A simple question of paint Options

[v7guy]

does anyone here know if a primer sealer will keep the car from rusting, and protect it long term without oxidizing (several years)?

[bubba353z]

I'm not an expert, but my understanding is that primer will "hold" moisture - and can actually promote surface rust. (Not sure on the primer / sealer)

I'd try to get a topcoat on there, if I could. I would think that even clearcoat would be better than nothing.

[v7guy]

I was aware that the primer will hold moisture, but the primer sealer is an epoxy based paint, much like the top coat and clear coat, so I was curious.

The car is about four different colors currently and about 1/4 sanded down and I really like the look of the satin black, if a sealer could do the job then I would just do that.

[z28barnett]

Honda 919 has a statin black that they put on some of the factory bikes. They call the color asphalt. They could color match that paint and you would have a color for them to mix to.

You can get additives that reduce the gloss of a top coat. That would be the best way to handle it. I would not run primer either.

Z28

[Pilot]

Agreed, the primer is there to create a surface to aid in top coat adhesion. You would be better off finding a matte or satin black top coat of some sort.

Of course I used to be involved with industrial painting and not automotive so I could be way off base.

[Judd]

If the primer is a primer/sealer, it will work fine. But, while the primer sealer might be water proof,,, it may not stand up too well against the sun. Saying that, the roof of my K5 is Ditzler DP90, a two part primer. It's been on the roof for about three years now and it's doing fine.

[firehawkclone]

There is a matte black paint out there, alot of the hotrod/ratrod guys use it.

[v7guy]

I have read about the top coat additives, I was just hoping that I wouldn't have to spend $3K to make it look like a $100 rattle can job (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rotf.gif)


I'll have to ask around locally I guess.

[zlexiss]

The proper primers will seal and prevent corrosion in the long term.

We use a 2-part epoxy primer on our parts here at work. A thin coat (<1 mil dry thickness) is great for painting over (using a 2-part polyurethane), while I spray a thicker coat (2-3 mils dry) for normal protection. The epoxy primer is resistant to pretty much everything - salt fog, solvents, temperature/humidity cycling..

Not sure if you can get MIL-P-85582, Type I, Class C1 primer (Deft 44-GN-07) at the hardware store, though (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[v7guy]

do you happen to know where one could get it? It's a TX car, doesn't see the salt and snow that most cars see, mostly I just need to prevent rust and I don't want oxidation from the sun..........how does it stand up to flexibilty?


Need to run to the paint store and see what I can find out........hell, I need to find a paint shop (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[zlexiss]

I don't think anyone sells this stuff at retail. Too much in the way of hazmat - primer contains chromates, which are the stuff for corrosion prevention, but not nice when breathing in sanding dust.

Paint shops might carry something good, they should be able to help you out with good advice on their product lines. Grainger or other industrial supply places carry some more heavy duty primers as well, the Rustoleum 5300 and 9300 series epoxy primers look pretty good, but I haven't used them.

Flexibility depends on proper surface prep and application. Good clean surfaces are a must for best adhesion. We scuff metal with scotchbrite pads to clean off all surface oxidation. Then clean well with solvent (isopropyl alcohol) to degrease. Aluminum gets a chemical conversion coating (google for "Alodine"). Then prime.

Too thick primers crack and chip easily, so don't load up thinking that it will have better protection, this isn't a gap filler like epoxy adhesive.