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> The new to me 2002 Z28 (convertible)
trackbird
post Mar 14 2018, 11:41 AM
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QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 09:06 PM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 13 2018, 06:57 PM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 05:10 PM) *
Understood. I do like the oil to water cooler you got


I tend to use the "sledgehammer to kill a fly" approach. When the PS system started leaking, I decided to replace virtually all of it. I didn't realize it was the cooler causing the leak until after I bought all the other parts. So...time to upgrade. lol.


when in doubt, leave nothing out


I can tell that we will get along just fine. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I need to replace some rubber brake lines (they are also 16 years old). I debated braided, but I think I'm just going to put fresh rubber lines on it.
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dojob
post Mar 14 2018, 12:54 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 07:41 AM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 09:06 PM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 13 2018, 06:57 PM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 05:10 PM) *
Understood. I do like the oil to water cooler you got


I tend to use the "sledgehammer to kill a fly" approach. When the PS system started leaking, I decided to replace virtually all of it. I didn't realize it was the cooler causing the leak until after I bought all the other parts. So...time to upgrade. lol.


when in doubt, leave nothing out


I can tell that we will get along just fine. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I need to replace some rubber brake lines (they are also 16 years old). I debated braided, but I think I'm just going to put fresh rubber lines on it.



Ha. If I'm spending the time, it'll be done once. More money is an investment in the piece of mind.

Same with those brake lines, when I swap mine, braided. Not risking blowing one, if/when it ever gets on the track. And stock lines can be paired to the ats/c7 or c7 z51 calipers as well.
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trackbird
post Mar 14 2018, 01:35 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 07:41 AM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 09:06 PM) *


I need to replace some rubber brake lines (they are also 16 years old). I debated braided, but I think I'm just going to put fresh rubber lines on it.



Ha. If I'm spending the time, it'll be done once. More money is an investment in the piece of mind.

Same with those brake lines, when I swap mine, braided. Not risking blowing one, if/when it ever gets on the track. And stock lines can be paired to the ats/c7 or c7 z51 calipers as well.


I've seen more braided lines fail than I've ever seen rubber lines fail. That's the issue I have. I've seen a few blown braided hoses. Thus, I feel like an OEM rubber line is best in most cases for street use. My Stoptech brakes came with their own dedicated braided lines, so I have those on the car. But I'm not sure I want to add any others.
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CrashTestDummy
post Mar 14 2018, 02:43 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 08:35 AM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 07:41 AM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 13 2018, 09:06 PM) *


I need to replace some rubber brake lines (they are also 16 years old). I debated braided, but I think I'm just going to put fresh rubber lines on it.



Ha. If I'm spending the time, it'll be done once. More money is an investment in the piece of mind.

Same with those brake lines, when I swap mine, braided. Not risking blowing one, if/when it ever gets on the track. And stock lines can be paired to the ats/c7 or c7 z51 calipers as well.


I've seen more braided lines fail than I've ever seen rubber lines fail. That's the issue I have. I've seen a few blown braided hoses. Thus, I feel like an OEM rubber line is best in most cases for street use. My Stoptech brakes came with their own dedicated braided lines, so I have those on the car. But I'm not sure I want to add any others.


Unless it's a set of Dodge brake hoses, yes, the rubber lines, are probably safer. We had a OEM hose collapse on our 3000 mile (yes, that's right) 98 Dakota R/T. I discovered that it's a pretty common occurrence on 90's & 2000's Dakotas/Durangos. Luckily, I was able to get a set of Goodridge hoses built.

I do tend to go for the 'pretty' when replacing brake parts, though, so will probably go with braided lines on the Caprice when the CTS brakes go on it.
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dojob
post Mar 14 2018, 02:54 PM
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Spooky if braided lines are failing
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CrashTestDummy
post Mar 14 2018, 03:10 PM
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QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 14 2018, 09:54 AM) *
Spooky if braided lines are failing


Many are not DOT-approved. But yeah, they fail too often.
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dojob
post Mar 14 2018, 05:28 PM
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QUOTE (CrashTestDummy @ Mar 14 2018, 11:10 AM) *
QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 14 2018, 09:54 AM) *
Spooky if braided lines are failing


Many are not DOT-approved. But yeah, they fail too often.


Understood.

Funny you say that... these say meet "DOT requirements". Not that they were approved
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-6922...et/model/camaro
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trackbird
post Mar 14 2018, 06:31 PM
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This crash happened after new DOT approved brake hoses were installed as a "preventative measure".

