The new to me 1992 Z28, Photos and build information inside Options

[trackbird]

You planning on keeping a spare tire in there?

Nope. I was thinking that I should cut the bracket out (unless there is a good reason not to) as well as many other brackets along the way. I don't have a spot weld cutter, but I probably should look into one. I intend to take out all of the brackets that I can since I won't be needing them.

What do you guys think I can get a stripped 3rd gen to weigh once it's missing all of the extras? Is it possible to get to 2,600 lbs before the cage?

[nape]

If you're taking side windows and inside guts of the door out, you can get there.

My car is down to 3020 with me (215lbs), 15 gals of fuel (6.5lbs/gal = ~98lbs), and approx 100ft of cage (1.6lb/ft = 160lbs). That puts the car at approx 2550 before me and fuel (with iron heads).

There's a ton of work to get down to that weight though. I stripped my car for over two months before I sent it to the fabricator. Every bracket is gone, all seam filler is gone (over 10lbs), and I even cut 15lbs out of the roof structure.

[trackbird]

TJ,

Is that with a glass hood or the steel one?

I've already got aluminum heads, but I've got a Stealth Ram intake so there's some extra weight back. I am intending to gut the doors and replace the hood with a lighter glass hood (it has glass, but it's a heavy one). I was going to say 2,500 lbs, but I decided that was too light. I'm starting to think it's not too light.....(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Blainefab]

You planning on keeping a spare tire in there?

Nope. I was thinking that I should cut the bracket out (unless there is a good reason not to) as well as many other brackets along the way. I don't have a spot weld cutter, but I probably should look into one. I intend to take out all of the brackets that I can since I won't be needing them.

There's 35-40# of unused interior brackets - a sawzall will leave 10-20% of that plus ragged sharp edges. The spot weld cutter will get all of the metal out, and leave only minor burrs that are easy to smooth off with a flap disc.

[mitchntx]

At a local hardware store, I found a carbide drill bit that had a point on it and then cutters on the outer edge.

Not sure if it is technically is a spot weld cutter, but it certainly does a number on them.

Have to be careful not to go all the way through, though. cut a little, pry a little ...

[nape]

TJ,

Is that with a glass hood or the steel one?

I've already got aluminum heads, but I've got a Stealth Ram intake so there's some extra weight back. I am intending to gut the doors and replace the hood with a lighter glass hood (it has glass, but it's a heavy one). I was going to say 2,500 lbs, but I decided that was too light. I'm starting to think it's not too light.....(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Fiberglass hood, a real flimsy one.

I forgot to mention, the front bumper is made from 1.5" x .083" tubing (I think, can't remember what I ordered). Pretty much a copy of Randy's idea. Rear bumper will be getting replaced when life settles down a little.

A lot of the build pics are in the link to my sig, make sure you look at '06 pics too.

How much fabricating do you want to/can you do? I have ideas on how to remove another 50+ lbs from the front end but not the time or money right now.

PS- lexan in the rear hatch removes 60+ lbs according to a buddy. One of the better $/lb ratios if you're going to spend money, too bad it's off the rear of the car. Not as much of a problem for a road race car vs. an autocrosser though.

This post has been edited by nape: Jun 10 2007, 03:08 AM

[StanIROCZ]

TJ, do you have a full exhaust or just something short?

[nape]

Short. It's a 3" Dynomax bullet right on the end of the y-pipe with a turndown pointing out the side of the car. My exhaust hanger is a ~4" piece of 1" x 1/8" AL flat stock bolted to the pinch rail and muffler with 1/4-20 hardware, known as the ghetto hanger.

It's surprisingly quiet (but good) with the stock L98, it's one of the quieter cars on the AI grid. I can't wait to see how it sounds with a real motor.

Pretty much everything has been done for weight.

If it ain't light, it ain't right! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)

This post has been edited by nape: Jun 11 2007, 04:40 AM

[sgarnett]

At a local hardware store, I found a carbide drill bit that had a point on it and then cutters on the outer edge.

Not sure if it is technically is a spot weld cutter, but it certainly does a number on them.

I think you may be describing a bit designed for glass.

[trackbird]

Well, I'm still waiting on suspension stuff, so I decided to toss some of the extra weight that I wasn't going to need any longer.

As you can see, it got pretty serious for a little while. I had the dash out and I'd already removed the stuff under the hood (I need to get something to patch the holes with tomorrow).

Quite an impressive pile for a little bit of work.

And, I did bolt the dash back in tonight. I have to tie up or remove some of the stuff that's back there (like the cruise control module, etc) and wrap things up for now. I'm sure that more of it will come out later, but for now, I'm calling it good. At least I can reach things to work on them.

