What is up with these guage comapnies?, Sell it, but not support it????? Options

[mitchntx]

Glenn has done tons of research on this and we are both about to the point of have custom machining done.

Autometer guages have a sending unit that is 1/8" NPT.
An LS1 motor has ports machined in, but are 12x1.5 metric.

Sure there are adaptors, but the wall is so thin the adaptors twist off with MINIMAL torque. And by that, not enough to crush a seal enough to prevent a leak.

Why don't they make a 12x1.5 sender?????

The stock sender ohms out WAY different ... almost 1K ohms lower than the AM.

[John_D.]

What gauge is that?

[mitchntx]

Autometer temperature guages

[steve-d]

SW has the same NPT 1/8 thread. They sell adapter kits, but should, as noted sell the real deal.

Steve

[mjf454]

Autometer has a adapter that fits in place of the plugs in the head and block. It looks like the 1/2" one that comes with the gauge, except it is metric. I removed the plug in the block and put the adapter and sending unit in just as if it were a sbc. {except it was metric}

Monday I'll go to my friends shop and get the part # for you.

[rmackintosh]

...two words....

MECHANICAL GUAGES!

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[mitchntx]

I know Randy ...

Mike, the wall is SOOOO thin, that any torque at all will snap the things off.
If not going on, they will definitely coming off.

Autometer needs to supply a 12x1.5 sender ....

[mjf454]

I think we are talking about two different adapters. The one I used is a part #2268 and it is a 1/8" to M16-1.5. It fits in the large ports of the block {there is one behind the alt, and one at the rear of the block} I am seeing now that you want to use the small port in the cooler adapter above the oil filter. The 2268 fits in the head plugs, if you are going for water temp. It is the same size as the plugs, with a 1/8" hole tapped in it.

[GlennCMC70]

...two words....

MECHANICAL GUAGES!

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

how does that solve the problem of putting NPT parts in METRIC holes that are very close in size?


and just for an FYI - i said "F" it, and pulled the water pump, drilled a hole just to the left of the T/B on the round part of the water pump that faces up. tapped it 1/8" NPT and put a temp sender there. i figured that was the bast place to look @ water temp as thats where the water leaves the pump to go to the radiator so it would be the hottest water.

[rmackintosh]

how does that solve the problem of putting NPT parts in METRIC holes that are very close in size?

....OK.....one "word"....

LT1

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

....but seriously, it sounds as if the DO make an adaptor, but it is weak in your experience....How tight are you tightening the thing????? Are you using any sealers, teflon tape, etc?

I can't imaging tightening things so tight the fitting would break.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) .....my first Autometer guages were plastic tubing and cheap little compression fittings.....never leaked....just melted the tubing in the Datsun! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[mitchntx]

They would snap before a crush washer was deformed ...

[rmackintosh]

They would snap before a crush washer was deformed ...

1.....would....or HAVE?

2. Don't know much about electric guages.....ALWAYS use mechanical.....except for the P.O.S. electric gas guage I put in...but to my knowledge the way they are put into the block, head, etc. shouldn't be different....I have never had a guage sender with a crush washer.....are you sure you are using the proper application?

...don't know....just a thought...

[rmackintosh]

OK....got off my lazy butt and looked at one....

Looks strong enough to me.....have you contacted Autometer about them? May be defective.....can't imagine needing enough torque to snap it!

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

[GlennCMC70]

how does that solve the problem of putting NPT parts in METRIC holes that are very close in size?

....OK.....one "word"....

LT1

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

....but seriously, it sounds as if the DO make an adaptor, but it is weak in your experience....How tight are you tightening the thing????? Are you using any sealers, teflon tape, etc?

I can't imaging tightening things so tight the fitting would break.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) .....my first Autometer guages were plastic tubing and cheap little compression fittings.....never leaked....just melted the tubing in the Datsun! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

a M12x1.5 male metric adapter w/ a 1/8" NPT female has a .030" wall thickness. how tight do you think it needs to torqued till it fails?

[rmackintosh]

a M12x1.5 male metric adapter w/ a 1/8" NPT female has a .030" wall thickness. how tight do you think it needs to torqued till it fails?

....that answers THAT question.....

.....how can you judge a part that you haven't tried???? Reading a parts specs on a website, or catalog is no way to come to that conclusion......Autometer is a VERY GOOD company in my experience.....have had ZERO problems in two race cars (tons more if you count the ones I have worked on not just owned).....the little plastic tubing event aside....If they make the adaptor....probably thousands in use....my guess is it probably works.....

Not trying to be an A$$, but why not spend $5, get one and see for yourself if it works.....

[GlennCMC70]

o.k.- sorry, i wasnt clear. i have had this part in my car. the 2nd time i installed it, it broke into the head. it wasnt made by autometer as they (autometer) only make a M12x1 (not 1.5) and will not work. also, the hole though the adapter must be large enough for the tip of the sender to exstend through (about 5/16" diameter) so no matter the manufacture, a M12x1.5 threaded part w/ a 5/16" hole in it will only have .030" thickness from the valley of the threads to the inner wall of the part. i even looked into having a local machine shop take a M12x1.5 male that had a -4AN male on the other end that was made of steel. told them to mill off the -4AN side, drill out the fitting to accept the tip of the sender and tap it 1/8 NPT. i told them i knew it was gonna be thin and don't worry about destroying it in the attemp to made it, that i was willing to accept the loss of a $10 adapter plus the machine shop bill. they called me back and said that they were so sure it was gonna break that they wouldnt do it or take my money to try it.

as mitch said, i've done the leg work on trying to make these senders work w/ existing holes.
by the way, that temp sender is a 12mm socket size. thats the perfect size to make a M12x1.5 sender from. 1/8" NPT is like only a 64th of an inch smaller.

[rmackintosh]

OK....I get it now....sometimes I am slow....

Sounds like one solution....not the most fun solution I might add....would be to take the head, and have the hole enlarged and put in the "larger" metric size so you can get the stronger adapter mjf454 is talking about...or hell convert it to the larger npt thread for greater access to adaptors....

have you thought of that?

[GlennCMC70]

well thats an o.k. idea, but keep in mind, if that head ends up on the driver side, then the stock temp sensor will not fit in that hole. the stock temp sensor is important to the computer for open loop/closed loop and proper fuel maps chosen by temp. so yes, i have thought of that.
i think my solution to tap the pump was the best. my temp reading changed 15 degrees by moving it off the pass head and to the water pump.

[mjf454]

I put my water temp sender in the block, just above the starter. It was a lot easier for me than trying to get to the one in the head, with the headers in the way. Although this whole mess was quite a thread drift from Mitch's question of why don't they make the proper sending unit in the first place. Especially since all new cars today are metric, and have been for long enough to make a new sending unit.

[ampcory]

You can contact Auto Meters service tech support department for a 12x1.5 adapter that does not break. if using an Auto Meter short sweep electric temp gauge, they will sell you a adapter and sender for $18.49 and free shipping to the US. If using a Auto Meter Cobalt or C2 full sweep, the adapter only is needed with no new sender for $12.00. I have installed several with great results. The replacement sender does not have an extended probe so the adapter can maintain a thicker wall thickness. It is also not in the way of headers.