Knees are shot. Like ice cream too much to loose weight, means the obvious answer is to install a lift.

So, looking at the "reasonable" end of 9K lb, symmetrical lifts, what's the short comings of the following brands?

http://www.naautoequipment.com/2-post-lifts.html


http://www.derekweaver.com/update/products...9A_2_Post_Lifts


http://www.eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-ETP/MTP-9F


http://www.nationalautotools.com/nt9-9000-...e-lift-p-2.html

Mitch, you may want to check out this thread: http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showt...;highlight=lift

also here: http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showt...;highlight=lift

Cant speak to any specific brand except the one I own (Rotary) which is not one of your listed options. I am very happy with mine, however it was quite a bit more $$ than what you are looking at, and it was installed by a dealer. You may be planning to install it yourself.

They all look similar to me. Are you sure you mean "symmetrical" vs "asymmetrical"?

I don't want to start giving advice if you are already sure about what you want.

bock

The listed lifts I can get locally and not spend a few hundred on shipping costs.

Use will be occasional, not daily ... probably not even weekly, until all my "friends" find out. So commercial quality is not high on the priority list.

Symmetrical because I'm only using it for my TA and not my crew cab truck .

And I'm looking for overhead pan and not a floor pan.

I have ~126" of room for lift and car.

Cody! ... I just put 1 and 1 and 1 together. Doh!

Thanks for the links. CC.com makes my head spin. If those guys spent as much time posting about searching and just answer the damn question it would save a lot of electrons.

Searching is great, but there are a crap load of dead links and dead photos in each of those links. so quality information is tough to ferret out.

Based on my experience, i think you will be happier with an "Asymmetric lift" unless there is some sort of space or locational issue.

You will likely find that the lift will be eventually be used for the truck, and a lot of other things (like maybe the neighbor's minivan for example). I put a 4wd Suburban up on mine all the time. Even though it has a 9000 lb rating, you can tell the lift is straining as compared to the Camaro.

How tall are you? If you are over 5'6" then 126 inches will give you a very low installed height and likely cause you to have to crouch while under the car...this is a real PITA. Better than crawling or a creeper, but still a PITA. Get a hard hat....

One thing about my lift that is annoying is that once you lower one of our cars even a little, the swing arms no longer go under the car without first jacking the car for clearance...another PITA you may want to try to avoid. Its manageable but annoying.

Bock

Interesting info ...

It has a 76" of lift, meaning I can raise the car about 6'. The car sits about ~50" from floor to roof peak. I have 8" I-Beam that the outer post will sit under and it is 126" from the floor. The beam is angled up so where the car will actually be, is another couple feet, which I figure will give me a realistic 4-6" of clearance.

I am 6' tall and now I'm a little concerned about the feasibility of this. Does my math sound about right?

Also, the arms on one of the lifts only needs 3" of clearance and has some sort of flip up device to make contact with the chassis.

Thanks for all the advice ... keep it coming

Symm vs Asymm ... I won't have the overhead clearance for my truck to lift it very far off the ground. Enough to rotate tires and simple stuff only. I rarely start the race car, just push it around.

I haven't worked with any of those brands, but my one piece of advice would be to run the lines up over the lift as opposed to them being on the floor. Having them on the floor is a major pita. You have to sweep everything around them, you trip on them, you have to push the cars over them, etc.

I can certainly see that and considered that.

A decision I have to make is if I want to live with the inconvenience of the floor plate or inconvenience of altering ideal placement due to overhead obstruction.

Mitch-I don't have time to look at them right now but I wouldn't be surprised if they are all the same lift made in China.

Hey Mitch.

I have an old assemetrical lift with the floor cables. It is great to be able to open the doors, but the cables on the floor do suck.

You might also want to look at how low the arms are when they are on the ground. You need to have thin ones, or have the screw pads (sorry, I don't know the real names) that are thin.

Many on the screw parts of the pads screw the pads up a lot, but they are too long to slide under a low race car. It sucks having to put the car on blocks just to get the lifting arms under it.

Thanks for the nuances ... I'm trying not to go off half-cocked ...

This is the one I'm leaning towards.
http://www.nationalautotools.com/nt9-9000-...e-lift-p-2.html

Pros:
It has the highest lift of the other "budget" lifts and is the cheapest.

