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> The new to me 2002 Z28 (convertible)
trackbird
post Jul 27 2019, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE (landstuhltaylor @ Jul 24 2019, 02:01 PM) *
It's definitely not torque management which can be removed in SP and I assume ST as well. It's purely the ECU trying to figure out what you are really trying to do.

It's a real shame, because the chassis is clearly way more capable than the brains want it to be. I imagine it actually drives nicer on street tires though.


The throttle map in my Silverado is goofy like that. I never managed to determine if I was running into stability control or if it was the throttle mapping. When I'd turn a 90 degree corner and roll into the throttle, it wouldn't go anywhere. Then it would finally decide to move. I wondered if they were trying to keep you from turning a corner, booting the throttle and getting the tail out/rolling the truck? I eventually learned to drive around it.


As for the Camaro, the coolant bottle showed up last night. I am not at the UMI event because the car wasn't going to pass tech (and I had a funeral Thursday night and another friend/co-worker died yesterday so it's been a bad week). Today I'm going to power wash my mother in laws house and then try to get the new coolant bottle/battery tray in the Camaro. We'll see how that goes after I finish spraying down the house. But that's the plan.

I also ordered a new Battery Tender for the Optima red top battery that I bought the other day. I had a small version and the website showed that some of the older ones wouldn't charge certain batteries (depending on the amp/hour capacity of the battery). I'm just going to use that one for the battery in my generator and I'll use the larger one for the Camaro.
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Ojustracing
post Jul 27 2019, 01:51 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Jul 27 2019, 05:35 AM) *
QUOTE (landstuhltaylor @ Jul 24 2019, 02:01 PM) *
It's definitely not torque management which can be removed in SP and I assume ST as well. It's purely the ECU trying to figure out what you are really trying to do.

It's a real shame, because the chassis is clearly way more capable than the brains want it to be. I imagine it actually drives nicer on street tires though.


The throttle map in my Silverado is goofy like that. I never managed to determine if I was running into stability control or if it was the throttle mapping. When I'd turn a 90 degree corner and roll into the throttle, it wouldn't go anywhere. Then it would finally decide to move. I wondered if they were trying to keep you from turning a corner, booting the throttle and getting the tail out/rolling the truck? I eventually learned to drive around it.





Kevin What you are describing is more Stability control. My Tahoe PPV does that too. My commute home has me hit this same turn. left turn with a small bump(10-12mph) My stability control was deactivated(cant turn off) and I couldn't believe the difference how intrusive it really is. I have come up with a way that disables the stability control while still having ABS function. But it has bells and whistles on. But it drives so much better in just normal driving.
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trackbird
post Jul 28 2019, 07:21 PM
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I finally got time to install the new coolant bottle. Of course it doesn't come with the rubber grommet that seals the coolant overflow tube into place and the old one was just hard enough that it didn't want to come out (much like putting an air lid on these cars and trying to get the grommet out for the intake air temp sensor). I wound up cutting the old coolant bottle apart and busting apart the plastic section that held the grommet so I could get it out. I managed to get it installed into the new bottle, dropped it in place and transferred the battery hold down tab and bolt.

While it was out, I added a battery tender terminal by placing a ring terminal on the battery input to the fuse box on the drivers side (under the protective red cap) and placing the ground on the radiator support under the bolt for a factory ground. This will allow me to open the hood and plug the battery tender right into the car instead of using battery clip leads each time. I did this because I wanted to simplify hooking up the charger. I use a battery tender all winter, but in the summer I usually drive the car enough that I don't use the charger when it's parked. However, sometimes it sits for a few weeks and that likely allows the battery to drain a decent amount. It will still start just fine, but the alternator may feed it a fairly high charge rate. I'm thinking that high charge rate each time I drive it could be what killed the battery. The battery that was in the car was at least 7 years old when I purchased it. I replaced it with an Interstate battery because they have always been good to me. This is the first one that hasn't lasted.
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CrashTestDummy
post Jul 29 2019, 02:03 PM
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Hmm, I seem to remember something similar when I replaced the overflow reservoir on our 95! I think it was the grommet between the reservoir and the fill neck, but do remember having to take a sawsall to it to get something out of it.

We keep everything not daily driven on battery tenders. They really do extend the lives of the batteries. We do find, however, when they die, it's usually a pretty instantaneous death, and very rarely having the battery just start acting like it's getting weak. That bit us once when we went to an autocross event. Drove the car onto the trailer under it's own power the day before, and the starter solenoid wouldn't even click when I hit the button. I couldn't even jump start the thing.

