The new to me 1992 Z28, Photos and build information inside Options

[trackbird]

Sounds like a 3rd gen to me (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Now that you mention it, most of them that I've worked on had similar issues in one way or another. Maybe they were factory options to keep the techs guessing???

Thanks, but a 96 won't work.

It's a 92, so for FStawk it has to have a 92 wheel in it. B4C2 has a wheel with the middle top all squishy and not really attached to the metal very good and it bugs me.

Kevin, if your wheel is in decent shape (besides wear) and you are replacing it, then let me know. I don't need the airbag, just the wheel.


Costas
cars and such...

It's in decent shape and I will be pulling it (sooner or later) and it's "yours". It's solid, just ugly.

More progress:

The oil temp and oil pressure gauges are mounted. The oil pressure warning light is installed and hooked up (except it's not hooked to the sending unit because it's not easily reached behind a stealth ram (I'm still working on that part). The gauges even have lights that work and dim with the knob. The shift light is installed and fully functional. I removed the wiring harness that ran from the climate controls to the blower motor and AC compressor, etc. It's all gone and in a pile to sell for scrap. The car still starts, so it doesn't seem to miss any of it. I soldered the IAT wires properly. I moved the wideband O2 sensor display to the air vent above it's previous location and put the two new gauges under the air vents next to the pro lite oil pressure warning light. Oh, and the airbag sensors have been removed (crap, I just realized that I left the SIR warning light in the dash and put the dash panel back on and installed the headlight switch, guess I'll have to pull that apart and remove the bulb.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) ).

And, I forgot the digital camera today, so I have no updated pics for tonight.

[Mericet]

Even I could not help getting that connector on. Well, at least your project is still running!

[trackbird]

UPS brought me more toys and Jegs supplied the rest (I had to give them money, but either way, the stuff came from there).

The ground control stuff is here.

The sponsor stickers are making their way onto the car.

The power steering cooler has arrived (and I have hose for it too now).

The steering wheel has been swapped out (Do you hear that Costas?).

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[Blainefab]

I've never used the Eastwood cutter, but the one from Blair works excellent: http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cut...ld_Cutters.html

#13224 is what I have. You just have to be careful when you flip the cutter over after you break a tooth off. If you squeeze too hard you'll break the cutter. Mildly expensive, but worth their weight in gold over drilling through then having to fill.

McMaster has the same thing for $16 - spare 3/8" cutters are 4093A35 $9.06ea Use a cutting oil, and first put a divot in the middle of the spot weld with a center punch - it will keep the bit from walking around.

[StanIROCZ]

UPS brought me more toys and Jegs supplied the rest (I had to give them money, but either way, the stuff came from there).

The ground control stuff is here.

The sponsor stickers are making their way onto the car.

The power steering cooler has arrived (and I have hose for it too now).

The steering wheel has been swapped out (Do you hear that Costas?).

On the front weight jack, is there a thrust bearing between the upper mount and the bolt, or are those just big washers? I assume that it is not bolted tight, since the bolt needs to rotate relative to the mount.

I should have bought the GC kit. I’m having trouble with my rears.

[trackbird]

It's not bolted tight. But I don't see any signs of a bearing. There might be a nylon piece or something in there. I'd have to look more closely.

Thanks Alan, I'll check them out.

[axoid]

On the front weight jack, is there a thrust bearing between the upper mount and the bolt, or are those just big washers? I assume that it is not bolted tight, since the bolt needs to rotate relative to the mount.

My set don't have a bearing and were bolted tight when I got them. I assumed that the idea is that the whole hat rotates in the spring pocket. But over time the bolt will lossen up and just the threaded shaft will turn.

[StanIROCZ]

My set don't have a bearing and were bolted tight when I got them. I assumed that the idea is that the whole hat rotates in the spring pocket. But over time the bolt will lossen up and just the threaded shaft will turn.

I tried having the bolt tight on my rear jacks and it got kinda hung up when adjusting. I'm going to try keeping the bolt a little loose but use loctite on the threads.