Cons:
It also requires the most ceiling clearance

I know I would be hating life 5 minutes after I got the floor pan version. But to use the overhead design, I will have to significantly remodel and rethink how my shop is laid out.

I need a bigger shop! 24x54 just isn't big enough any more.

I had a 2 post symmetric floor cable lift at the old shop - I never thought it was a big deal having the stuff on the floor, and most of the cars that went on the lift were pushers. I found it on Craigslist, paid $1500 for a nearly new 9K# Bend-Pak from a small shop that was downsizing. Probably going to be more of that going on.

Do you know for sure that your slab is thick enough? FWIW, here's a install/operation manual from Bend-Pak:
http://www.bendpak.com/files/215_1491777197.pdf

You know, I thought that too about a symetrical lift. I very seldom start and drive in my little shop. Mostly push. It's a neighbor thing.

I've been watching CL and just haven't found anything in the last few weeks. I began shopping eBay for local pick up stuff before Thanksgiving. Rotary seems to be buying up a lot of the smaller lift vendors.

Much to the chagrine of my contractor, I had beams dug for my foundation and made him use 1/2" rebar (yes, 1/2" ... I already had it) instead of wire mesh.

http://www.americanautomotiveequipment.com...s-p/tp09a-d.htm

The over or under on sale for 1300... I got mine yesterday. =)

how about a lift that is both symmetrical and asymmetrical?


Hanmecson 10 VSM 10,000 LBS 2 POST

most lifts require a 144" clearance... unless you have to go w/ low clearance models.

should consider something similar to this: http://www.adgforward.com/directlift/hr8000.htm

here's a link for te US side: http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/DIRECT...ft_p/hr8000.htm
this will clear too: http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Auto_L...autoal29kfp.htm

That one is pretty much the same as the one I posted. The post height on mine is 9'7" for the floor model.

Thanks for all the links ... keep them coming. I'm learning a lot.

I also found this lift ...

http://www.pantherlifts.com/Panther/index....amp;prevstart=0

What I am finding is that many of these vendors/manufacturers are very flexible on pricing, willing to price match in many cases.

The fine print is interesting as well. For instance, the American Automotive lift shortbus linked to has a $50 pick up fee and has to charge me Texas sales tax. Out the door is over $1400.

The Panther lift I refernced above, has no pick up fee and is $1350 out the door.

Still scanning the local Craiglist and haven't found anything that I would go with. The ones in the D/FW, Houston and Austin areas are either more expensive than I can get for new or in need of repair.

I'm not in a huge hurry, but I do have a couple weeks off coming up and could use that time to get the thing installed and working and do the necessary remodeling inside my shop.

Yeah, pretty much what I was finding Mitch. I am Ohio so I was going to get my bottom patted by anyone selling lifts.

Again, mitch this panther is pretty much identical to the one I have. Right down to the welds and hydro lines placement and adapter holders.

One thing I did not know before hand but know now... Look at how the lock release mechanisms are set and unset.

The panther (and all the the "cheap" ones) are individual unlocks.... Hard to explain. In short to lower the vehicle you'll raise it a little (this is normal to all lifts) and then pull a little cords that unsets the locks on each side. Then lower the car.

The expensive lifts you just raise the car a little, then pull a lever that unlocks both sides and then lower the car. The lever is located right near the lowering lever.

If you look closely at all the pics you'll see (or not see) the extra lever.

Like I said I did not know this before and may not be a deal breaker for you. It is/was not for me. (Of course I noticed when the thing was bolted to the floor and I was pouring in hydraulic fluid.)

I just took it for granted all the unlocking mechanisms were the same. If this means something to you then tip-tapping on my keyboard just now was a good waste of company production time. Cheers.

Also, installation is easy. I'll take like 2 days. 3 if you are like me and have only one friend to help.

I realized early on about the dual locking ... mainy because the $1000 difference in price has that as a big marketing ploy.
I don't see it as a huge issue either.

2-3 days???? Does that include concrete cure time? I don't see anything more than 6-8 hours with help.

As you can imagine I did not have much help.

