Amsoil opinions..... Options

[rpoz-29]

Anyone here have any experience with Amsoil products? I'm a little curious about their PS fluid, and motor oil.

[Crazy Canuck]

used it when had motorcycle... worked well... but ended up going with motul... well rated and much cheaper.
Everyone seems to say it's excellent but pricey, in the bike industry... in car industry, i don't hear it much.

[mitchntx]

I began running their 2000 series 20W50 in the CMC car middle of last year.

My sponsor offered it to me at cost, which is less than Mobil 1 15W50 at Wal-Mart.

I run 3 weekends on a change. That would be 9 races (6 20 minute and 3 40 minute), 6 qualifying session, 3 practice sessions and typically a handful of TnT sessions. Each session, the temps see 300* as measured in the oil pan.

The last change, I took a sample, but have yet to send it to Blackstone ...

If it weren't for my sponsor, I wouldn't use it as it is very pricey. But it really does seem to hold up well.

At 300 degrees, I'm seeing 30psi at idle.

[trackbird]

Pimpmaro here on the board is an amsoil dealer (shameless plug). If you need anything, he may be able to help you out.

[Pilot]

Sorry I didn't see this earlier, I have a final exam today but after that I'm done for the quarter. If you need any information or just have some questions I'm happy to talk shop about it. Just shoot me a PM or an email.

I'll probably be back in this thread later today. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[00 SS]

I've been using the 10w-30 full syn in both cars for about a year. We have a local rep that gets it for me for less than I was paying for M-1. So far I'm very happy with it. They also have rediesigned filters which seem very good, but they are a bit pricey.

[Mericet]

I use their oils in all my cars and have been very happy with them.

[Pilot]

I don't want to come off as trying to slide a sales pitch in, but I actually became a dealer because of the research I had done on Amsoil when I was looking into purchasing it for use in my car. The downside was I couldn't find any dealers near me at the time, then I was talked into it by a coworker at the airport who is actually my sponsor dealer.

Concerning the lubes, I've always found that Amsoil's test numbers greatly exceed the numbers produced by the majority of other lubricants. Those other oils that are in the same ballpark as amsoil are only marginally better in only some of the tests. The tests I'm referring to include the 4 ball wear test, the Noack volatility test, the pour point, flash point, and fire point. The other numbers I looked at were the viscosity ratings on the cst scale. I found out that mobil 1 5w30 is actually extremely low in the cst range for that weight oil. That means that as the oil wears, it thins out to below the recommended range for a 30 weight oil and below what I would be comfortable with using in my car. I'll be the first to admit that there definitly are other good oils out there, but those numbers are the ones I'd look at heavily to make my decision, that and oil analysis. I can't remember who Amsoil uses, but I use blackstone. I've been with them before I ever started dealing amsoil and I prefer to have an opinion from someone not affiliated with the oil company.

In terms of the filters, we just came out with a line of what's called nano fiber filters. The idea is to get a filter that can trap smaller particles and provide more flow. They use stronger, thinner fibers packed in a more dense weave. The result is a higher percentage of flow area in the filter versus the area consumed by the media, but at the same time, the openings between the media fibers are smaller which trap the smaller particles. The new oil filters are designed to be used up to 25,000 mile intervals (I won't go that long with autocrossing) and the new air filters are designed to go 100,000 miles with only blowing them out with air to clean them. No more oils, which by the way is my pet peeve with the K&N line. I know K&N flows more than a paper filter with no oil (as they always are in the "test stand" displays at the store), but I'm not so sure that once you oil them, they flow any more than a paper filter. Personally, I use a purolator air filter right now.

Oh that's probably enough boring reading for you all for now. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rushman]

No hard evidence to back it up, but my 2 favorites are amsoil 5-30 and when I can find it the german castrol 0-30 that everyone raves about. I've come accross it a few times, and buy the place out when I do.

For me, both idle at just under 40psi when hot (80deg day, back to back to back autocross runs idling in between). My car is quite the piston slapper, neither seem to make it any better. I did notice a difference cold starting in the winter when I switched to the castrol 0 weight from m1 5-30. The m1 0-40 was pretty good too though, and is my 3rd choice when I am fealing cheap or lazy.