I got a spot weld cutter from eastwood tonight. It seemed to cut well at first, but it didn't take long for me to find a way to dull it (I think), or I just got tired and it seemed dull afterwards? Either way, I'll give it another shot, but I think I might be in search of a better way.

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[nape]

I've never used the Eastwood cutter, but the one from Blair works excellent: http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cut...ld_Cutters.html

#13224 is what I have. You just have to be careful when you flip the cutter over after you break a tooth off. If you squeeze too hard you'll break the cutter. Mildly expensive, but worth their weight in gold over drilling through then having to fill.

[axoid]

Kevin,
I'm sure your going to trailer the car to distant events, but are you going to use little trailer behind the car for local events? I have an old third gen hitch you can have for free if you want it.

[trackbird]

Kevin,
I'm sure your going to trailer the car to distant events, but are you going to use little trailer behind the car for local events? I have an old third gen hitch you can have for free if you want it.

Nah, I'll probably just drive it to local stuff. But I've got a draw bar that might fit your hitch that I'm trying to get rid of. Maybe we can make it a set for someone. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[trackbird]

Patch panels are on the firewall. Autometer shift light is installed where the vent used to be. Autometer oil pressure warning light is installed under the dash. I pulled the heater bypass valve and all of the associated plumbing that was lumped in there with it.

I've still got a lot of work to do.

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[Shortcutsleeping]

<parts-hound hat = ON>

So...uh...Kevin, it looks GREAT! But I mean really, that ugly old airbag steering wheel, WOW that is ug-LEE...I'm sure you are going to get a nice wheel for it and when you do, just remember, I'm here for you. I'll take that old stock wheel so you don't have to worry about it ANYmore... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

that is, as long as the foam inside it hasnt broken down and made it feel like the outside of the wheel isnt attached to the inside. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Lookin good!


Costas
cars and such...

[trackbird]

Costas,

That wheel was listed in several for sale threads. It's "leaving", I'm just not sure when. The leather sucks (worn through) and the air bag cover is a bit warped, but it's a real airbag wheel and if it's useful to you, send me a pm and let me know what it's worth and I'll see if a new wheel is in the budget yet.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[AndyJ]

<parts-hound hat = ON>

So...uh...Kevin, it looks GREAT! But I mean really, that ugly old airbag steering wheel, WOW that is ug-LEE...I'm sure you are going to get a nice wheel for it and when you do, just remember, I'm here for you. I'll take that old stock wheel so you don't have to worry about it ANYmore... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

that is, as long as the foam inside it hasnt broken down and made it feel like the outside of the wheel isnt attached to the inside. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Lookin good!


Costas
cars and such...

Paul,

Will a wheel out of a '96 work for you? Mine is coming out sometime this winter and it is still real decent.

[trackbird]

I'm noticing that the kid who originally owned/built this car was a real rocket scientist. The neutral safety switch was jumpered with one of those "golf keys". The little key with two prongs on it (I'm not a golfer, so I don't remember what it's for) and wrapped in electrical tape. The IAT wires have been extended, the ends were tinned with solder and plugged into the connector (just laying on the intake manifold.....you didn't do that did you Mike?). The cruise cut off switch (or clutch switch, not sure which one it was supposed to be) is just tied up under the dash and not installed into anything. The hole he cut for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall is about 50% larger than it should have been and I'm going to have to patch the firewall and make a new hole. It all works ok, but it is a less than ideal job. Other than that, and the random and misc. wires that seem to be everywhere, all is about normal. So, I'm doing a build up and clean up all in one shot.

I'm sure I'll find other stuff as I go along.(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Mojave]

I'm noticing that the kid who originally owned/built this car was a real rocket scientist. The neutral safety switch was jumpered with one of those "golf keys". The little key with two prongs on it (I'm not a golfer, so I don't remember what it's for) and wrapped in electrical tape. The IAT wires have been extended, the ends were tinned with solder and plugged into the connector (just laying on the intake manifold.....you didn't do that did you Mike?). The cruise cut off switch (or clutch switch, not sure which one it was supposed to be) is just tied up under the dash and not installed into anything. The hole he cut for the clutch master cylinder in the firewall is about 50% larger than it should have been and I'm going to have to patch the firewall and make a new hole. It all works ok, but it is a less than ideal job. Other than that, and the random and misc. wires that seem to be everywhere, all is about normal. So, I'm doing a build up and clean up all in one shot.

I'm sure I'll find other stuff as I go along.(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Sounds like a 3rd gen to me (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Shortcutsleeping]

Thanks, but a 96 won't work.

It's a 92, so for FStawk it has to have a 92 wheel in it. B4C2 has a wheel with the middle top all squishy and not really attached to the metal very good and it bugs me.

Kevin, if your wheel is in decent shape (besides wear) and you are replacing it, then let me know. I don't need the airbag, just the wheel.


Costas
cars and such...