Hawker Battery, Anyone have problems with heat? Options

[RedHardSupra]

I bought a used one from some other forum, and it never worked right. Didn't hold a charge, got hot, car never started from it. So I payed my money, spents lots of time making brackets for it (as well as my catch can, which I had to relocate a bit), and...i'm back to stock :/

Is that just a bad battery, or are they generally bad? My mechanic has it on his race car and says he's always got problems with it, that if he doesn't drive the car for more than 2 days he'll have to fire it up from a charger, as the battery would be weak already. How would I check how bad the battery is? Where do I get a new one at a good price?

[ESPCamaro]

I bought an equivalent. The Harley battery. Been in the car, and I only start it once a week.

[2MCHPWR]

good old thread. i have hawker genesis in stock location.
i let it sit for months over the winter and it always started up.

funny thing is that even after starting it with it not being started for 30 minutes, the gauges do the full sweep thingy and the odometer resets to zero. does that happen to anyone else?

[Jabberwocky]

My Hawker/odessey battery has lasted 2 years now.

[bobbylee]

funny thing is that even after starting it with it not being started for 30 minutes, the gauges do the full sweep thingy and the odometer resets to zero. does that happen to anyone else?

After researching various batteries for winch duty in my Jeep, despite the claims by Hawker, I decided they wouldn't work. They may start okay, but they have poor reserve capacity. IOTW they will die quickly if they have very much load placed on them without charging. The above quote tells you that the Hawker is going below the minimum voltage necessary for the odo memory. I have experimented with this and it seems like the trip odometer is the first to go on low voltage. The ECM and radio presets will usually stay until you drop below 8 volts or so. IMHO the Hawker is an decent idea that has not been fully developed yet.

[Teutonic Speedra...]

After researching various batteries for winch duty in my Jeep, despite the claims by Hawker, I decided they wouldn't work. They may start okay, but they have poor reserve capacity. IOTW they will die quickly if they have very much load placed on them without charging. The above quote tells you that the Hawker is going below the minimum voltage necessary for the odo memory. I have experimented with this and it seems like the trip odometer is the first to go on low voltage. The ECM and radio presets will usually stay until you drop below 8 volts or so. IMHO the Hawker is an decent idea that has not been fully developed yet.

I kinda bought the Hawker knowing it may die down over time, but since I have no radio and such it doesn't really matter to me. Just that it starts! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Everything's a comprimise. Light battery, less capacity. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[nape]

I kinda bought the Hawker knowing it may die down over time, but since I have no radio and such it doesn't really matter to me. Just that it starts! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Everything's a comprimise. Light battery, less capacity. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Agreed. I wouldn't use it in a daily driver, but for an occasional street car or a race car, I think it's a great option.

[Tony99SS]

funny thing is that even after starting it with it not being started for 30 minutes, the gauges do the full sweep thingy and the odometer resets to zero. does that happen to anyone else?

The above quote tells you that the Hawker is going below the minimum voltage necessary for the odo memory. I have experimented with this and it seems like the trip odometer is the first to go on low voltage. The ECM and radio presets will usually stay until you drop below 8 volts or so. IMHO the Hawker is an decent idea that has not been fully developed yet.

Actually, the 99 cars suffer from some glitch that causes the 'full sweepy thingy' mentioned above. I queried the service dept here and was informed that there is a TSB of some kind on it, and that in my case (out of warranty, and thinking I had damaged something by welding w/o disconnecting the battery) not much could be done.

Tony
it is amazing just how time consuming contracting and building a house can be. I've resolved not to touch the cars until this is through, although I did sit in it the other day (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[robz71lm7]

How is everyone charging these batteries?

I found a place that has the oddyssey ODYSSEY PC680 for $81 shipped. They also had good prices on the battery tender line of chargers. I was thinking of getting the Battery Tender Plus and leaving it plugged in most of the time.

20-25 lbs off the nose is really tempting! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Also is anyone buying the metal jacket version of these batteries? It's $7-8 more.

[Teutonic Speedra...]

How is everyone charging these batteries?

Haven't had to charge mine yet. It has sit for 1-2 months later winter, early spring (Northeast)....starts like a champ!

[robz71lm7]

Damn. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I assume you usually leave it disconnected?

[nape]

Damn. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I assume you usually leave it disconnected?

My experiences are the same as Dennis'.

The only time I've had to charge it is when I left the key in the ON position overnight and it drained the battery.

I left the battery in from February to April without touching it and it popped right over when I tried to start the car. I don't have anything drawing on the battery (a stereo, etc) though.

[Teutonic Speedra...]

Damn. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I assume you usually leave it disconnected?

It's never been disconnected since I put it in over the winter. I don't have much drawing on it either (no radio, etc.).

[robz71lm7]

Thanks guys I ended up ordering the odyssey off ebay for $72 shipped.

I also have no radio/speakers either. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif)

[John_D.]

Mine's held up well too. I ended up getting one with a metal jacket because it was cheaper than the no-jacket ones I found elsewhere. Then I took the jacket off then it got here.

It was stuck on with some hot glue on the sides. (the front and back "sides" - the wider parts)

[robz71lm7]

FWIW, Lonnie told got a rebadged Hawker locally at a Harley dealership for the same price I paid ($72). I should've read his price more carefully-I could've saved some time. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[slowTA]

I finally got my Odyssey battery in and it takes longer to start than I would like. It's only been in for the day with 4 starts under it's belt. 2 of the starts were just to see if it would start with no running time to let it charge any.

The motor has a history of not wanting to start when hot, but that was solved with a high torque starter. Also, since this is a thirdgen Formula the battery is on the driver's side making the cable fairly long. I run the positive cable across the radiator to a remote solenoid mounted on the frame next to the idler arm, from there I have a cable that runs back to the starter. I know long cables are frowned on, but don't think this case is too bad.

Any suggestions?

[nape]

I finally got my Odyssey battery in and it takes longer to start than I would like. It's only been in for the day with 4 starts under it's belt. 2 of the starts were just to see if it would start with no running time to let it charge any.

The motor has a history of not wanting to start when hot, but that was solved with a high torque starter. Also, since this is a thirdgen Formula the battery is on the driver's side making the cable fairly long. I run the positive cable across the radiator to a remote solenoid mounted on the frame next to the idler arm, from there I have a cable that runs back to the starter. I know long cables are frowned on, but don't think this case is too bad.

Any suggestions?

Mine cranks for a little bit too, but nothing crazy. 2-3 seconds max.

I still have the standard long cable as well, so you're probably one up on me as far as that goes.

Just a word of warning though, I actually killed the battery completely about a month ago because I left the key on for a few days and it drained the battery so bad it wouldn't take a charge. Luckily, I bought mine locally and the store honored the 1-year warrenty.

One other suggestion, if you used the bolts that came with the battery, find some way to make a remote positive terminal like newer OEM cars because it's a pain in the ass to get cables on those small bolts if you do kill it. I still haven't made it to the junkyard to pull one, but it's on my to-do list.

[slowTA]

Yeah, I forgot to ask about how you guys plan on jump starting the car if you use the bolts included with the battery. I see Jon still has what looks like the factory bolts, wonder how he did it. Either way it looks like you'll short out the jumper cable since it's so close to the body. I can just tap off of the remote solenoid for that... actually if I moved the solenoid someplace reachable I wouldn't need it.

I'll have to feel it out a little longer to see if it will stay or not, also it has a 2 year warantee.

[Jon A]

I drilled and tapped the battery to use the stock sized bolts. I felt dumb for doing that when you guys mentioned you could just use the bolts the battery came with. But ahah! I knew there was a reason. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)