Hello,
A friend just purchased Bob Anderson's ESP camaro. It's a 1994 Z28. Bob had a shop rebuild the motor and had a high volume oil pump installed. Now there is a momentary drop in oil pressure when you are on the breaks very hard (racing hard). The Lt1 still has the factory oil pan. The oil pressure problem needs to be fixed before it goes back racing.


My current thought is that since we need to drop the K member to get at the pump or the pan, we might as well just put in a racing pan and reset the height of the oil pump. It looks like the Moroso pan and pick up tube are the way to go. Here is the pan: http://spideraccessories.stores.yahoo.net/moroso20185.html

What do you guys think?

Are their any tricks to dropping the K member? It looks fairly straight forward.

Thanks,
Chris Shay

I had an '89 Formula that used to hit 0 when I hit the brakes. When I pulled the engine I found the oil pump pickup tube laying in the bottom of the pan. It had vibrated out of the oil pump. You may very well find exactly the same thing.

The Moroso stuff is pretty nice. I had one of their pans once and I liked how it was built and how the pick up tube is retained by the oil pump bolts.

I had a similar issue and lost a motor because of it. A stock volume pump is a requirement. You don't need all the oil on the top of the engine. I did have a high pressure spring though. And a Canton road race pan for the LT1. Problem solved. And I beat the piss out of that engine.

So is it common knowledge that the stock volume pump is required? Is is ok if the high volume pump is used with an aftermarket pan?

Does anyone know what the difference is between the Canton and Moroso oil pans?

Thanks!

That Moroso pan is a street/strip pan - their road race pan is here:

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisp...p?catcode=11955

Compare the add copy between the 2 - those essential differences are true for the Canton pan, plus the Canton fits the 4th gen.

Here's the Canton:
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bi...amp;key=15-242T

Does anyone have any comments on the stock vs. high volume oil pump? "ESPCamaro" said the stock pump is the way to go.

So is it common knowledge that the stock volume pump is required? Is the high volume pump OK when used with an aftermarket pan?


Thanks,
Chris

No man ditch the high volume pump. It's a monkey see monkey do thing-why everyone uses them.

High VOLUME means just that. The pump pumps more oil. Not necesarily at a higher pressure. You do TWO things. Lose power by parasitic drag (and as you know we are VERY limited on what we can do) and you pump oil to the top of the engine faster than it can drain back.....

Stick with either a stock pump or stock pump with high pressure spring......

You don't want a street strip pan you want a road race pan. If you have the time it might be worth it to fit a REAL crank scraper to. The Canton pan has a wannabee scraper built in but not the same thing.

Chris,

Welcome to the FFRAX forums! Tell your buddy to register here as well. Is your buddy in the Chicago/Milwaukee region? will he be autoX'ing with MR SCCA, CRSCCA, TSSCC, and/or WAI? If so, send him my way to say "HI," and i'll gladly answer any questions about ESP F-Bodies that you may have.

BTW, I just sent you an email, lets talk about it offline.

Eric Thompson

Yes, get the high pressure spring and that will help with your issues somewhat.... you most likely have some lose bearing clearances by now in the motor as well.

A crank scraper should look something like this when it is all said and done....



Lots of work to do them properly and it also helps to cut the counterweights concentric as well to make the scraper more usefull and lower the inertia of the crankshaft.

Bret

As far as a trick with the k-member, if you are not planning on droping it too far, just enough to get a pan off, keep all of your suspension bolted on including the sway bar, (this will limit how far your k-member can drop). Plus unbolt the front k-member to frame bolts first and replace them with the engine mount long bolts. Those bolts are ussually long enough that if you turn them in a few treads you will have enough clearance to take the pan off, but will still have the k-member located correctly for an easy reinstall.

Unless Bob beat the living dog crap out of that engine the bearings should be fine. It was rebuilt not that long ago (a handfull of years now, but still how many miles could it have)