Lots of questions..., need input Options

[mesospeedy]

Glad to hear you enjoyed your weekend. I know how you feel, I also got to solo during my last session in my first HPDE event. It was with NASA though, don't know if that is common in HPDE 1 with them or not. If you have some money and want to upgrade your brakes, then go for it. However, my car is also a full weight LS1 car ( I'm guessing 3800 +/- with me and instructor) and I saw much higher speeds than you are posting without brake issues. I ran stock calipers, Oreily rotors and HP+ front/HPS rear pads, and had to haul down from 135-140 to I'm guessing around 60-70 (the rollercoaster at VIR is a little intimidating so I wasn't really looking at the speedo). I saw slight fade towards the end of the sessions, each 30 minutes. So brakes are not 100% necessary. Ofcourse, I'm kinda being a hypocrite cause I'm in the process of installing a Porsche brake kit on my car, haha! But I actually bought it before my first track day, so I wasn't too sure about the stock setup yet. And I'm also addicted to modding, I had koni adjustables, strano bars, H&R springs, etc. when all I was using the car for was spirited street driving!

[mitchntx]

Mitch's set-up is being used for track only. He has duct's, I don't (both are CMC2 cars).

The other questions you asked here I answered in a response to your last PM.

Trying to clarify some misinformation ... I installed ducts the last season I ran. I went for years, like I said, without ducts or issues like this guy has seen.

[FASTFATBOY]

FATBOY - welcome to the addiction (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) You seem to be going down the exact same path I took (same parts selection, etc.) so here's where I ended up:

Brakes - C6 rotors from www.racingbrake.com - same price as rockauto.com but much tighter quality control. Wilwood EXP 600 fluid - I was boiling the ATE stuff. Carbotech XP10 front, HPS rear - tried XP12 & XP16s and like the feel of the 10s better...plus they're cheaper. Wilwood proportioning valve - I had to dial the rears down pretty low to get rid of brake hop. I used regular orange ducts but wrapped them with gaffer's tape - they've lasted 3 years with no issues, largely because gaffer's tape is badass (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I mounted NACA ducts from www.ioportracing.com to the front airdam with some wire mesh in front. On an LT1 car at least, I couldn't route them to the foglight holes without ripping out everything behind the bumper, which I didn't want to do at the time. Everyone says it should overheat from doing that but it runs around 210 in Texas heat with an oil cooler in front of the ac condenser and a power steering cooler behind the stock radiator. All with a motor making over 400rwhp. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dunno.gif)

Safety - I would strongly recommend an FIA-approved seat and properly mounted harness along with a HANS device. May seem like overkill in DE but impacts are impacts and they don't care what class you're in. I half-assed my seat and harness (always wore a HANS though) for a while but it always made me nervous and things I've seen since make me feel really lucky I never "tested" that setup.

Suspension - I really like Sam Strano's 35mm front bar with the stock 19mm rear bar. This is with the Eibach LT1 (650/160) springs and Koni Yellows....your results may vary. Unless the car is doing something you really don't like and it doesn't sound like that's the case, I wouldn't change anything aside from alignment settings for a while. Some guys change suspension stuff like underwear looking for a magic setup but once the car is reasonably balanced - there isn't one. It's all about seat time.

Hope this helps...
Casey
AIX #29

Casy I am looking on Racingbrake.com and I cant find a plain C6 rotor, only slotted. I was told to put a plain rotor on. Thought?