[Sam Strano]

I'm a Redline guy..... Many reasons, but anyone who saw what it dealt with about 8-10 years ago in Dyson Racing's Riley during the Daytona 24 will be more than convinced.But any prototype that can run for 6 hours or so in any condition, let alone those with 2 dropped valves in 2 different cylinders tells me something about the oil. Something kept that engine semi-alive..........

That's not the only reason I run it but it's a glaring example.

[Pilot]

Sam, mostly what I've heard about Redline is that it is excellent as well. I've run it in my car and I had absolutely no problems with it. I know what you mean though about the engine story. Since I became a dealer, I've heard quite a few stories about amsoil as well, everything ranging from one of my sponsor dealers having an off shore racing boat he was sponsoring that lost an oil pump halfway through the race and the engine stayed together all the way to one of my customers gaining 3 mpg when the only thing he did was change to amsoil motor oil, not even changing his other lubes. While hardly scientific, I do think they're good reassurance stories for those of us who swear by our oils. IMO, there are a few oils in the top tier that will all hold together under extreme circumstances and I wouldn't turn my nose up at any of them. At the same time, I obviously have my preference... heh. That's why I wouldn't settle for middle tier oil... which after looking into it, I consider M1 to be (upper end of the range, but I have my biases... Kevin... are you listening? Huh? No more M1 for you!).

[trackbird]

I convinced Brion to look into changing the race car over to M1 many years ago. He finally did his research and made the switch. I've seen the car come into the pits/paddock with the 275 degree oil temp gauge pinned (well past 275) where it stayed for 1/2 hour (mechanical gauge from autometer) after the car was shut down. The oil came out the same color it went in (not scientific), and until recently, the motors have stayed together perfectly (the recent problems were not oil related, they were dumb luck related, we had a distributor hold down bend and allow the timing to advance, we lost a freeze plug out of a head, we had a head stud pull out of the block, we had a water neck break and drain the coolant out of the motor and ran 4 laps with no water, etc).

I'd run redline, etc, but I've had good luck with M1 so far.

[Pilot]

Blah blah blah... oil comes out the same color... you know that doesn't mean anything! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

[sgarnett]

I run Redline in my car, and M1 in my lawnmower and stuff like that. I'm a big fan of synthetics in general, ever since performing my own loss of oil pressure "endurance test" (several years apart on different cars).

In the dino car, I had to drive about half a block before I could safely pull off the road. That was enough to weld the crankshaft to the bearings.

In the synth car (running Syntec), I drove quite a bit further (in my morning fog) without ever noticing that the guage in front of the gearshift had dropped to zero. I noticed the slick when I was the last to leave work that evening, the night before Thanksgiving. I followed the trail while waiting for my ride to show up (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) After (miraculously) locating a used drain plug for a defunct import car and adding oil, it fired right up and I drove it home. I later checked the compression and it hadn't changed.

I also used to have an old Subaru with valves that would clatter for the first 20 seconds after the first start of the morning running dino. I could hear the exact moment when the oil reached them (or possibly the hydraulic lifters, if it had them). With synthetic (M1, I think), I never heard them at all.

The only engine (with 1, 3, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders) I don't use synth in is my high mileage Dodge. It doesn't seem to have any major oil leaks, but the 5.9 is notorious for leaking into the manifold. Because I don't know what it ran before I got it, I don't want to take a chance on cleaning out the dirt that's plugging the leaks.

My car has one of the "oil-fired" LS1s that needs all the viscosity stability it can get. I also work it hard on Sundays, so it get's the good stuff in 10W-40 (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) One of the main local autocross event sponsors (and the only local speed shop that isn't drag, dirt, or pimp oriented, ) stocks Redline at a competitive price and their shop is on my way to work. That makes Redline the clear winner, and I do think I'm using less oil with Redline than I did with M1 or Royal Purple. The other engines get M1.

I'd run ANY synthetic before ANY dino oil, but I've never had a reason or occasion to try Amsoil.

