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> Oil breathers leaking
IROC383
post Nov 7 2010, 02:49 AM
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Hey Guys,
I have oil coming out of both valve cover holes. Passenger valve cover has a pvc valve -hose to a catch can. oil is coming from the grommet area of the PVC. The catch can has hot water in it. The driver side has a oil cap on it. Oil is pressurizing out around the cap. Oil is spraying all over the back of the engine bay coming out of both holes. Oil pan had condensation all over it after shake down drive.
My first set up was breather filters in both valve cover holes. Oil comes out in idle
Ran car hard up and down a private airplane runway. Car felt strong and just installed new C5 brakes and t56.
Please help me
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cccbock
post Nov 7 2010, 01:22 PM
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QUOTE (IROC383 @ Nov 6 2010, 09:49 PM) *
Hey Guys,
I have oil coming out of both valve cover holes. Passenger valve cover has a pvc valve -hose to a catch can. oil is coming from the grommet area of the PVC. The catch can has hot water in it. The driver side has a oil cap on it. Oil is pressurizing out around the cap. Oil is spraying all over the back of the engine bay coming out of both holes. Oil pan had condensation all over it after shake down drive.
My first set up was breather filters in both valve cover holes. Oil comes out in idle
Ran car hard up and down a private airplane runway. Car felt strong and just installed new C5 brakes and t56.
Please help me



Based on this description alone, you don't have breather problems...you have more serious problems. It sounds like the valve covers are over pressurizing, which usually means you are likely getting exhaust blowby the valves.

Sounds like possible head gaskets, and/or more likely valve problems. Since it is both sides, it is possible they are just misadjusted...let's hope so.

How does your oil level check stick look? Any water there?

Pull the valve covers and check all the valves and springs. Look for any small broken spring parts.

Check for brown oily watery residue in oil. You may need to do an oil change to discover this. Catch the oil in a big bowl or something so you can see if there are any broken metal bits.

good luck
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IROC383
post Nov 8 2010, 01:29 AM
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No white in oils stick. Thank gosh
going to replace valve covers with baffle style and set up proper PVC vaccum.
I will also set valves again.
Im building a lot of lower end pressure. What is this from?
This problem seems to make temp rise to 260 also. Could this come from a 1 quart loss of oil out of the breathers?
Motor was still strong today but almost caught the motor on fire from oil on the headers.
I know Im doing something wrong, this is the second consecutive motor to do the same exact thing.
Thanks for your expertise,
Jarrod (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)
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StanIROCZ
post Nov 8 2010, 02:35 AM
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How hard are you running it? On track my PVC would pop out of the valve cover from crank case pressure. As a quick fix I wired it in place but oil would still leak out around it since the stock gromment was old and no longer fit tight. I've since welded in AN-8 bungs in both valve covers and plumbed them into a breather tank.

QUOTE (IROC383 @ Nov 6 2010, 09:49 PM) *
Oil comes out in idle

I don't know what to think since you don't have it plummed into the intake for vacuum. With my catch can set-up there has a been 1 or 2 times were I come to a stop and smoke is pouring from under the hood. My first thoughts were overheating, but I popped the hood and found smoke coming from the breather. Other than those comple times I haven't noticed much smoke at all. I have maybe 1-200 miles on it like this but I haven't drained the take yet to see what's in it.
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IROC383
post Nov 8 2010, 02:57 AM
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what type of oil pan do you guys use for road racing? i may be building up pressure beacuse i throw all my oil out of the bottom of the pan.
I have a stock pan with good suspension and hp. Please help me Opra!
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1meanZ
post Nov 12 2010, 01:59 PM
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you need to do a leak down test on your engine FIRST before going any further. If you're shoving that much oil out you've probably got a problem with ring seal. Make sure the engine is healthy first, then work on controlling oil leaks. Fixing an oil seepage problem on an engine with tons of blow-by is a waste of time.

Same for your temperature problem. Sounds like there are lots of issues with your engine. Have someone that KNOWS what they are doing help you with a leak down test on ALL 8 CYLINDERS and go from there. We're all wasting our time if you're trying to work with a junk engine. Just because if "feels strong" to you doesnt mean that it's not junk.
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trackbird
post Nov 12 2010, 06:47 PM
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QUOTE (IROC383 @ Nov 7 2010, 09:57 PM) *
what type of oil pan do you guys use for road racing? i may be building up pressure beacuse i throw all my oil out of the bottom of the pan.
I have a stock pan with good suspension and hp. Please help me Opra!


If you are getting oil out of the front and rear main seals and/or around the oil pan gasket, you are very likely pressurizing the oil pan with combustion pressure. I had an old truck with a 350 and a bad vacuum advance, so I set the initial timing up a bit (so it wasn't lazy around town, you just couldn't floor it or tow or it would knock...I forgot and pulled a trailer with it). After towing with it, it started using 1 qt per 30 miles. It was coming out of the front and rear crank seals. When I tore it down, the top rings were all shattered into 3/4" to 1 1/2" pieces. Compression was blowing right past the rings and into the pan, the pressure was blowing out of the seals and taking oil with it.

If you have ring seal issues, you'll likely have oil leaking issues. The only way to fix that is to tear it down, check the bores and re-ring it.
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CMC #37
post Nov 12 2010, 07:28 PM
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Does not sound good whatever way you slice it! Just went through this, broken ring land.
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IROC383
post Nov 14 2010, 03:21 PM
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QUOTE (CMC #37 @ Nov 12 2010, 02:28 PM) *
Does not sound good whatever way you slice it! Just went through this, broken ring land.

I just sold it. Put money towards new motor. All done with that prob. Thanks
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