[Shortcutsleeping]

(Do you hear that Costas?).

Check goes out today!


thanks!
Costas
cars and such...

[trackbird]

(Do you hear that Costas?).

Check goes out today!


thanks!
Costas
cars and such...

I'm glad to help out.

[slowcamaro]

It's not bolted tight. But I don't see any signs of a bearing. There might be a nylon piece or something in there. I'd have to look more closely.

Thanks Alan, I'll check them out.

If looking more closely entails disassembly..take more pictures. And if you could double check the size estimates posted in the other thread that would be awesome. Thanks for the pictures.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=9929

This post has been edited by slowcamaro: Jun 26 2007, 06:59 PM

[trackbird]

I'm not sure what they did for locktite and such, so I'm not planning to disassemble them. Actually, they are cheap enough that I can't justify making a set, but that's just me.

[slowTA]

Please take pictures once you get the front weight jackers installed.

[trackbird]

Last night we installed the driveshaft (thanks Pimpmaro for the help) and started on the rear suspension. We hit a few snags and found that the rear LCA bolts were not too cooperative. Bubba353Z (who I bought the car from) is on vacation this week and I must thank him for taking time to run out and locate some proper replacement LCA bolts today while I was at work. Thanks Mike! We did get the rear springs and weight jacks installed. The rear jacks had to be modified to clear the reinforcing "plate" on the PHB end of the axle, Pimpmaro started on this with a bench grinder and then I attacked it with a chop saw. Once the rough cut was done, Garrett (pimpmaro) cleaned it up on the bench grinder. No problem.... We spent the rest of the night staring at the car and finally we worked out the location for the remote oil filter and power steering cooler.

Today, I'm expecting a box full of goodies from hotpart.com. I've got Camber plates coming, I've got their rear LCA's (heim/heim) to go on the car. I've got some shocks coming and I'm picking up one of their new (just released) swedged chromoly heim/heim PHB's. It's not welded and that removes the issues/concerns of welding and heat treating, etc. They simply swedge the end of the tubing down enough to tap it for the rod ends. I've seen photos of it and it looks very well done. I'm waiting on mine to arrive, when it does, I'll take photos and post some pics. I'll post pics of the other goodies after they arrive as well.

Once all of that arrives, we'll have shocks to go with the springs and we can tear the front and rear down and get all of the stuff installed (brake kit, springs, rear sway bar, LCA's, etc). The car is currently on jackstands in my garage and it's prepped for me/us to get to work and see what we can accomplish tonight.

[StanIROCZ]

You work pretty fast.

Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that.

I'm planning to work on my PS cooler tonight as well. Where did you decide to place it?

[trackbird]

You work pretty fast.

8 days to Nashville (give or take), we have to work fast.

Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that.

It is a Chromoly PHB.

This has been an express "build" to make Nashville and almost everything has arrived here now. I'm still waiting on a radiator from Afco racing and some -10 hose, etc.

Power steering cooler is probably going on the radiator support that runs up the center of the radiator (but out in front of it). That shouldn't impact the radiator function much and should get good airflow. I might move it later, who knows.

[robz71lm7]

You work pretty fast.

Is that swaged PHB steel or Alum? I've been thinking about this. I went with the Aluminum Coleman design but am concerned about the bending/compression stiffness. I can grab a hold of it and it wiggles pretty good. I larger OD would fix that.

I'm planning to work on my PS cooler tonight as well. Where did you decide to place it?

In compression and tension the aluminum Coleman bar is more than stiff enough. It's on the order of only a few thousandths more deflection than a steel bar.

[AndyJ]

I can't wait to check out your car in NVille Kevin.

[trackbird]

I can't wait to check out your car in NVille Kevin.

I just hope it's not all still in boxes...... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

If it's in running shape (even if not done), I'm hoping to shake it down at an autocross this weekend. Just for testing purposes (on hard street tires).

[Mericet]

If it's in running shape (even if not done), I'm hoping to shake it down at an autocross this weekend. Just for testing purposes (on hard street tires).

Better get there by 7am or you will not get a spot!