Alright to anyone who didn't see my thread in the Chassis section http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=13326

After some much appreciated help from Sam and Trackbird and other members I've compiled my list:

Shocks http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...1&ModelID=4

Springs http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...4&ModelID=4

Panhard bar http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php...9&ModelID=4

although for the record Sam recommended the watts link but I would've had to ditch something else for it's sake . . . so panhard it is . . .

and C5 brakes http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10105-01

minus the brackets which I will get from a forum member . . .

Sound good to everyone ? ? ?

Thank you for all your advice and help

I'm probably gonna start ordering next week so speak now or forever hold you peace . . .

You'd save some money getting the brake parts from Team Chev

Never spend the same money twice.

I'd try to reshuffle and get the Watts in. Skip the PHR, go with 4/3 shocks, and eat Ramen noodles for lunch for awhile. The 3rd gen rear Konis are arguably a better shock, though the 4th gen is easier to adjust.

Just to elaborate on Mark's point, big brake kits are now legal in E Street Prepared, but they must bolt to the stock mounts. C5 brakes don't qualify. Maybe you don't care, but....

you might check out these shocks
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?c...products_id=364

jb

Do LS1 brakes and get the Watt's setup. If the 4th gen CMC guys can RACE on them for years, you can do a few open track events with them.

.02

Interesting, I didn't know they made shocks for the thirdgens... hmmm. I really don't know why they're shortened though, I really see no reason for that except in the back, in which case I'd run a shorter shaft and a stock length body to keep a stiff rear spring seated. Whats funny is with 1" shorter struts the bump rubbers they show on the shafts are just going to be making contact on the camber plates when the LCA has bottoms out on the k-member.

If you haven't done a lot of track time I'd vote for the ls1 brakes with upgraded pads, you're probably not going to need the nice brakes for a while.

some C5 kits do use the stock mounts - LG's is one i know of.

Ls1 calipers are not as stiff as C5/C6. They do flex. However, I think a lot of LS1 caliper issues are caused by running an inadequate pad. Start with a mild street pad (including HPS), get it hot enough to fade and/or glaze, and you will have to use a lot more pressure to stop. That does not include fluid fade, which can make the pedal suck but won't increase the pressure.

As far as the C5 brakes go I'm kinda decided on that (i'd rather have to much brake than not enough) and as far as using the factory mounts I don't care . . . . this is a some what of a daily driver that I just want to handle better and hopefully get to a road course here and there.

Saving money I have no problem with . . . I just posted that link to demonstrate what I was getting . . .

No problem going with the Koni 3's hopefully I'll be able to buy them from Sam pre-set cause I would have no idea what I was doing . . .

But that would free up enough money to switch to the watts link . . . Is this really that much better than a panhard bar? Honestly one of the reasons I decided on the panhard bar is cause I found the watts link kinda intimidating cause Sam was talking about adjustable sway bars and stuff and again I have no idea what I'm doing

Is there any kind of recommended reading or something for this, I know the best way to learn is by doing and I'm working on it but at least reading up a little bit would give me a base to work from . . . .

Thanks again for any and all help guys . . .

Only thing I would really change is get coilover sleeves and spring jacks so you can use cheap, universal race springs. Why lock yourself into one rate, height etc.? (albeit a good one) The panhard you could probably sell in the future if you decided to go watts link. Anyways I'd go with a mild steel panhard bar if you can find one in the same wall thickness. CrMo/4130 does not gain you a thing on a panhard bar on our cars. The panhard bar is so long and slender that it will fail in buckling. The buckling strength of that column is based on elastic modulus of steel which is the same for carbon steel and 4130.

Sorry for the rant, just tired of seeing chrome moly panhard bars being pushed.

You'd be surprised what the extra travel will do. Some positive and negative, but those struts with the shortened bodies for that price are a steal. It cost me $400+ to revalve Koni SA struts and it would've been more on top of that to have them shortened. So figure $600+ not counting the core valve of used struts.