I really want to start autoxing again, and our season starts in feb here. I have a 94 z28 that is serving as Daily driver duty right now, and I also want to race it. It will be my dedicated race car next year, when I buy a new Daily Driver.

Since I want to race my daily driver this season, what are some common parts to fail on the autox course? Should I keep some stock replacement parts handy? What is a "weak spot" on the fbod?

I'm gonna try and get a 2010 SS camaro as a DD next winter. Then I'll get some DOT-R tires for my 94 camaro and gut it.

If the car is stock, the weak links are the power steering pump, clutch, and alternator. The ps and alternator don't like spending much time at high rpm. The clutch is marginal with sticky tires. Drag racing is harder on the drivetrain than autox, but you can break it if you try really hard, but that isn't really necessary. With 315s, hubs wear very fast.

Excellent reply...short and to the point.

I would add Optispark, especially if you are still on the original one. BTW these are now over $500 for the original GM part.

Also, assuming the car is "stock" and you want to keep it that way, get some good brake pads for those lousy LT1 front brakes, or, consider the upgrade to the LS1 brakes (98+)...I think the stock rules allow the upgrade.

Bock

The stock rules do not allow LS1 upgrade. If a car didn't come from the factory in that configuration, it's not legal. There were no LT1 cars with LS1 brakes.

I would also suggest to replace the torque arm mount and trans mount right off. Check them often!!

The biggest thing I used to beat up on my thirdgen when it was a daily driver/autoX car was diffs. If you have a spare rear around or keep up with it.

-Tim

I'd say the biggest pitfall is not knowing what class you ultimately want to race in. Without knowing the class (F-stock, ESP, Street Modified, C-prepared, etc.) you could unknowingly make an upgrade that could quickly put you in a class that you may not have anticipated and would be up against stiffer competition (from a car preparation standpoint). Example, you gut the interior (truly gut it) and you'll probably end up in C-prepared, which isn't a bad thing as long as you know that going in. If you don't realize that, you could be overwhelmed by the competition and disappointed in the potentially low car turnouts in the local region you run in. I'd start by checking the rulebook and figure out where you ultimately want to settle in.

Until then, proceed with caution on the upgrades and have fun.

Great replys. Thanks.

I have a few minor mods, and I'd like to run in ESP class I believe. I'll be on street tires for the first season.

My PS pump is only a few months old. It's an Oreilly replacement part. I have 25% underdrive pulleys to try and slow it down and save it.
I was told the alternator was new when I bought the car. It prolly has 25,000ish miles on it.
I have no idea how old the clutch is. I will be prepared to replace it though.
I have the stock clutch style rear end with 3.23's. If it goes poop, I'd like to replace it with a zexel torsen HD unit from SLP. Anyone like those, or dislike them? I had one on another camaro of mine and it seemed to work fine. It also didnt' have clutches to wear out.
My torque arm and tranny mount are brand new. They might not be ESP compatible though. It's a UMI piece that bolts the torque arm to the tranny xmember.

If you are going to upgrade the diff, think about the Torsen T2R, but take this with a grain of salt. Apparantly there has been a rash of bad quality with these diffs and many people have broke them. Mine is about 3 years old now, and it has not broke. Also I have read that there has been some new changes to this diff to make it stronger. Do a search on this site for Diffs. There has been alot of leanings over the last couple of years.

Front swaybar mounts. I seem to break about one per year. Buy some spares or weld up some extra support. Or, buy some of the sano blainefab pieces from our very own Alan Blaine.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...l=swaybar+mount