Correct Lift points -4th gen Options

[AndyJ]

Hi all,

I seem to remember a thread recently about the correct lifting locations for a 4th gen car -- but I can't find it.

Lifted my '96 recently and now I have to re-align the driver's fender--which sucks.

Thanks in advance,

Andy

[Cal]

There's a lift point on the frame just behind each front wheel. You can also lift the whole front end with a jack centered under the K-member, if you can get past the air deflector to get it in there. Or you can lift the whole rearend with a jack under the differential. But the best jacking point yet is anywhere on a set of SLP subframe connectors!

This post has been edited by Cal: Dec 6 2005, 05:46 PM

[KeithO]

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_u...lift_points.htm

[AndyJ]

There's a lift point on the frame just behind each front wheel. You can also lift the whole front end with a jack centered under the K-member, if you can get past the air deflector to get it in there. Or you can lift the whole rearend with a jack under the differential. But the best jacking point yet is anywhere on a set of SLP subframe connectors!

Cal,

I have an overhead lift. Apparently what happened this last time was the lift pads were placed on the rubber pads behind both front wheels. For some reason it moved the front fender to the point the door now catches the fender when it is opened with a loud POP. I thought I was OK lifing at the rubber pad locations but evidently not.

Andy

[BigEnos]

In the front and the back of the car there's 4 flat areas that I assume are the subframe mounts that the subframe connectors connect to. The rears are distinguished by the LCAs being bolted off of them, and all 4 have the oval "tow-hook" holes. I always use these to lift the car and I also use them to tie the car down when I tow it (using GM "R" hooks).

I've used the black "pad" you describe in the front to jack with a floor jack without issues. Best to stay away from them when using a lift, though.

[BigEnos]

See figures #3 and #5 for examples of what I'm talking about.

[AndyJ]

In the front and the back of the car there's 4 flat areas that I assume are the subframe mounts that the subframe connectors connect to. The rears are distinguished by the LCAs being bolted off of them, and all 4 have the oval "tow-hook" holes. I always use these to lift the car and I also use them to tie the car down when I tow it (using GM "R" hooks).

I've used the black "pad" you describe in the front to jack with a floor jack without issues. Best to stay away from them when using a lift, though.

My problem exactly-- used the black rubber pads in the old shop with a floor jack.

Moved into the new digs with the fancy equipment and screwed my car up.

I know the locations you are talking about. I don't think my '96 has the rear tow slots however.




Andy

[Sam Strano]

Best to lift the car by the diff and the k-member with a jack. Cars are a lot less likely to bend longways than they are torsionally. Just drive the car on some 2x4's and getting a jack under there is no problem.

Why put undue stress on the car when you can lift in a better place and get two wheels up instead of just one? Don't believe me? Try opening your door when the car is jacked up on one corner. Even with SFC's, it won't open or close as smoothly as when on the ground....

A lift is a different situation, because you are lifting all four corners together and don't induce a lot of useless twisting.

[Ojustracing]

Andy make sure when you bend the fender back that you disconnect it from the fender beofre trying to bend the lip back. I had the guys at TIRE RACK damage both side on my car. One side I thought I could hit back with a hammer (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) , but didnt know the front fender was plastic. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) So the other side was fixed properly.

Later John

This post has been edited by Ojustracing: Dec 6 2005, 07:17 PM

[AndyJ]

Andy make sure when you bend the fender back that you disconnect it from the fender beofre trying to bend the lip back. I had the guys at TIRE RACK damage both side on my car. One side I thought I could hit back with a hammer (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) , but didnt know the front fender was plastic. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif) So the other side was fixed properly.

Later John

John,

I am next door to a body shop -- I have beverages in my fridge which they enjoy. They have already been over to dispense advice and quench a thirst. As a matter of fact, he is the one that diagnosed the cause.

Andy

[Cal]

I have an overhead lift. Apparently what happened this last time was the lift pads were placed on the rubber pads behind both front wheels. For some reason it moved the front fender to the point the door now catches the fender when it is opened with a loud POP. I thought I was OK lifing at the rubber pad locations but evidently not.

Andy

I don't think the rubber pads are same place I'm talking about. The place where I put the jack is just inboard of these rubber pads. I think the rubber pads cover a area where the front fender bolts onto the floor pan, which is why your fender got pushed out of alignment. At some point, GM did away with the rubber pads and you can see where the fender bolts on. My wifes '93 has them, but my '01 does not. At any rate, it is not a place to lift the car by, even though it looks like it would be.

If you do the front breather mod and do away with the air deflector, it is real easy to roll a floor jack under the K-member.