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> temp gauge schematic for an 02 SS
Formula WS6
post Jun 27 2008, 03:15 PM
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I'm looking for a schematic showing how the temp gauge is wired in an 02 SS. The sender works fine and can be verified with both an IR gun and scanner. The fans also work as programmed. The gauge though reads high. Not sure where it's going wrong so I figured I would start with the wiring.

Thanks
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felton316
post Jun 28 2008, 01:57 AM
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QUOTE (Formula WS6 @ Jun 27 2008, 10:15 AM) *
I'm looking for a schematic showing how the temp gauge is wired in an 02 SS. The sender works fine and can be verified with both an IR gun and scanner. The fans also work as programmed. The gauge though reads high. Not sure where it's going wrong so I figured I would start with the wiring.

Thanks


I believe the 99-02's used the 'dummy gauge'. Basically, it points to normal once the car warms up, and if it exceeds the temp threshold, it points all the way hot. At least that's my understanding. The 98's with the 3 wire temp sensors were the last with real temp gauges.

Here is the wiring diagram that you requested.

(IMG:http://felton316.com/images/CarPics/wire.JPG)

This is the wire diagram from a 2000 LS1 Camaro.

This post has been edited by felton316: Jun 28 2008, 02:09 AM
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John_D.
post Jun 28 2008, 04:57 PM
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Correct, the pcm tell the gauge to show one of three states basically. Cold, warm, hot. On the 99+.
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Formula WS6
post Jun 28 2008, 11:32 PM
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weird. Before I pulled the engine, the temp gauge worked much better and more accurately. Now that the engine is back in, it basically shoots to 210 and stays there. I was thinking maybe I was missing a ground but I can't find anything. Thanks for the diagram felton and the info John, I do appreciate it.
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Cal
post Jun 30 2008, 03:31 PM
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QUOTE (Formula WS6 @ Jun 28 2008, 05:32 PM) *
it basically shoots to 210 and stays there.

That is how they are designed to work. It was costing GM too much money when idiots took their cars to the shop for normal temerpature fluxuations, so the gage was rigged to work this way.
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Formula WS6
post Jun 30 2008, 07:10 PM
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ok but the problem I am running into is that before I pulled the engine, the gauge was accurate and now it's not. I have triple checked the grounds and have not found one that's loose or not connected. There are the three wires behind the driver's head and the strap from the frame to the block on the driver's side. Is there another by chance that I'm missing? This is so weird that it would work before and now it doesn't that's why I was thinking I was missing something. Is there anything I can do or do I just need to get over it? lol

Thanks guys.
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John_D.
post Jul 1 2008, 02:05 PM
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I'm thinking there is a ground on the passenger head too. I redid all my wiring a couple of years ago though... So I'm going by a faint memory. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Cal
post Jul 1 2008, 03:53 PM
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I could be wrong, but my guess is the anomally always existed, you just didn't notice it. Since you barely put the engine back in the car, you were watching the gauge more closely than normal for possible engine problems.

All of the stock gauges are driven by a digital serial data stream, so if it really were a bad ground, you would see problems with all of the gauges.

Either way, what you need to do is install a good Autometer temp gauge.

This post has been edited by Cal: Jul 1 2008, 08:26 PM
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Formula WS6
post Jul 2 2008, 05:34 PM
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good points Cal. I know the engine is fine and is system is cooling properly. It's just an annoyance to me since I expect temp gauges to move accordningly.

John, the only thing I know of on the passenger head is the strap to hold the harness to the head. That and the dipstick/fill tube for the auto trans. I'll check again though.

Thanks guys

This post has been edited by Formula WS6: Jul 2 2008, 05:34 PM
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