Had a friend who was doing some work on his regular ride, so he was going to co-drive with me for that event. After we were done with registration, I turned to him and said "I'll go see if the old heap will start." Damned if it didn't! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I did what you did on the Firebird. When the battery was in the spare tire well, I always wanted to modify the right rear corner marker light to be a bulkhead connector for the tender, but never got around to that. Now that the battery is in the right back seat well, I just have the cable zip-tied to the roll bar and reach in through the passenger window to connect/disconnect it to the tender.
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trackbird
post Nov 16 2019, 06:04 PM
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I'm starting to wonder why I live in Ohio. It was super hot and miserable all summer, then we got about 3 days of decent weather and then temps dropped into the freezing range. I don't think I had it out of the garage more than five or six times this year. The last time I drove it was to top it off with fuel and Stabil for the winter. It was cold and I had tire spin issues all the way across the street from my gas station to my neighborhood. Cold summer tires get pretty slick. I want to toss fresh tires on it in the spring, these are 3 years old, but have tons of tread.

The question is, do I keep it or do I consider sending it to a new home and going in search of something else?

I've had a crazy idea about stuffing a Mustang Ecoboost 4 cylinder in a Miata and cranking it up to 400-500 hp. It seems like it would be absolute insanity and a really good time. And, I'm assuming (but don't know) that the engine should be an easy fit overall.
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GCrites80s
post Nov 18 2019, 03:33 AM
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Ha, I was just driving around in the semi-cold on the 4-year old worn NT05s. The car was sliding in a 4 wheel drift around slow 90s and all I could think was "Just let it do its thing like a race quad"
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CrashTestDummy
post Nov 18 2019, 03:17 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Nov 16 2019, 12:04 PM) *
I'm starting to wonder why I live in Ohio. It was super hot and miserable all summer, then we got about 3 days of decent weather and then temps dropped into the freezing range. I don't think I had it out of the garage more than five or six times this year. The last time I drove it was to top it off with fuel and Stabil for the winter. It was cold and I had tire spin issues all the way across the street from my gas station to my neighborhood. Cold summer tires get pretty slick. I want to toss fresh tires on it in the spring, these are 3 years old, but have tons of tread.

The question is, do I keep it or do I consider sending it to a new home and going in search of something else?

I've had a crazy idea about stuffing a Mustang Ecoboost 4 cylinder in a Miata and cranking it up to 400-500 hp. It seems like it would be absolute insanity and a really good time. And, I'm assuming (but don't know) that the engine should be an easy fit overall.

^^ Crazy indeed! I don't know for certain, but have read anecdotally that the EB 2.3 is a tall engine. So tall, in fact that it won't fit into a Fox Mustang chassis without a fair amount of movement down and back from the factory location for the OEM 2.3L engine. Even then, a different hood may be required. I'd say you're better off dropping a Mazda 2.5L into one, but have read that the 2.5 head doesn't flow as well as the factory Miata head. Many years ago, one of the guys in our local SCCA Region had a Miata with the Flying Miata turbo kit. The thing was stupid fast back then (maybe 10 years ago?). I can imagine they've only gotten better with time.

When we had our 95, my wife would pretty much only drive it in the winter time. You'd cook in your own sweat when driving with the top down during the summer. Although I only did it once, and would never do it again, she'd drive it to work with the heat cranked up and the top down on nice winter days. We don't get 'stupid cold' like Ohio but a few days out of the year here, though, but we did run summer tires on it all the time (one set on Vette knock-off wheels were Nitto 555's, IIRC). It was going to spin the tires anyway. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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79T/A
post Nov 18 2019, 06:51 PM
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I’ve been wanting to put the 1.5 turbo from a new Civic Si in a Miata. It’s such a tiny engine and it makes great power and has plenty of aftermarket tuning support. Many shops with 300+ wheel HP out of a 1.5 liter engine.
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GCrites80s
post Nov 19 2019, 02:44 AM
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Mom's Accord pulls like a freight train for a 1.5, and that's non-Si trim in a 400+ lb. heavier car.
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79T/A
post Nov 19 2019, 03:08 AM
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It’s a seriously impressive little engine, and you can get another 55 hp and 75 tq at the wheels from just a plug-in tune. My car is bone stock and it has great acceleration for what it is, I’ve had it up to 140 and it was still pulling pretty good. Not to mention the damn thing averages 37.5 mpg and I’m not exactly the most fuel conscious driver. That engine is begging to be swapped into a fun little RWD car. It’s so small and compact it should fit anywhere.
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GCrites80s
post Nov 19 2019, 05:04 AM
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It's comparable to a Hayabusa engine with way more torque and sold to the masses.
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landstuhltaylor
post Nov 21 2019, 08:55 PM
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I've basically decided to sell the M3 for the same reasons. I don't have time to take it out and enjoy it.

