This pos clutch1, need input Options

[FASTFATBOY]

A little history,

When I bought this car it had a bad throwout bearing. I fixed at, put in a used 25k mile stock clutch from a buddies car in it with a re surfaced flywheel and a GM slave.

If you ran the car hard through the gears the clutch would stick on the floor in 3rd/4th.

So I put a Tick master in the car, was ok for a while......after this last track event when you leave a stop light the clutch feels like it hangs up on release, slips as you let the pedal out, then when you shift the pedal is low and hard.

Broken pressure plate? Bad slave?

I bled the system, didn't help.


What is a good stock replacement clutch? Don't need a flywheel, this one has less than 2500 miles since it was turned.

If I am gonna go in there its getting a clutch and slave.

Recommendations on a stock replacement clutch?

[z28jeff]

I have a Sachs o.e. clutch kit in my 94 LT1. Been in there for about 6 years now with over 100 autocross events and 30k street miles. No problems to speak of.

[trackbird]

Do you have headers on the car?

[FASTFATBOY]

Stock exhaust, stock engine with free mods.

I found this clutch on Amazon for $304, thoughts? I called Exedy it only comes with the throwout bearing, no slave hydraulic.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/...QQEXE04173.html

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jun 6 2011, 04:46 PM

[trackbird]

I'm guessing you could be boiling the fluid in the clutch lines. I've seen it on the dyno, and it's happened to a few cars under hard use. I'd wrap the hydraulic lines in heat shield and see if that works. This is assuming it happens after everything is warm. I hate to run a car hard when it's cold, but if it doesn't do it cold, that's a good indicator that you have this problem.

[FASTFATBOY]

I'm guessing you could be boiling the fluid in the clutch lines. I've seen it on the dyno, and it's happened to a few cars under hard use. I'd wrap the hydraulic lines in heat shield and see if that works. This is assuming it happens after everything is warm. I hate to run a car hard when it's cold, but if it doesn't do it cold, that's a good indicator that you have this problem.

Nah, it was fine at the track. Started when I got home, does it street driving. let out on the clutch leaving a light and right before the clutch finishes engaging it slips then you let out the pedal and it bites. Shift to second clutch pedal is hard....weird. Wont do it all the time.

[Blainefab]

Nah, it was fine at the track. Started when I got home, does it street driving. let out on the clutch leaving a light and right before the clutch finishes engaging it slips then you let out the pedal and it bites. Shift to second clutch pedal is hard....weird. Wont do it all the time.

Sounds like you busted something - a chunk of friction material coming loose might be the problem. I'd put a real GM LS6 clutch in it - check pricing from Team Chev with free shipping.

I've got a NIB C5 TOB for sale, dunno if it fits the Fbod.

[FASTFATBOY]

Alan I am looking at c5 z06 clutches, f body tobs are specific.

[Eskimo]

I have a C5 Z06 clutch in my car, and have issues with it above 6,000 - Just my $.02. After doing a high RPM run, I never know where the engagement point will be, or how the pedal is going to feel. It's annoying, to say the least.

[FASTFATBOY]

Eskimo, I shift my car around 5800 ish (5400 ish by the tach), I also have a Tick master cylinder in the car.

[tonycook]

I've been using a Centerforce Dual Friction, Fidanza Flywheel (aluminum), GM slave and Tick master. Been very happy with it. Remote bleeder is a good idea.

[FASTFATBOY]

I bought an autozone assembly tonight, this is a new clutch made by LUK with flywheel for $299, looks identical to a Z06 clutch.

[creeper]

whatever you do just don't buy anything clutch related from advance auto

(IMG:http://i55.tinypic.com/2uhwmfr.jpg)

5k very easy miles and boom

[Aardvark]

whatever you do just don't buy anything clutch related from advance auto

(IMG:http://i55.tinypic.com/2uhwmfr.jpg)

5k very easy miles and boom

We had one from NAPA do the same thing in our CMC car. Acted like the clutch was not bled, but it was actually the friction material sitting loose jamming everything. We put a RAM in and have had no problems since.

[FASTFATBOY]

Differences between Ac Delco and gm slave cylinders? I was told by 2 places that gm and quality slaves are made by a company called Ap. Any input on this?

I called the local Ac Delco parts dealer and asked them to pull one off the shelf and eyeball it, Ac Delco part #386433, and got him to eyeball it and it had the ap logo cast in it.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jun 8 2011, 07:42 PM

[Blainefab]

Differences between Ac Delco and gm slave cylinders? I was told by 2 places that gm and quality slaves are made by a company called Ap. Any input on this?

I called the local Ac Delco parts dealer and asked them to pull one off the shelf and eyeball it, Ac Delco part #386433, and got him to eyeball it and it had the ap logo cast in it.

ACDelco is a GM brand http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_Electronics The C5 slave cylinder also has AP cast on it. I've always associated AP with british made brake parts, from my Triumph MC days, so I thought odd to see AP on that part.

[FASTFATBOY]

Update, I got an Autozone clutch kit complete with flywheel, tob, alignment tool. It's made by LUK. It is identical in appearance to the 2002 factory clutch I pulled out of the car (z06 unit).
Same exact markings by same maker, LUK.

Got slave from Car Quest, an ap unit.

Cost on clutch kit was $295, slave hydraulics $89.

Drives like a dream now.

This post has been edited by FASTFATBOY: Jun 15 2011, 01:20 PM

[wrencher]

pretty sure the ZO6 PP was the standard replacement for all of them now.
IMO it is still not enough af a PP for the LS concentric slave set up.