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=14156

Guess the old hoses were a better option, but you replace things for safety...unless they cause the safety issue. This was really awful, it was a beautiful car. The driver did survive with minimal injuries, but what a waste.
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dojob
post Mar 20 2018, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 02:31 PM) *
This crash happened after new DOT approved brake hoses were installed as a "preventative measure".

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=14156

Guess the old hoses were a better option, but you replace things for safety...unless they cause the safety issue. This was really awful, it was a beautiful car. The driver did survive with minimal injuries, but what a waste.


Yea, i remember seeing that thread. Terrible accident. Glad he was OK

These Goodrididge lines are DOT and TUV certified
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...mp;autoModClar=

So you think, even for track duty replacement rubber hoses are safer? I'm in the same boat as you, 19 yr old car with stock lines still.
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trackbird
post Mar 20 2018, 11:09 PM
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QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 20 2018, 11:15 AM) *
QUOTE (trackbird @ Mar 14 2018, 02:31 PM) *
This crash happened after new DOT approved brake hoses were installed as a "preventative measure".

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=14156

Guess the old hoses were a better option, but you replace things for safety...unless they cause the safety issue. This was really awful, it was a beautiful car. The driver did survive with minimal injuries, but what a waste.


Yea, i remember seeing that thread. Terrible accident. Glad he was OK

These Goodrididge lines are DOT and TUV certified
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...mp;autoModClar=

So you think, even for track duty replacement rubber hoses are safer? I'm in the same boat as you, 19 yr old car with stock lines still.



I'm a little torn. I've run the Wilwood kit on my original 2002 Camaro with braided lines (this was an "aftermarket" Wilwood based kit that had "matching" lines with it). I had no issues. But the rest of the car had stock lines on it. The current car has Stoptech brakes and their hoses (which seem like decent hoses). I considered adding the Stoptech rear lines....but I just can't bring myself to do it.

My 1992 Z28 ran rubber lines (besides the front brake kit from Ed Miller brakes) and for track and autocross use it was fine and one of my friends who drove the car said "I want to compliment whoever bled your brakes....that's the best brake pedal I've ever felt in a 3rd gen". And that was with mostly rubber lines on the car...and none failed me.

The other issue is...cheap rubber brake lines aren't likely much (if any) better. You'll want to buy quality replacements. Now, we just need to sort out what exactly those are...

So, if I could walk into the GM dealer and buy new OEM hoses...I'd absolutely do that today. Since we can't and the new "AC Delco stuff" seems to be Chinese, I'm not sure that's the answer.

So my rubber hose "theory" has some challenges these days and I'm not sure I have a good answer beyond the theoretical.
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dojob
post Mar 21 2018, 12:51 AM
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I'm an oem fan and that's my dilemma too. No quality rubber options IMO
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GCrites80s
post Mar 21 2018, 01:49 AM
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I can't pinpoint exactly where it was to create links but I've seen some anti-SS line talk over at the Grassroots Motorsports forum as well.
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dojob
post Mar 21 2018, 01:11 PM
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QUOTE (GCrites80s @ Mar 20 2018, 09:49 PM) *
I can't pinpoint exactly where it was to create links but I've seen some anti-SS line talk over at the Grassroots Motorsports forum as well.


Interesting topic this has become. Never heard of these issues. Good to know though.

Sorry to muddy your thread up trackbird
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trackbird
post Mar 21 2018, 01:53 PM
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QUOTE (dojob @ Mar 21 2018, 09:11 AM) *
QUOTE (GCrites80s @ Mar 20 2018, 09:49 PM) *
I can't pinpoint exactly where it was to create links but I've seen some anti-SS line talk over at the Grassroots Motorsports forum as well.


Interesting topic this has become. Never heard of these issues. Good to know though.

