference, almost no matter how you drive.

Very cliche but slow is faster. It looks like your pushing too hard into the slolem and a few turns. Strano told me once, "It's faster to go 4mph too slow than 1mph too fast". When all else fails, braking earlier will cut a second off my best time.

Another good tip from Evolution instructors is (paraphrased on course) "sometimes it's best to just to go slow in the "slow" sections of the course to get them out of the way and concentrate on the "fast" sections".

I used to play Forza 3-4 over the winter when I was still racing, concentrating on going slow to go fast in the lower classes to learn better turn-in techniques. The lower classes will teach you to be a momentum driver. It helped me immensely. The physics are outstanding. I have a third Gen in the game that's a copy of my real world car, and so far, it's nearly identical in grip. just a thought.....