Dumb question I know but . . . Options

[Slow96ws6]

Alright well I'm going to be doing a long tube install next week, among other things, and I relized I have no idea where to put jackstands on the front of my car (used to trucks) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) . I was gonna get ramps but I relized those only lift about 6 inches and that will not be enough. Soo... can I put them under the A arms . . ?If not, or you have a better spot, please explain well (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[roadracetransam]

Alright well I'm going to be doing a long tube install next week, among other things, and I relized I have no idea where to put jackstands on the front of my car (used to trucks) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) . I was gonna get ramps but I relized those only lift about 6 inches and that will not be enough. Soo... can I put them under the A arms . . ?If not, or you have a better spot, please explain well (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

k-member works well, or the frame rails rearward if the wheels

[CMC #37]

On my '97 TA there actually is an indentation not too far behind the front tire on the bodywork that marks a nice spot.

[00 Trans Ram]

You're going to need to get the front HIGH to make it easy on yourself. Look under the car, just where the little "vent holes" are (between the door and the wheel). Under there, you will see a pretty beefy subframe with a couple of oval holes in it. One of the oval holes is reinforced (when you put your finger in it, it has a 2nd piece of metal sandwiched in there).

This is the strongest flat spot rearward of the K-member. I found I couldn't get the car high enough using the K-member.

Couple of other suggestions - use good jackstands. Cheap ones can have the arms bend when fully extended (mine did). Remove the front wheels and lay them under the car (in case the jackstands collapse, you'll have them there to catch the car). An air-powered ratchet makes things 100X easier. You still have to break bolts loose by hand, but there are at least 4 bolts that are in such tight quarters that you can only get 1 click on a ratchet at a time. An air ratchet saves time and energy.

[00 SS]

There are several good spots as listed above, just make sure you do NOT use the pinch weld on the body.

[CMC #37]

There are several good spots as listed above, just make sure you do NOT use the pinch weld on the body.

Unfortunately I can tell you what happens if you do that! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[killer_bluebird]

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_u...lift_points.htm

[Slow96ws6]

Thanks everyone, I got it lifted up after work today. Man do i havemy work cut out for me. But i got three cans of PB blaster ! I also discovered I have the standard LT1 intake manifold leak . . .

[pknowles]

Thanks everyone, I got it lifted up after work today. Man do i havemy work cut out for me. But i got three cans of PB blaster ! I also discovered I have the standard LT1 intake manifold leak . . .

If you want to or need to change your motor mounts now is the time. It absolutely sucks to try and get to them with headers. Change them out after you have removed the manifolds and before you bolt the new headers in.

[Slow96ws6]

If you want to or need to change your motor mounts now is the time. It absolutely sucks to try and get to them with headers. Change them out after you have removed the manifolds and before you bolt the new headers in.

Already have em' waiting to go on the car (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[98_1LE]

My favorite spot is on the subframe connectors up front, and the rear axle or SFC's out back.