Replace/rebuild steering column Options

[JimMueller]

Not sure where else to post this, feel free to move.

For years my steering column has been collapsing at the 7 o'clock position. I've always read that it was loose tilt bolts within the column but that it wasn't a safety issue. I finally had a shop (formerly a dealer) inspect and tighten the tilt bolts but they told me they were barely loose... that the column is loose at the joint.

This is my only vehicle so I would prefer minimal down time. I've located a new OEM column at my cost of $1000. Else I might be able to pickup a used one locally but would be leery of it's quality and would need to locate a local rebuilder. It's more a annoyance than anything, but if I consider the price reasonable I'd like to take care of it.

[FASTFATBOY]

Not sure where else to post this, feel free to move.

For years my steering column has been collapsing at the 7 o'clock position. I've always read that it was loose tilt bolts within the column but that it wasn't a safety issue. I finally had a shop (formerly a dealer) inspect and tighten the tilt bolts but they told me they were barely loose... that the column is loose at the joint.

This is my only vehicle so I would prefer minimal down time. I've located a new OEM column at my cost of $1000. Else I might be able to pickup a used one locally but would be leery of it's quality and would need to locate a local rebuilder. It's more a annoyance than anything, but if I consider the price reasonable I'd like to take care of it.

Most of them have the collar worn where the tilt pins go in. I have a spare column and I am going to pull that collar piece out have it welded and re machined to correct it.

$1000 for a column? OUCH!

[cccbock]

With you on the column replacement. I tried to rebuild my old one and quickly found it well beyond my mechanical skills.

I ended up with a used one from a local recycler which was indeed better, but still had the issue.

Don't forget that the new column must come with the proper key(s), and the security resistor in the key may not match what you have requiring further mods.

[FASTFATBOY]

With you on the column replacement. I tried to rebuild my old one and quickly found it well beyond my mechanical skills.

I ended up with a used one from a local recycler which was indeed better, but still had the issue.

Don't forget that the new column must come with the proper key(s), and the security resistor in the key may not match what you have requiring further mods.

Plenty of threads on tech with pics to walk you through the steering column teardown.

You can bypass the key pellet requirement, also instructions on tech. It's simple. Or you can just swap your key and tumbler into the other column.

Very hard to find a used column that doesn't have this issue.

[JimMueller]

I just assumed my existing lock cylinder and pellet would be migrated to the replacement column. I've seen those column teardown links, and I'm worried I'll mess it up. I can get a used one locally, but what do I need to physically inspect on the used parts to determine the condition, assuming I don't have it rebuilt?

[FASTFATBOY]

I just assumed my existing lock cylinder and pellet would be migrated to the replacement column. I've seen those column teardown links, and I'm worried I'll mess it up. I can get a used one locally, but what do I need to physically inspect on the used parts to determine the condition, assuming I don't have it rebuilt?

You will have to find a way to hold the lower part and pull sideways on the steering wheel. Very hard to find one that is not floppy. You cannot fix the floppy if it is the collar that is worn at the tilt pins, there is no fix for it.

I will pull my spare collar and have it welded and re machined and or put a steel insert in it to prevent it from happening again. This would be a REALLY good deal for Blainefab to get into, he could make some green doing these exchange.

[cccbock]

With you on the column replacement. I tried to rebuild my old one and quickly found it well beyond my mechanical skills.

I ended up with a used one from a local recycler which was indeed better, but still had the issue.

Don't forget that the new column must come with the proper key(s), and the security resistor in the key may not match what you have requiring further mods.

Plenty of threads on tech with pics to walk you through the steering column teardown.

You can bypass the key pellet requirement, also instructions on tech. It's simple. Or you can just swap your key and tumbler into the other column.

Very hard to find a used column that doesn't have this issue.

I ended up bypassing the key resistor by installing a permanent one in line. My car was race-only...If I were doing a daily driver I would not go that route.

Wanting to maintain the stock column functions, I did attempt the column tear down as described and got pretty far with it and decided that my skills and patience would not see it through.

FWIW, the "new column" was better at first but it developed the same issue over a period of time.

Whichever way you go, triple check all the bolts on the reinstall. I had a race tech inspector find a loose one on mine that could have become a bad day

This post has been edited by cccbock: Sep 11 2013, 12:13 PM

[JimMueller]

I don't even know which part of the shaft is the weak part without seeing it highlighted on a diagram. Would there be a benefit to using the shaft kit in this link?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1998-Camaro-Z...t-/330920006315

[FASTFATBOY]

I don't even know which part of the shaft is the weak part without seeing it highlighted on a diagram. Would there be a benefit to using the shaft kit in this link?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1998-Camaro-Z...t-/330920006315

The above kit will not solve this issue, FYI a LS1 shaft looks just like the top shaft in that pic and bolts right onto a LT1 car.


In the upper pic below, the problem is with the round piece in the very center of the picture and/or the part that it pins to with the tilt pins., in the lower pic it would be #9 which I have not checked to see if it is still available.

http://www.newgmparts.com/parts/1999/CHEVR...diagram=CD93280

[79T/A]

This would be a REALLY good deal for Blainefab to get into, he could make some green doing these exchange.