I also run Redline PS and diff oils, but I use an arcane mix of 3 quarts Pennzoil Synchromesh plus 1 quart Havoline D3 dino ATF in the T56. I blew a hose off the fill pump, made an AWFUL mess, and had to top off with what I had on hand. Pennzoil confimed that there were no chemical compatibility issues and it shifts fine, so I'm still running it (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif)

This post has been edited by sgarnett: Jun 7 2006, 10:40 AM

[trackbird]

Blah blah blah... oil comes out the same color... you know that doesn't mean anything! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Nope, but that little 302 lived for 3+ years of racing (many track hours) with an 8,000 rpm redline (or so) and only died when it snapped a rod bolt. So, even with the elevated temps, we finally stretched a rod bolt to death, but the motor was running strong until that bolt fractured (the bearing didn't spin). And you know Brion's ability to blow stuff up. So, that little motor took a beating on M1 and never seemed to care one bit.

[pknowles]

I agree with Sean, I'm crazy about synthetics. I've never heard anything bad about Amsoil. I use Redline in the Camaro because it's easier to get and costs about the same as Amsoil. I use Valvoline synthetic oil in my truck and the wifes Honda becuase I don't need the super high temp protection of Redline in either of those vehicles.

[trackbird]

In 1980, we bought a "Buck" woodstove (my parents did). In reading the book, dad stumbled across the note that you are supposed to pull the unit, remove the fan and motor and lube the motor with oil (due to the extreme heat seen by the blower on the back of the firebox). They specifically told you to use Mobile 1 for this purpose. So, for about 20 years, dad had a can (yes a real can) with an oil spout shoved in it sitting on the shelf in our garage. It worked great on that stove and never seemed to mind the extreme heat (and this was the 1980 forumulation). M1 has been making oil for a long time and if they are not the best, they surely are not the worst. I run it because it works for me in my applications. I'd rather run Redline, but I'm cheap. I'd consider Amsoil, but it's too frustrating to get it. I tend to buy oil on "oil change day" (which was last night in our VW) and not in advance. That alone pretry much rules out Amsoil for me.

[robz71lm7]

I run XYZ and haven't had an issue or the color/smell is nice. Oil can be black and have a lot more life left or it can be amber and ready to be changed.

I run the german made 0w30 Castrol Syntec year round. It's provided the best oil analysis results in my particular car (and a lot of other LT1/LS1 cars) for my use. Mobil 1 did a decent job as well, but it could've been better. I've been meaning to switch over to Redline and run an analysis on it, but the numbers I have right now are awfully good so I haven't had much motivation.

The tests I'm referring to include the 4 ball wear test, the Noack volatility test, the pour point, flash point, and fire point. The other numbers I looked at were the viscosity ratings on the cst scale.

I'd challenge the validity and relevance ofthose tests in indicating how an oil will perform in an actual car. But I too trust used oil analysis more than anything. It isn't the end all and be all, but it holds a lot more water than those lab tests.

[Pilot]

I completely agree Rob, but I really use those to determine what I feel comfortable putting in my car, and then turning around and getting an oil analysis done on it to see how it works.

Oh and Kevin, Amsoil was the first synthetic even though I know M1 has been doing it a long time. I also believe M1 uses a petroleum base-stock in their synthetic oils. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

[sgarnett]

Oh and Kevin, Amsoil was the first synthetic even though I know M1 has been doing it a long time. I also believe M1 uses a petroleum base-stock in their synthetic oils. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

I really don't care what base stocks were used to create the synthetic. All I care about is the properties of the result. If petroleum stock can be used as the raw material to create a good synthetic (and I don't know that it can or can't), I don't have a problem with that.

If an oil can provide good cold flow and good protection under adverse conditions (high operating temps, sudden loss of oil pressure, etc), and good wear protection, I don't care if it's made from turkey guts and dog poop.

In my past experience, dino oils aren't good enough, but that doesn't mean a synthetic made from them is also inadequate.

This post has been edited by sgarnett: Jun 7 2006, 02:44 PM