Sorry to muddy your thread up trackbird


No apology needed. These threads and projects take a meandering path to completion. As long as there's good tech and interesting info being exchanged it's ok with me. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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mikedamageinc
post Mar 21 2018, 02:48 PM
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I've had a set of Goodridge braided caliper lines (C5 spec) and Hotpart axle lines for nearly 10 years of street/autox and track use just in the last year without issue. The hotpart lines had a plastic coating on them and I added hose protection for the Goodridge lines just for an extra layer. Not that this is definitive but just thought I'd throw in my experience.
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trackbird
post Mar 27 2018, 10:46 PM
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I finally got time to install the power steering cooler that C&R modified and returned to me. It fits great. I installed the coolant hoses and finished the power steering installation. Belts are back in place. While I was in there, I figured I'd install the new plugs and wires. That's when I found out that the idiot techs who put the engine in this car decided to discard the heat shields and didn't use dielectric grease on the plug wires. Therefore, they were all stuck such that I had to break off a few of the plugs to get the wrench on them to remove them. I also knew that the K member was in this car a little off center. It's off center to the passengers side. This made things extra difficult. The last time I did plugs in one of these cars it took me about an hour, yesterday took about 6 hours. I wasn't amused.

However, at this point all I need to do is to install the air cleaner and remaining parts and it's ready to go...as far as that stuff goes.

I still have rear brake rotors to install and a rear diff cover to seal up and I think I'm about done with the current list of winter projects.
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landstuhltaylor
post Mar 28 2018, 12:40 PM
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I'm pretty sure the K in mine is a bit off center as well. I've been too lazy to go back in and fix it.
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trackbird
post Mar 29 2018, 12:49 AM
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I started on the exhaust today....

The SLP box had been somewhat damaged when it arrived (for the SLP Y pipe). I opened it and it looked fine, so I didn't worry much about it. Upon starting the install, I noticed that the paperwork and hardware wasn't in the box. SLP is sending it to me, but that's going to keep me from starting the car for a little bit longer.

I started on the Hooker exhaust kit and noticed that the instructions are pretty basic (not that I usually need instructions for an exhaust kit). They say to reuse the hangar from the passengers side rear (by the muffler) but to replace the stud with their bolt (easier said than done). Then I looked at the bag of hardware and noticed that they now include a new bracket for that part, but they didn't add a second bolt to the kit to attach it. Then I looked at the included clamps...they sent me three 3" clamps. The Y pipe to exhaust should be 3", and the main pipe to the "over axle pipe" should be 3" (though the included clamps are actually just a bit small to do the job, it looks like a 3 1/8 or a 3 1/4" clamp would be a better guess. That leaves the pipes out of the muffler to the under bumper exit. Those are 2.5" pipes, but I have 3" clamps. lol.

So, I bought some bolts and clamps and I'll get it all together (pending the arrival of the hardware from SLP).

I guess this is typical of how these projects go...so I guess I'd hate to have been disappointed. lol.
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trackbird
post Apr 5 2018, 04:32 PM
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My SLP parts showed up today. Oddly, it says it's a hardware kit for a 2000 Camaro. I think (from memory) the y pipes are 98-99, 2000, and 01-02. But it's just a clamp and a couple bolts, so I think it's going to do the trick.

I also noticed that the Hooker tailpipes (from the muffler out under the bumper) seem a little "off". The passengers side pipe is hard against the spare tire well and I don't believe the pipes are going to wind up in the same place (as viewed from behind). Once I get this all in place, I need to see if I can cut 1/2" to 1.5" off of the passenger side pipe to line it up with the drivers side (but I can't cut it too short or it won't clear the 3" pipe that comes over the axle). I considered a Magnaflow kit for this car, but the Hooker made good power on the 2001 SS I had and I liked the sound. The Magnaflow on my '91 Corvette was a bit too loud. I'm starting to wish I had just bought the Magnaflow kit (there's still time, it's not over yet!). lol.
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trackbird
post Apr 9 2018, 11:01 AM
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I spent about 5 hours in the garage Saturday trying to wrap up the exhaust installation. The SLP Y pipe would tuck up better on the drivers side if it wasn't for the brake lines, they are the lowest thing in that "notch" between the sub frame and the chassis. The hooker exhaust kit had tailpipes that were two different lengths to the point that the exhaust tips would be wildly different as far as how far they stuck out from under the bumper. The stock "band clamp" from the factory exhaust doesn't clamp the hooker kit to the SLP y pipe "at all", it's not even tight (and I ran the band down with a 3/8 impact). And the Hooker kit is basically too short and only engages the SLP Y pipe by about 3/8" (see attached photo). So, I ordered a 2.75" "lap joint" band clamp. It's supposed to join a slip fit connection of a 2.75" pipe to a pipe that's flared to slip over it. That should do the trick. Otherwise I'm wondering about opening up the SLP pipe to 3 (have a shop do it or just tig on a new pipe after I open it up) and cutting the stepped portion off of the hooker kit. Clamps should be here tomorrow (with any luck).
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