With all these engine swap ideas I really wish someone had wanted my wrecked 1.0T Fiesta. That powertrain was just begging to be swapped into something stupid.
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trackbird
post Dec 28 2019, 06:13 PM
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So, you reach a time in every "project cars" life where you wonder what to do next. I've had a string of mostly finished projects and then this one. This one is "done", or it could be. Is it? Now I'm wondering if it's time to find something else to play with or move this one to the next plateau? We've been discussing some fun engine swaps and I've had the itch to build a kit car (Cobra or something fun....like a "Radical"....but a cheaper version. lol). I have welders and have had an itch to get back to fabricating things and doing some welding.

So, do I consider putting a roll bar in this car so I can do fun things with it? It's still a heavy pig, but it could be fun for some events with a roll bar. On the other hand, it's a truly rust free and immaculate car and I'm not wanting to "cut it up". I've considered putting the bar in and welding in floor plates such that I can cut a roll bar out, grind it down and put new carpet back over it at a later date. I'm not saying this car will eventually be valuable, but people didn't think their '69 Camaro would be valuable when they cut it up as a race car either.

Plan B. A small cam and maybe heads? I'd love this car to have 50 or so additional HP. But I don't want to do headers (and deal with scraping or leaking). So I'd want to do a small enough cam to keep the cats and avoid any low end drivability issues. I'm guessing something like a 216/220 around 500 lift. Something that won't tear up valve springs and I can drive anywhere.

Or do I sell it and look for the next interesting thing? I mean, it's all set up. Coilovers, Stoptech brakes, suspension, etc. It's a really driveable car that is ready for anything and it's fun.
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00 SS
post Dec 28 2019, 10:44 PM
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At some point, I think a car should be "done" at least for any individual. I've been simply trying to enjoy mine for a few years now and it's been great. It's getting close to to time for some serious maintenance and maybe new shocks and it has me thinking small upgrades again. I don't drive it a ton, but I do love taking it out when I can. I'm keeping mine, but I may get a new project, or turn my old truck into a project. Getting rid of my SS is just not going to happen, I love it too much.
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trackbird
post Dec 29 2019, 03:12 AM
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This is basically done. I'd like to get the Rocketman adapters installed with the Xtracker front bearings. I'd like more power and maybe a watts link. And if I wanted to play in CAM or do a track day, I need a roll bar. Hence I'm creeping up on a cross roads.
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SuperMacGuy
post Dec 29 2019, 05:07 PM
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Don't cut it up, don't open the engine. I'd say just leave it. Hubs would be OK b/c those are 100% bolt on, and sooner or later... But the rest, just enjoy. Keep it clean, drive it and be worry free. Find a new really cool project, something different. At least I'd do something really different. Like an Exocet, Exovette, or electric Exocet type thing.
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CrashTestDummy
post Dec 30 2019, 05:17 PM
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QUOTE (SuperMacGuy @ Dec 29 2019, 11:07 AM) *
Don't cut it up, don't open the engine. I'd say just leave it. Hubs would be OK b/c those are 100% bolt on, and sooner or later... But the rest, just enjoy. Keep it clean, drive it and be worry free. Find a new really cool project, something different. At least I'd do something really different. Like an Exocet, Exovette, or electric Exocet type thing.


+1! Don't cut it up. It'll never be a 'race car' unless you _really_ do some surgery. It can be a fun toy, though, and a nice top-down cruiser. As you say, it's heavy. that was what surprised me about our '95, how heavy it felt.

I don't keep up with the rules, so don't know, but do you need a roll bar for CAM, or is it simply a place to connect harnesses to? Our 95 had a bolt-in 4-point, which seemed pretty decent. The back seat was only good for the pups, though, after that. It all fit under the top, too.

But that's just my opinion.
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mikedamageinc
post Dec 31 2019, 12:29 AM
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Don't cut it! You know how that story goes, once you start...

Is that your only "fun" car? If so keep it for a fun daily/weekender and get a toy for track/autox.