A friend came over for a limited time to help put the posts in place. (Yes, my one friend and even he does not like me enough to stay for the duration.)
And I had a small hammer drill for the first drilling attempt... then rented a monstrous Hilti.

Other then that no it does not take much time. I have only worked on it a little each day after work. (Blatant excuse)

I am kinda stuck right now because I need a huge set of snap ring pliers. Mine are like GI Joe sized.

We were 2 doing the whole install and it took us a day for my lift... I don't see it taking so long, provided your cement is good, and you have all the required tools, enough drill bits, anchors, etc.
What takes a bit of time/patience is the alignment and straightening/leveling of the poles.

This is the one I went with, too ... no sales tax, no pick up fee and was able to work a deal where it's installed, all for $1550. I have to deal with the electrical, but everything else is done.

All the others after everything was computed, were $1350-1450 at a loading dock.

I should have a working lift Sunday evening.

Congrats & good luck on the install.

Awesome. Good luck.

HAHAHAH. Suddenly it is harder to laugh at me for taking so long, huh?

Crew arrived at 7pm ... done by 9:30.

Good for you!

Putting the finishing touches on the lift. Had some overhead clearance issues, but figured out a way to work around the limitations.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBYkay_ruek

THAT is perfect! Now, I too, can consider a lift for my garage!

...all you need to do is make the sides with sliding extensions so that they fill in the gaps for those frigid California winters and Death Valley like summers...and I am IN!

HAH! that is awesome.

How does your lift work for you?

Mine is awesome!

The race car is about 1/2" too low for the front arm to swing into position. So, I made some 2x12 runners for the car to roll on.

Had a fubared fitting and it spewed hydraulic fluid every where. But the company responded quickly and replaced it.

I'm having to completely re-arrange my shop to accomodate this sucker. I've had to come to terms with my insanity about keeping "stuff". Why do I keep the emmissions and EGR stuff from my 98TA that sold 2 years ago?

I have the same low clearance issue. How long are your runners? Are they just for the front wheels?

On mine I had to have the front arms swung forward and dive on some 2x6s. I might find someway to have cleats that hold runners in place but still allow the runner to be removed. I am not sure I have it all worked out. So... I'll need to cruise the a hardware store.

All my fittings were fine though. Good thing to know the company did something about it. No issues with mine. My buddy wired it up and replaced the little pig tail that the lift came with. He also went though the connections to make sure they were all good -- two of them came out of the crimp connections. He also wired in a 30 amp flip switch above the motor.

I did not anticipate just how much room a lift takes up. I am glad I have it though.

I had some 2x12 lumber and cut 2 ~40" long and then back cut one end of each at a 45* angle so that it snugged against the plate that covers the hydraulic line and the EQ cables.
Not real happy with that as it clutters the floor. Like I said all I need is 1/2" or less. Might look into something more permenant on the pad or take a grinder to the car. It snags on the boxed section of the front SFC.

I too removed the pigtail and wired straight into the box. In actuality, I brought 6g cable on a 50A breaker to a box just below the motor assembly and installed a 22V plug for my welder/plasma cutter. I then ran a 10g pig tail from that box up and into motor assembly box amd used wire nuts.

As long as I'm not welding full tilt AND running the lift at the same time, I should be OK.

I also ran a dedicated 20A 110 to a quad plug box, also mounted on the lift beam. I'd like to plumb air over there as well.

Nice. I did not realize that you also got the floor leveled model. I did too.

My lift is closer to on side of the garage then the other and that wall has 3 outlets right around the length of the car. I want to route some airlines too but I'll need to have one project at a time. When I do the air lines I'll put the noisy ass air compressor outside in a lean to or something and just have the air line pipe coming in.

I'll probably make some runners like yours. I think I'll have some sort of bolt to the floor method like a giant recessed nut in the floor and the bolt will fit in a counter sunk hole. I don't know how all that is going to work out yet.

My garage is 2 cars wide and 3 cars deep (with some extra room left to right and front and back). But with the lift it might fit 4 cars. Work benches and junk on the floor take up space.

I have the lift in about the middle off to one side. It is near the drain, plenty of power etc. I have a 50 amp welding outlet at the front.... but no welder so I think I am set for a while. It is much to far away if I had to weld something while the car was on the lift though.