Agreed, my column finally broke and went floppy this week, not really sure what the best option is at this point.

[FASTFATBOY]

The problem is with #9 in this pic and the piece that #9 connects to with the tilt pins which has no part#.

http://www.newgmparts.com/parts/1999/CHEVR...diagram=CD93285


The piece in the center of the box in this pic is what the tilt pins go through to connect to the lower column, this also has holes that elongate at the tilt pins. Not part# fro this.

http://www.newgmparts.com/parts/1999/CHEVR...diagram=CD93280


The tilt pins elongate the holes and cause slop in the wheel. It is caused by grabbing the wheel to get in/out of the car.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Sep 18 2013, 01:16 AM

[Honda93]

The problem is with #9 in this pic and the piece that #9 connects to with the tilt pins which has no part#.

http://www.newgmparts.com/parts/1999/CHEVR...diagram=CD93285


The piece in the center of the box in this pic is what the tilt pins go through to connect to the lower column, this also has holes that elongate at the tilt pins. Not part# fro this.

http://www.newgmparts.com/parts/1999/CHEVR...diagram=CD93280


The tilt pins elongate the holes and cause slop in the wheel. It is caused by grabbing the wheel to get in/out of the car.

Resurrection time...

Have there been any updates, fixes, or retrofit options for this slop since the last post in 2013? My column is also sloppy (able to be pulled as if on a spring) at the 7 o'clock position. There is only a little wobble if you jiggle the wheel at the 10 and 2 position.

And it's been determined that this is not a safety (failure) issue, correct?

Thanks.

[Unbalanced Engin...]

Correct, not a safety / failure issue since there is still a lot of material in the aluminum knuckles, but it is VERY annoying... The oversized pins we're now offering should solve the problem.

HTH,
Jason

Resurrection time...

Have there been any updates, fixes, or retrofit options for this slop since the last post in 2013? My column is also sloppy (able to be pulled as if on a spring) at the 7 o'clock position. There is only a little wobble if you jiggle the wheel at the 10 and 2 position.

And it's been determined that this is not a safety (failure) issue, correct?

Thanks.

This post has been edited by Unbalanced Engineering: Jun 3 2015, 06:31 PM

[JimMueller]

I had the UE oversized tilt pins installed today, as well as replacing the turn signal harness... found I needed the cancelling cam also but it wasn't available locally, so at least one more visit inside the column is needed.

So far as the tilt pins, the left side is very solid, the right side still has a tiny bit of play, and if pushed too far to the right it sticks a bit when pulling it back left. I plan to pass along the part number I found on Tech to my tech to see if it's worthwhile to order that column @$100.

[Honda93]

So far as the tilt pins, the left side is very solid, the right side still has a tiny bit of play, and if pushed too far to the right it sticks a bit when pulling it back left. I plan to pass along the part number I found on Tech to my tech to see if it's worthwhile to order that column @$100.

OK, the text in blue I understand. What about the text in red? Are you referring to your turn signal stalk there? Or the column itself?

[JimMueller]

So far as the tilt pins, the left side is very solid, the right side still has a tiny bit of play, and if pushed too far to the right it sticks a bit when pulling it back left. I plan to pass along the part number I found on Tech to my tech to see if it's worthwhile to order that column @$100.

OK, the text in blue I understand. What about the text in red? Are you referring to your turn signal stalk there? Or the column itself?

I'll need to rephrase that. The steering wheel play at the 7'o'clock position is reduced but it seems to be pushing away from the 7'o'clock position with more force. After driving for awhile, if I push the steering wheel back down at the 7'o'clock position, it seems to be sticking at the 1-2'o'clock position a bit before it moves. I know I need a replacement turn signal cancelling cam, but I don't know whether something was assembled incorrectly maybe?

[Unbalanced Engin...]

Hey Jim,

I'm not at all clear on the last few messages in this post. What is sticking? The "tilt" movement? I'm really not sure why this would be the case unless something else was damaged during install. One set of the prototype pins was a little too big and even after REALLY having to persuade them to get them in, the column still functions as expected.

Thanks,
Jason

[SuperMacGuy]

OK I have the same problem too, and my state inspection was almost failed because the guy thought it was the bolts coming loose. He said GM could fix it. I too can have wiggle down and left on the wheel. I've read the entire thread, but the old pix are not linked any more.

So the complete and official solution is new pins? Are there any other parts or bolts to repair while things are taken apart?
I bought a set of the pins from UE already (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Unbalanced Engin...]

Hey Chris,

Maybe the turn signal cam/canceler, but you can usually feel if that's starting to go south before you tear into the column. I can't think of anything else you'll need to replace.

HTH,
Jason

[79T/A]

Chris,

My column was hammered. You could pull it down with 1 finger. Jason was kind enough to let me test the first set and they solved all my problems. The column is tighter than new. My dad has a barely driven cream puff 4th gem with the tightest column I've come across, and mine with the oversized pins has less play.


Tom