I'm trying to decide myself what to do. My Camaro is halfway between street and track, and I really want a C5 dedicated track car and keep my Camaro for fun driving on the street. I ran that by the misses and shes ok with the C5 track car but the Camaro has to go! Needless to say I gotta keep working on that! I also thought about making my Camaro a CMC car, then I can someday come home with another fun street car and say it just followed me home
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trackbird
post Dec 31 2019, 01:09 AM
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QUOTE (CrashTestDummy @ Dec 30 2019, 12:17 PM) *
+1! Don't cut it up. It'll never be a 'race car' unless you _really_ do some surgery. It can be a fun toy, though, and a nice top-down cruiser. As you say, it's heavy. that was what surprised me about our '95, how heavy it felt.


Yea, I'm not talking about truly cutting it up into a race car. Just the next evolution of a street car. It's big, it's fat, it's heavy....and it's never going to be competitive.

QUOTE (CrashTestDummy @ Dec 30 2019, 12:17 PM) *
I don't keep up with the rules, so don't know, but do you need a roll bar for CAM, or is it simply a place to connect harnesses to? Our 95 had a bolt-in 4-point, which seemed pretty decent. The back seat was only good for the pups, though, after that. It all fit under the top, too.

But that's just my opinion.


Cam requires a bar and HDPE requires a bar. Thus, I am stuck with "just driving it". Now, it's fun to drive and it's super streetable with the current setup. It's actually what GM should have built from the factory. It doesn't squeak, no rattles, no clunks, it goes when you go, stops (Thanks Stoptech!) when you stop and turns (Thanks UMI!) when you turn. It has reflexes and is much improved from the wallowy factory float-box that GM sold as a Z28 convertible.

Thus, maybe it is done. Sadly, I feel like it could be worth money (in 20 years) if I sit on it. Or not. And my bride even said she thinks we will continue with a fun car, but probably not "this one". So maybe I should consider selling it. I don't know... In bad news, the last time I added up the parts list for this car, I think I had $25k and change in it....and I've spent a decent amount of money since then. I refuse to part it out, so I'd have to sell it as is (or swap in a stock radiator, stock brakes, etc and sell it "more stock"....but I'm also lazy these days). If it just had a roof/T-tops, I could actually do more fun things with it.

I've been meaning to go to the local drag strip and see if I can get thrown out. 12.99 in a convertible with no bar should get you tossed. It "should" run that, but I'm not sure if it will using the current suspension and the current driver. lol.
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trackbird
post Dec 31 2019, 02:25 AM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Jan 27 2017, 09:35 AM) *
At one point I gave the cost breakdown to that point. I guess I'll try to update it here (I probably don't want to know).

I was trying to keep this sane and stay accountable, so I'll update the totals for those who are following along (it's worse than I realized...but it always is):

$11,500 - Car
$199 - UMI PHB
$499 - UMI SFC
$389 - UMI Swaybars
$249 - UMI Aluminum sway bar mounts
$1849 - UMI Shocks/springs (coil overs)
$200 - B&M Ripper shifter
$40 - Hurst Shift knob
$150 - 10 bolt girdle
$550 - 10 spoke wheels
$650 - wheel refinishing
$450 - new tires
$99 - iPod adapter
$99 - SLP "lid"
$79 - UMI STB
$200 - Stoptech pads (F&R) and new front rotors
$20 - SLP license plate bracket
$39 - SLP TCS disable module
$20 - Jegs skip shift delete
$199 - UMI Poly/Rotojoint LCA's
$180 - Ram adjustable master cylinder
$150 - Ram slave and throw out bearing
$389 - Fidanza flywheel
$460 - Centerforce dual friction clutch
$700 - Stage 2 transmission upgrade (parts only)
$30 - Hawks clutch reservoir
$550 - Dewitt's 2 core aluminum radiator
$375 - C&R Power Steering cooler
$140 - OEM heater hoses
$18 - heater hose to throttle body
$25 - radiator hoses
$150 - Holley Water pump
$450 - Rocketman hub adapters
$130 - used spindles
$175 - Moog front end rebuilt parts
$1200 - Stoptech Brake Kit
$200 - Stoptech rear rotors
$149 - Diablosport tune
$417 - Hooker cat back
$420 - ATI Balancer
$500 - 10 spoke wheels (second set)
$100 - ARP Wheel Studs
$70 - Wheel Spacers
$300 - Key Audio Speakers
$200 - Optima Red Top



$24,553
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